WillemT

Can anybody help out by giving me some pro an cons about mavic crossride wheels?? I'm looking to order a set from chain reaction, they're quite affordable... Is it goog or average wheels and will they be fine carrying someone that weighs around 100kg? Can they take some beating? Please let me know of any good/bad experiences you've had with them!!!

haha good one... you want me to damage my frame first.... although it shouldn't, allu can take much more heat than paint before it starts to soften. thanks for the advice, will soon look into it. will maybe contact token freak and ask him what he'll charge me. There is offcoarse the student budget to take into account...

I recently got a stolen bike back. Went to look for the bike a the local police station in Stellenbosch and found it after a long while in the bike "holding"/storage space at the back. The only thing is, it was repainted.... I recognised the bike from a little dent in the left rear chainstay!! The shocking part is it looked like a cyclest actually had the bike, converted the front to tubeless, and put some xt shifters on... also put on a different shock and other hydro brakes on... so now I have a buggered up bike, better parts by name but not condition.... I tried to take some of the paint off with acetone but saw that the guy tried to scratch the name off before he painted it... What paint can I use to repaint the frame? Should I sand it down or use paint stripper? Does anybody paint bike frames in their spare time for fun??? Will scott send me some stickers maybe to put on the frame again?

I did turn it the right way, have been working on bikes for quite a few years, but thanks. One tends to forget the simple basic stuff sometimes... problem solved.... just used bigger and bigger and yet more bigger tools... enden up with a 600 mm long power bar and gave it a bit of shock therapy with that while putting torque on the power bar.... that bugger just couldn't say no to that!!!

I have a stuck bb in my girlfriends scott scale 40 frame. It's still one of the older bb's, looking to put a LX hollow 2 crank on but can't get the BB out for any money in the world. got the left part out easily wich is just a plastic spacer basicly but can't get the BB itself out... Thinking of taking it to the lbs. Any suggestions??

In regard with service I can definitely recommend cutter!!! I've ordered at least R6k's parts from them in total now and never had a day's problems!! They even sent me a extra LED for free once when I told them one of the previous ones lost it's primary lens in the way here!! Their prices on LEDs have gone down drasticly to where they can easily compete with anyone else!!! Their response time when you have any queries is very fast, with in a few hours, apart for the time diff offcoarse between us and aus... and they're always very friendly and do their best to help with what ever they can. The one time one of my parcels got stuck at customs they said they'll find out where it is and if they don't find it they'll go through the insurance claim and send me another order... then you jsut have to take the mail option with insurance. You also work directly through them and payment is direct to them. They're really according to me a 1st class company to work with!!!night tider2009-08-16 15:05:21

I see the prices on www.cutter.com.au on the LEDs is down quite a bit from the last time I ordered. It's actually very close to dealextreme and those sites, maybe worth checking out for the guys who want to order leds...

wel because there's no place to to tie the cable on neatly. The cable run down to the BB and then up to the fd and along the bottom stay to the rd. And i'm not going for the whole cable tie thing on that bike... I like it the way it looks now, no extra's or anything, not even bottle cages... maybe I will try it one day if it can look decent... night tider2009-06-04 10:31:39

it is prelubed but not with a normal lube that makes it sticky inside after a while. I wish I had the option to put outers on all the way on my dale but unafortunately I don't so I have to live with it. I still have one of these horrible plastic plates at the bottom of my frame that wears out... and then buggers up your shifting.

http://www.ledsupply.com Shipping is a bit expensive $30 or so but they've got lenses and other bits and pieces as well. cutter also have a huge lot of LED stuff, lenses drivers ect. just a little expensive but worth looking looking at. With LEDs I feel more comfortable ordering from cutter as I know I'm getting the rigth stuff. I can't believe that a Q5 and a scarce R2 costs the same on dealextreme, and they don't always give you the colour tint. www.cutter.com.au

