Wazza_pe

You've done a very similar build to me. Mine's a 84 Master with late 90's 9 speed Record, Regal saddle. Also came in at around the 9.7 - 9.8 kg mark if I remember correctly. Looks great, enjoy her!

I only saw the Benotto. Is the Somec gone??

How much pedigree? Are you only interested in Italian? It all comes down to budget...give us more info

To all the fellow lovers of things retro: https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/143326-ride-your-20-yr-old-pre-1995-bicycle-at-next-years-the-herald-vw-cycle-tour-in-port-elizabeth Please go vote on the poll!!

Woodstock Cycleworks has plenty old derailleurs

Your local riding terrain should be the decider. If you have lots of steep long climbs then it would probably be best to stick with 2*10. I live in PE and find that my 1*10 setup is perfect for the majority of terrain in this region. 1*11 is a complete ripoff, rather do your own 1*10 conversion. Provided you already have a clutch rear derailleur, you'll only need a chainring (Raceface are excellent approx R800) and I went the General Lee route which was around R2k. So off the bat it's far cheaper than a 1*11 and also very affordable to maintain.

Latest build I've completed, this time for a good mate. The brief was he was wanting something different, single speed, and it needed to turn heads over in the UK, where he is moving to in a couple of weeks. He pretty much gave me carte blanche to do what I like, so I was kinda nervous that I'd do something he ended up hating. I handed it over yesterday and thankfully he loves it. It was a very tired, black and yellow Panasonic DX-3000 that hadn't been ridden in almost 20 years. http://www.bikelove.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/DSC00373b.jpg http://www.bikelove.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/DSC00374b.jpg

Thanks. Yip, already changed to some MKS pedals with steel cages.

Got super lucky, found the brakes NOS in their original box in Holland. Love them!! Saddle is a Selle Monte Grappa, very comfortable. I've actually just bought 2 more for other builds.

My latest retro build. She rides beautifully...and turns lots of heads. Thanks to Glenzito for selling me the frame.

I've been running tubeless for about a year now. Very happy with my decision. Don't think about some hack conversion though, only do it if you're in the market for some new wheels.

My updated LeTurbo track bike/fixie.

Yip, I agree, always best to go original on bikes with this kind of pedigree. I got lucky, mine has immaculate original paint.

What colour is your Master? Mine is a 1985, amazing condition considering it's age.

Nope, pics taken in a friends coffee shop. Thanks everyone for the kind words.

Finally taken a few decent pics of my retro build that I completed a few months ago: Hope you guys like her. It took a LOT of missioning to get this build completed.

Yipo, we're on the same page. I think his issue was actually that he was trying to run a 3/32" chain on a 1/8" rear cog, which was the root of the problem. The 'chain wrap' had nothing to do with his original issues. In my opinion, this so called 'chain wrap' is not a factor at all.

Sorry, but that logic just doesn't make any sense to me. If the size of the rear cog is the same in both scenarios, a 1/8" chain cannot 'wrap' around said cog any more than a 3/32" chain. Each chain will engage the same amount of teeth on the rear sprocket in either scenario. I have bikes running 1/8" and others running 3/32", and there is no difference in performance. I've never experienced a chain skipping under power.

Ratio's are pretty tough, I know it can seem expensive, but I recommend buying a couple of sprockets to test what works/feels best. The first ss I built is running 42:16. My Daccordi ss is now running 42:13, and I rock it up some big climbs here in PE, and the other nice thing is I don't 'spin out' on the flats often. So it's worked out to be a far better ratio for me.

TWT are one of the worst suppliers I've ever dealt with. Very unhelpful and disinterested. I've learnt my lessons: Now when I want a Stan's or Profile Design product, I choose to import it rather than have to deal with them. For this reason, I will also never buy one of his bikes. OP - take it as school fees, learn a lesson, find better cycle shops to deal with. As someone else said previously, many shops are in the retail game, and can't give you sound advice. Rather pay a little more at a solid, reputable bike shop and get advice you can trust. There don't seem to be that many of them around anymore, but if you look hard enough you'll find one. Luckily down here in PE, we've got decent guys like Wayne Pheiffer and Rob Rudman who have the experience to help the 'uninformed/uneducated' out.

Can't really say, looks early to mid 2000's to me. Your guess of 2006 might be on the money.

Paint strippers will screw up the resin. Don't do it. The method I used, was to sand the paint off, be careful to stop as soon as you reach the resin layer. I don't really suggest using a machine, you could take it too far down before you realise it. Safest option is good old elbow grease. Once you've reached the resin, and all the paint is off, then like anything else, you'll want to water paper to remove any scratches. Once the surface looks good, give it a nice clean, and spray on a clear coat.

In my opinion: Road: sub 1400g 29er: sub 1600g

I've been using Zinio for about 4 years now, it's great. The only negative (for me) is that you can't move/setup your library in a specific storage location. On a pc, it uses its default location on your c: which becomes an issue when your library grows to 10's of Gb, and starts 'hogging' space on your expensive ssd. The old software allowed you to put your library on a different partition/drive, which was way better.