DangerDave

Have a look at Saris bike racks, www.bicyclepower.co.za

You will have to change it every time you take your pt wheel off and want to use the CPU as a bike computer vs a power meter.

Then u need to change the set up from a power tap to a bike computer, this can be done in power agent under configure device, download the latest power agent off www.cycleops.com products software

Have you set the speed / cadence sensor as a speed sensor? Open up the battery cover and remove the battery ensure it is set to speed, re learn and try find again

The powercal will require a power meter or an indoor cycle or a power beam ( the a frame trainer with power) and as mentioned the calibration takes 20min, once calibrated the power meter will not be needed till the next recalibration that may be with in 4-6 weeks, as you would do if you were training on power and required your FTP to be assessed. As for heart rate drift due to a multi stage event like the epic, CycleOps have made it clear that the powercal is an entry level system and if you want 1,5% accuracy then buy a power tap, this system is ideal for the average cyclist who wants to improve their time and wants to be able to track their performance though systems such as the fit track and performance management charts in WKO systems. The idea of a PowerCal assessment has raised its head with the guys from BPT and I am sure they will offer such a facility as for pricing this has not been finalised.

well done HEman!!! finally a Power Meter for someone who wants to put value to training, i am sure we all want to!!! there are 4 Power Cals in South Africa along with a Joule GPS and Joule 1.0 the guys at Bicycle Power (www.bicyclepower.co.za) have them and are putting them through final testing. the PowerCal is an interesting toy and requires a 20min test made up of a 5min warm up and 5 x 3min efforts each harder than the previous! pricing is expected to be under R2000.00 pricing on the New Joule is expected around the R1900.00 mark. more details on the web page listed above!!!

if you have a gamin 500 you are half way there, go for a Power Tap it IS the Cheapest ar R8 895.00 for a Pro+ built into a Mavic Open Pro wheel for free!!!

the Guys at CycleOps do NOT suggest you use a shifting spanner, buy the tool for R75.00 if lost, but all new hubs bought though Bicycle Power Trading should come with the hub wrench!! battery cost is R20.00 per battery (x2) and should last between 3-6months!!! great value for R20.00!!!!

easy, it does not matter how high or low the systems read as long as they are accurate, you do not want a system that is not accurate, accuracy at the moment is as follows: SRM Science @ +/-0.5% Power Tap @ +/- 1.5% SRM Pro @ +/- 2% QuarQ @ +/- 2% think may even be a little less Garmin, unknown I bike ??????? Polar ??????? a little note to go with all this, Power Meters do go wrong, SO make sure you buy a unit this is supported locally and has a track record for being able to support the product, i.e. SRM and Power Tap. Power Tap can fix your system with in a day!!!

Ever wondered how many meters you are climbing while doing an indoor workout? the guys at Bicycle Power Trading have, they have also come up with a cool way of helping you work this out. Have a look!!!! http://www.bicyclepower.co.za/Home/tabid/59/EntryId/1/Indoor-Climbing-Calculator.aspx

PowerTap is the only real way to go, contact them on 011-023-2777

the local agents, bicycle power trading, 011-023-2777 will have these for sale in the next 2 weeks and will hopefully be selling for +/-R2000.00 on top of the pricing for the selected power tap hub. new exciting things to come from Bicycle Power Trading soon!!!!!!

have a look at the home page of the importers: My link

Cool looking bike Ian, i wish you and the new shop all the best!!!

sorry to let the side down, but i will NOT be going campag!!! the cost to change tools will be too expensive, not just the chain tool but the others too. and i service my own bike. thanks for the info regarding the interchangeability, and agreed that one should keep a groupset a groupset and not mix and match. any other comments welcom

Right, with so many group sets now out on the market it makes things very hard to choose. I have finally narrowed my choice down, the new (7900) Dura ace, the old (7800) Dura ace (stick to what I know) or the new kid on the block, Sram RED. I have ruled Campag out due to the extreme cost, lack of service in SA and the R1500 odd for a chain tool!! And ill have to buy new tools for the group set. My current set up is a Cervelo Soloist, GREAT BIKE! With HED Stinger 60 wheels and a SRM. Shimano Dura ace 7800. All I am interested in doing is getting a set of STI?s and a Rear Derailleur, and would like to know a few facts before changing over. Shimano first, what is compatible from the 7800 Dura ace and the 7900 Dura ace. I have heard that the breaks are NOT, the Front Derailleur is NOT, Rear Derailleur???? Cassette is interchangeable. So if I have the 7900 STI?s and a 7800 RD, with a 7800 FD will it work? Keep in mind I do not have the 7900 Dura ace Crank, using a SRM with the SRM cranks. And now lets do it the other way will 7800 STI?s work with the 7900 RD???? Finally what is the shifting ratio of the 7900 and ?old? 7800? I have heard the 7800 Dura ace is a 2:1 and the new 7900 is a 1:1. Now onto Sram, I know the different levels of the Sram range are interchangeable but are Shimano and Sram interchangeable? The cassettes are. But will Sram STI?s (double tap levers) work on the 7900 or 7800 RD????? And will the Sram STI?s work on a Dura ace FD both 7800 and 7900 range?? And what is the ratio of Sram? I have heard the ratio is 1:1. Is there anyone on the hub who has either one of these group sets and is willing to admit being in a crash? I would like to know how the STI?s (double top levers) and the RD held up? As well as your experiences with these two group sets.

rahter save ur cash on the R3 and buy a soloist, its a much better bike, not much heavier, alot stiffer and more areo. thats just my thoughts, have managed to ride a R3 and have a soloist great bikes. yes the soloist is a v v stiff ride almost uncomfortable but ul get used to it soon.

ok so who here has a P3 or a P2C that they can get the measurements? as far as i know the P3 front section, i.e. from the frok all the way to the seat tube was the same as the soliost? and the soliost makes it into the 3:1 ratio.

what about a disc wheel that does not fit into the 3:1 ratio ha ha ha

yay the soliost just makes it in at 2.7 wide and just under 8.1 high. thankfully. but what if they take the measurements at the BB some of the bikes like the soliost have a over sized BB how are they going to measure that?

i know Token do some light weight breaks, they weigh about 210g and look alot strong, i am expecting to get a set soon so will be able to tell you what they are like

contact Jason 084 888 1221

ok great thanks for all the comments, R2000+ on a battery change

Hey all, I have just got a SRM, it a great unit BUT....... how do I know if the battery in the crank disc has gone flat or is on its way to going flat, I am having huge problems with picking up a power reading. the pick up is places correctly and does not move during a ride, I will sometimes get it picking up during an off set test, but then during the ride there is nothing. I know the unit is due for a service but would like to know if it is the battery first any help please..... thanks