I think for the buck puck a 800 ohm resistor gives you more or less 300mA output and a 1Kohm gives you around 700mA, open circuit gives you ful 1000mA. these values are very ruff, what you can try is to get a mini pot that you tune with a little screwdriver and put that in, tune it and then leave it inside. You can order a little plug from yebo electornics that fits perfectly on the buckpuck. it's a 8 pin PCB connector with 0.1 inch spacing. if you do order it just remember to also get the little pins that goes inside as the plug is just the plastic part. it costs about R4. if you order toggle switches or something from them you can just add that at R4...

how many cm in one foot 196 cm?night tider2009-06-01 03:55:48

from a co dale rider, well said!!

well to shoot on a fork is a useless test to me for knowing how good the fork is. I mean it's a mtb sus fork not a bomb shelter. Would cannondale literaly mean that it's bullet proof? I don't think so.

that must have been the most useless review i've ever read in my life!!!

Ok I think I misunderstood a little... The larger diameter steerer is not what makes the fork stiffer according to me. As I think the larger steer was just to make space in the steerer tube for the headshok's internals wich were developed first before the lefty. The fact that it has a 8 sided internal steerer with 4 sides running on bearings is what makes it a lot stiffer as there is no way you'll get any rotational play between those surfaces. On a convetional fork, your surfaces that slides on each other is round and although there is two of them there is no or very little rotational resistance them individual, it's the fact that there's 2 of them that puts a constraint on the rotational movement but you still get some rotational play. This can easily be seen if you take a old fork with small diameter stanchions and compare it to a newer fork with much larger diameter stanchions. The larger diameter doesn't bend that much and therefore the whole frame of the shock is stiffer and that in turn limits the rotational play or rotational flexibility rather, on the fork.

there's no torque needed when steering a bike on a flat tar road, that might be so, but if to go down a single track there's definitly a lot of torque present. If you ride of a side walk at a very very slow speed at a 45 deg angle, at the point where the front wheel goes off you'll feel that the handle bars want to turn. Same happens on single tracks when going over rocks etc... So there's your event where you need torque and where a stiffer fork will give you more precise steering...

I ride a dale with a headshok, only 80 mm of travel but great performance on the whole 80mm. I've heard from friends who rides leftys, that the maintenance can be costy... the headshok probably the same but in the last 4 years I haven't had any expenses on it. Also with the headshok you can use normal wheels etc... I also had speed wobble in my bike for quite a long time. retensioned the rear wheel spokes and all was fine again... seemed that they weren't all the same tension and then as you ride the rear end of the bike moves from side to side, only a little and you can't feel it, but enough to start the wobble. the other companies doesn't have the engineers to make something like a lefty work so they need two sides to make it more simple... night tider2009-05-28 06:50:28

ok so here is what you need for a 700 lumen light 3 x cree Q5 LEDs cutter 2 x 8 deg lenses cutter 1x 25 deg lense cutter 1 x buckpuck 3021 DE 1000 mA rabtron 1 x aluminium midas flashlight midas 12 - 16volt batt pack (can use 12 NiMH AA's) clicks dc connectors yebo electronics some wire yebo electronics plug for buckpuck yebo electronics ryder rear light for mounting lbs m3 or m4 screw hardware store m3 or m4 wingnut hardware store alu heatsink engineering workshop some battery holders and clips yebo electronics most of the stuff you can get really quickly, as in with in a week, but the LEDs and lenses might take a little longer.night tider2009-05-26 13:19:43

does he have a "draai bank" maybe? think it's a lathe??

do you need the light for road riding or mtbiking??

you wouldn't be sorry but your bank balance will. if you had a little time you could build yourself a great light, exactly the same as the BL light just way cheaper.

The best LEDs you get from rabtron as far as I know is luxeons wich is really not leka LEDs!!! you can get a buckpuck from them but that's about it. Try get cree LEDs they really are the best!! I would've volunteered to build you light but I'm currently busy with exams.