Nuffy

Little little bit at a time. It's very easy to cut too much off, and then there's no going back. It all comes down to personal preference. I have a jump bike and a XC bike and both bars are 710 mm wide. Any narrower and I feel proper dodgy on the descents. But I don't know any other XC riders who are even close to that, so I'm clearly not normal in that respect. The narrower your bars are, the more twitchy your handling will be. I like having wider bars for big, sweeping carves through the singletrack and good stability. There's been a recent trend for downhillers to use super-wide bars (the Truvativ Boobar is 780 mm wide). So a lot also depends on your riding style ? wider for DH, narrower for XC, in general.

Cool, thanks for the advice! I was hoping I wouldn't have to start grinding or cutting (that's 13 bolts to do!), but maybe that's the cheapest option. I'll keep looking for now.

So I have three bikes, and they're all singlespeeds. I'm using normal crank bolts with the single rings up front, but am having to make a plan with washers and things to get them to clamp properly. It's really not ideal, and I'm wondering if I can get shorter bolts from somewhere. It has been suggested that I just file them down, but for three bikes?! I've looked at two shops already. Is it worth trying a few more, or am I likely to be met with blank looks there as well?

It wasn't the World Champs, just round 1 of the World Cup series. So no world champ yet. (The world champ titles, eg. Burry's mentioned above, are from last year.)

Gap jumps on a fixie? My my.

Yep. Obviously they need to be the right size and have the same bolt pattern - standard six-bolt - but any brand will work.

There is a bit of singletrack stuff near Rhodes' Mem, towards Newlands Forest. Newlands forest itself is out of bounds to bikes, but nearer Rhodes' Mem there is some pretty tight, technical stuff if you're prepared to look for it. I've also heard that there is some stuff on Signal Hill, but haven't really explored there myself.

I'm not sure of the numbers, but I run mine pretty hard. I weigh about 85kg and like to be sure I don't pinch flat.

I was riding the skate park in George last weekend and my back tire just popped one side completely off the rim (while riding on the flat). The tube bulged out, but thankfully didn't burst. I put it all back again, and rode a bit more. Then in the car on the way home the same thing happened again. I had been riding the George downhill before hand without any problems, and it's never happened to me before. I'm using a Mavic EX721 rim with a Michelin Comp 16 tire (I think - it's the Michelin 2,3 inch version of the Highroller), both in good condition. The only explanation I can think of is that I had been using the same tube with a much larger diameter WTB 2,4 inch Motoraptor tire, and it seems to have stretched. It looked a little too big for the Michelin tire. But could that really be the problem? I checked and checked again that the tire was properly seated, so I'm confidant that I didn't just fit it wrong. Any thoughts?

I saw a Juicy Bleed kit at the shop the other day for almost R300. It seems a bit much for a couple of syringes with jobbies on the ends. Is there any alternative? I know with some other brands it's possible to use a normal syringe with a bit of hose, but it looks like the Juicys have quite a specific little bleed port. Anyone got a Juicy bleed kit they're not using and want to get rid of?

I had a similar thing happen to me once. Luckily it never broke, but it did make removing the back wheel and the chain very difficult. I think the chain wasn't quite tight enough to hold it properly in place, and with a little bump it caught the teeth of the next sprocket up. I think as long as there is a larger sprocket there, flex in the chain and bumping and moving around will mean there is always the posibility of it moving to the side just enough to catch a tooth of the next sprocket, and then it'll just get pulled up.

That's an awesome setup. I also ride a single speed that I use for everything, from downhill and jumps to commuting and a bit of XC/trail riding. I love it. Mine is a steel frame, though.

Okay, perhaps my wording wasn't so good. Even if the bike isn't upside down, if the front wheel is raised high enough the reservoir becomes inverted, so that if there is a small air bubble it gets pushed into the system when the lever is pulled. As I understand it, it's fine for there to be a little air in the reservoir in normal hydraulic systems. It allows for fluid expansion from heat, etc., and the design means that this air usually wouldn't enter the active system. However, the flip-flop design of the juicy levers means that the breather hole isn't at the highest point, and when the front wheel is raised the hole is at the lowest point and fluid gets pushed out. What I'm trying to work out is if this is a design fault and the brakes shouldn't be used upside down, or if the fluid leakage is normal and I have nothing to worry about. And I'm trying to find out if a little leakage requires a bleed of the system. Or something like that. Just give me answers!

