David Greyling

Also saw the new routes. This can't be easy or cheap, does anyone know how we can support these guys with time, muscle or dollars?

Now that I wasn't aware of, I'll check it out when I get home this evening. Shot for the heads up.

Great, thanks to everyone. I think the initial solution at least is to change out the FD for a sram 2x10. Just a quick question, will the combination of a shimano slx shifter and a sram 2x10 FD (as per standard spec on the specialized) sort the issue? I know in a perfect world you'd probably change the shifters but as the RD is an XT I think sticking with Shimano shifters is advisable. Many thanks in advance.

Hi guys Thanks so much for all the input. To confirm the following: Brand new chain and chainring, both have done 32km on mostly tar with about 100m of dirt just to test it after coming back from the shop. I double checked the chain this morning and it doesn't even get to the 0.5 wear mark, it's literally brand spanking new. To be fair to the shop, the issue existed prior to taking it to them so it is in no way the fault of the guys there. The FD, as S14Phoenix spotted is a 9 speed (I'd forgotten that) but my assumption was that paired to a 10sp shifter and with careful limit setting that it should be fine. However, that could very well be the issue, might try source a sram 2x10 FD and test it, thanks for picking that up. @The real MJ - could also be a problem actually but I don't personally know. the shell is a 73mm and the BB is installed with no spacers on the drive side and a single 2.5mm spacer on the non-drive side. from what I can read on various forums this seems fine. It was installed that way at the shop too so I guess it's correct. Again, thanks a lot to everyone for inputting, this thing is driving me nuts so your help is greatly appreciated.

The bike originally came specced with a Sram X7 front derailleur and shimano generic 2x10 shifters. I have now changed to shimano slx 2x10 shifters and a shimano slx front derailleur if that helps at all...

Finally got the pics (sorry about the orientation, uploading them sent it haywire) The pics are chronological, you'll see the chain get picked up, sent onto the top of the teeth and then stay there as the crank rotates. on the stand it usually drops back into the chainring, but you can imagine how this ends on the trail, usually with a derailled chain and an unhappy face. to note regarding limits, the outer limit is set as close as possible, even an eighth of a turn more and the chain will not be picked up to the big ring. the limit set like this is the only thing stopping the chain from derailling every time.

I'll take some pics later to share. BDF, that makes sense. to be honest I assumed (yes, stupid I know) that the chainring spacing and therefore shifter and FD spacing would match but it's entirely possible that it doesn't. Forgive the description, but when I ran the shift slowly it on a stand it almost seemed that the angle induced on the chain would make it impossible for it to seat on the chainring. I'll take pics and share later...

Hi All Thanks a lot for the input. To answer the questions to date: Robodog - Thanks, I will likely to that. BDF - FD is 1mm above the closest chainring tooth and outer plate is parallel with the big chainring. Actually changed the FD too, went from high mount dual pull to a low mount down pull, prior one was the sram X5, new one is the SLX. Currently running all 10speed, 10speed SLX chain on 10 Speed SLX cassette with 10 Speed Sram crankset. Spoke101 - No, only the big ring, but the small ring looks like it was born yesterday so i'm not worried about that GrahamS2 - Chainrings are correct (small bump oriented under the right crank arm and the Fd is the correct height i believe. Patchelicious - There is always one... Dirtypot - agreed, but as far as i can tell all of those requirements are met. Also agree with the 1x10 clutch comment, it was an experiment to try and patch a solution in the short term. long run would be clutch for sure. My theory for what it is worth is that the BB threads are slightly out of line with the frame, causing too much angle of the chainring. the chain rides on top of the teeth with the teeth sitting in the miniscule gap between the roller and the plates of the chain. I cannot replicate it on my other bikes even if I try... Thanks again for all the help, greatly appreciated.