I've got a set of Juicy 5s. I've noticed, usually after turning the bike upside down, that some fluid escapes from the little breather hole on the reservoir cap. I asked someone at a bike shop about it, and he said that you shouldn't squeeze the brakes when the bike is upside down or suspended by the front wheel, as the air bubble in the reservoir is at the top and gets pushed into the system, and fluid gets pushed out the hole. I understand what he's talking about, but does this mean that I shouldn't use my brakes when I wheelie? It's also rather inconvenient to not be able to use the brakes when pushing the bike around with the front wheel up. Does a little fluid leakage like this necessetate a bleed of the system?

I'd say also check the crank/BB interface. If there is a little bit of play there it could also make a noise. If you've done some riding with play in it, it could wear badly and cause constant problems. Check that everything is tight and clean, as CaptainDura says. One of my old bikes made a lot of noise from the BB, and I was told it was the aluminium crank bonding to the BB axle. The noise eventually stopped, but then I couldn't get the crank off. A little thread tape around the axle should fix this, but just check that it stays tight once you ride it again. You can usually see marks on the axle if it has started to bond to the crank. I wouldn't panic about the frame just yet. I think bottom bracket noise is pretty common, and if you check it early and make sure that everything is clean, well greased, and nice and tight, I doubt you'll have major long-term problems. Good luck.

I have horizontal dropouts on my frame, and I've been using a regular quick release on my rear hub. It hasn't caused major hassles, but I do keep bending the skewer. I have a chain tensioner on the drive side only. I'd like to change to a solid bolt on axle, but I have Novatec sealed bearing hubs and so can't just walk into a shop and buy one. I was quoted R400 - R500 to have one machined up. Does anyone have any suggestions? Might fitting a chain tensioner on the other side fix the problem? Is it worth paying the money for a bolt on axle?

Oooh, I would love to go. It'll take some graft to get together the money, though. Do you think we'd manage sponsorship? Oh yeah, and I'm actually a Zimbo, so wouldn't be representing SA.

It's called the Stiletto. The term "cruiser" is also used to describe BMXs with 24 inch wheels, so don't be too surprised if you hear of a cruiser class at a BMX race. But hey, wouldn't it be fun to try and race some of these choppers round a BMX track? On second thoughts, maybe you wouldn't even get over the jumps.

It looks like even Giant make one: http://www.the-bike-shop.com/STILLETO_ANGLE.jpg

Righto, thanks guys. I'm off the bike with an injury, so maybe this is a good chance to strip the frame a do a proper assesment and treatment. It looks like that Boeshield stuff may be just the ticket. The frame is quite new, so I doubt the rust has caused any permanent or structural damage.

I have a 4130 cro-mo jump frame, and after taking bits off to service I've noticed signs of rust on the inside of the frame. Should I be concerned about this? I'm careful not to get water into the frame, but with all the rain etc. it's almost impossible to prevent it completely. Should I look at blocking the extra holes (brake boss mounts, breather holes on chainstays, etc)? What can be done about rust that's already there? It's impossible to get a good look inside the stays, for instance, to establish the extent of the rusting. Any advice would be appreciated.

I have a Novatec rear hub, with sealed cartridge bearings. I've taken the freewheel off and regreased it, but discovered when putting it all back that the whole thing tightens up when I tighten the quick release, to the extent that it behaves like a fixed wheel. I have to undo the drive-side nut thing a few turns to get it to spin freely again. I'm worried that it might work loose and dirt will get in the freewheel (and it might wear badly if it sits out of place). Surely I should be able to tighten it all nicely without it affecting the spinning? Any advice would be appreciated.

I've always ridden platforms. Initially it may have been due to budget constraints, but now it's what I choose. I ride a single-speed jump bike, but use it for everything from commuting to a bit of XC, and the jumps and DH. I've also raced some BMX back home (in Zim), and all the guys there are clipped in. That made me think about it, but unless I get a race BMX at some stage I don't think I'm going to try it. The guys all swap to platforms to hit the dirt jumps anyway.

BigBen, I'd be interested to hear if your fix works. Let us know, will you? And sorry about the fall! Mind you, an excuse to live off dairy products would suit me. TNT1, it's only a pleasure!

Yep. Here it is from another angle: http://i1.pinkbike.com/photo/1420/pbpic1420411.jpg The guards are just plastic shields that cover the front, and do not wrap around the whole leg. Some other points to consider: Upside-down forks are disc brake only - there is nowhere to attatch V-brakes. Regular forks (ie not upside-down) can have a brace that joins the two lower legs to each other (see my earlier picture of the Fox 40). This helps with the stiffness and makes sure the two legs move together, meaning there is less of a need for a strong hub. That said, GoLefty is probably right in saying that the upside down style is potentially stiffer and stronger, if made right. This will probably necessitate big, heavy machining, and so I don't see it taking off for XC forks anytime soon.