Hi guys I need some help please. My girlfriend's bike has an issue that I have no reasonable explanation for. It is a Specialized Jett 29er hardtail size small. Groupset is currently XT rear derailleur, SLX front derailleur, SLX shifters, Sram X7 crankset with a sram GXP BB. I have replaced the chain, cassette, front chainring, front derailleur, bottom bracket and both shifters in the last two months so this is fresh equipment. Note, the issue began before all these changes, while the new kit made a difference the route issue is still there. Essentially, when shifting to the big chainring (irrespective of position on the cassette) the chain rides up on top of the teeth of the chainring momentarily (anywhere between 45deg and 180deg of the rotation) before settling into the chainring correctly. this results in at best in a click and slight jump in the chain and therefore feedback through the pedals. at worst, it derails the chain to the outside. I've had a bike shop I trust look at it. They have done their best but essentially what we are doing is using the front derailleur as a chain retention device. Once the chain is riding on top of the teeth it's a 50/50 chance of it settling into position or derailling so we've set the front derailleur to try and stop the derailling like a chainguide - not the ideal situation but workable for now. I even tried running a 1x10 with a Kalbo NW chainring and the chain derailled (to the outside). I checked chain length and although it is not a clutch derailleur we were not riding bumpy or tech track at all. to note, the only thing that has remained constant in the entire setup is the rear derailleur and the crankset (and obviously the frame) I have my own theory, but I'd appreciate input from anyone who has experienced this, or anyone who has a good idea of what/ how to diagnose the actual problem. many thanks in advance David

I prefer these for my trail running. Every now and then you have to get off and push over a rocky section, or get back on the trail after running out of talent. I find the grip on these to be sufficient for these running activities. http://fiveten.com/images/jreviews/13874_5026-impact-teamblack-01-web-1361556996.jpg The other shoes on this thread look a bit light, I'd be interested to see how the guys here manage their pedal pins in such thin soles. Haven't seen any SPDs on the thread though which means everyone here rides flats - FTW....

Sleeveless shirt check - thousands of triathletes cannot be wrongArm warmers/UV sleeves check - ditto above, it is particularly critical to ensure exposed skin of the shoulders between said warmers and sleeveless shirt. This is for aero-ness, obviously. In fact, for the sake of efficiency, a skin-suit would be better.Knee-pads check - preferably the cool ones we used to get as kids when rollerblading was the awesomest thing on earth.Compression socks check - thousands of triathletes cannot be wrong, and they also tuck nicely into the bottom of the knee-pads for even moar improved aero-ness-ness. apparently they also help with recovery so you can ensure you make it to the beer tent after your last special stage.Most importantly, if anyone has something to say about what you're wearing instead of talking smack about the run, or offering you a beer, then they are probably at the wrong event. Keep it chilled, do what you want, have fun. Comments regarding baggies saving you and your kit from tearing are perfectly valid however, maybe baggies over a skinsuit with all of the above....

Hi Bat-ass I'm riding one, just did Sani2C on it. As with most bike review opinions it starts with "it depends". The slack head angle, 120mm fork and handling oriented geometry make it an absolute blast through single track and on descents. It is no epic or vipa though, you will pay the price of your fun when the road turns up or when you're trucking along flat (boring) dirt roads. That's not to say it can't climb or roll out long flat roads, it just won't be as fast or as efficient as the 29er steeds that will be passing you on those sections. I love the bike, but if you're leaning towards marathon or xc racing there are much better options. If you're looking for a bit of swiss-army knife of a bike then the zula 27.5 would be a great options. As long as you're happy to climb a little slower. I'm in a bit of a conundrum myself at this point as I'm trying to work out whether or not to take the marathon racing or stage racing a bit more seriously. If I do then I will definitely switch to one of the marathon specific 29er options (epic, vipa, anthem, fourstroke, etc.), the speed difference is significant. In the meantime I'll try very hard to wipe the smile off my face as I push the zula through single track like Hakahana, Van Gaalens, Karkloof or Cascades... Hope that helps, if you have any specific questions let me know.

I know it takes up space, but some detol waterless hand wash in the small package you can buy at dischem is often useful. Fairly small and in a hydration pack is negligible size wise.

"Spend a bit less on your bicycle so that you can save money for a rainy day" ~ there, unreasonable logic...

First weekend December for me, sounds like a great idea.