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Mars1967

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Everything posted by Mars1967

  1. There is a guy in Centurion that does sand/media blasting with very fine abrasive media. I was quite sceptical at first but then he demonstrated on a tappet cover he was doing. Here is a pic of the finish. This was perfect for my purposes and it was very close to the original finish of the frame. After a couple of coats of base and clear cote the finish is invisible. If you look closely you can still see where the original name was sprayed on. Obviously this is not suitable for an anodized finish. For anodising to look good the finish has to be absolutely perfect. Regardless of what you use it is still going to require a lot of elbow grease.
  2. Sadly I am not good with taking pictures. It is stupid actually as it detracts from the overall impact of the project. I spent three years building a Porsche Spyder 718 RSK replica and there is exactly one photo of me working on the car. Personally I prefer to do the work. So unfortunately I did not take any before pictures in good light to show the condition of the bike. It had many scratches and marks from cables rubbing and the carbon fibre on the seat-stay was full of scratches through the gel-coat. Here and there the scratches extended into the carbon fibre but fortunately not enough to compromise the integrity of the carbon fibre and fortunately in less visible areas. I had to fill a few small spots with resin to get it smooth. First, I masked the carbon and sandblasted the aluminium parts. These were primed and sprayed with a metallic silver base coat. Then I removed the masking and did the whole seatstay with plastic primer and three coats of clear 2k. The chainstay also took a beating. I sprayed it with two coats of metallic silver base coat and two layers of 2K clear coat after proper sandblasting. Due to the fact that Titus was a small boutique bike company in the US, which folded in 2009, there is preciously little information on the Internet. I could get no designs of their logos. I had to take artist lay-out paper and trace the logos by hand on the frame. A friend of my wife does graphic design. She replicated the designs perfectly. A guy at the paint shop does his own custom painting and offered to make the decals for me. I had the frame sandblasted with a very fine medium and then primed and used the same metallic silver base coat as on the seat and chain stays. I did two coats of silver and then applied the decals. I learnt a valuable lesson here. Next time I will use a flat silver as base before masking as it was an absolute b*tch to get the decals to stick to the metallic silver. Very interesting. At first I thought the vinyl was defective but it worked fine on a flat colour. Another issue could be that the lines are relatively thin with a small surface area to stick. I eventually managed to get them down properly (or as best I could anyway). Any bleeding between such high contrasting colours will be very visible and would look terrible. As a matter of fact I thought that I was going to get serious bleeding. I then sprayed the black base coat in very light layers to try and avoid bleeding. I was very surprised and relieved to see how little bleeding there actually was when I removed the decals. Another nerve wrecking experience, as the slightest slip of the hobby knife could ruin the fine lettering. At least the decals came off easily. ???? The up-side is that the metallic silver logos really “pop”. I then painted two coats of clear 2k. The first, a light coat, and the second a heavy coat. The paintwork is not absolutely perfect but then I do not spray paint regularly enough to keep my skills sharp. I also do not have access to a spray booth so I had to flat out some spots where dust invariably settled. In the end it is about the overall appearance of the project when everything is assembled. I seriously need to suppress my OCD and realise that it is probably the best job possible given my equipment.
  3. GT Make good bikes. My starter was a GT Avalanche 2. No issues whatsoever.
  4. You are welcome. Where are you located?
  5. I was also faced with the same question from November last year (shortly before my eldest's birthday). Buy a new entry level Mountain Bike bike or a "for its time" decent to good secondhand bike. I have two boys who are quickly growing up and needed better bikes. After visiting a few bike shops, I was shocked to see the prices of the new, even entry level bikes. In my instance, I decided to go the secondhand bike route. I have gone through this exercise 3 times now (because my interest in dual suspension bikes was piqued, I also got one for myself.) I am about to go through the process for a fourth time now. I am fortunate in that I am technically inclined and have built up an extensive set of tools and machines over the years, that the average guy would not necessarily have which means that I can make or fix parts where required. If you are looking for dual suspension bikes in your price range you will be limited to bikes with 26 inch wheels. You may come right with a hard tail in 29 inches. Here are a few things I have learnt when it comes to buying a second-hand mountain bike in general, and specifically when it comes to 26 inch Dual Suspension Mountain Bikes. 1. When you are interested in a bike, make sure of the age. Ask on this forum or Google the different models. There are a few sites out there that provide values of bikes etc. People often get the age of the bike wrong and have an inflated expectation of the value of their bike. This is exacerbated by the fact that the new bikes and components have become extremely expensive (in my modest view). People now regularly feel that they can sell their bike for the same or even more than what they bought it for. 2. Patience is a virtue. There are some really good bargains to be had out there. I managed to get a Medium Giant Anthem X1 on the hub for a friend of mine. He paid R8000, but the bike was pristine and he did not need to spend a single cent on it. I helped him service the bike (including the fork and shock) and everything was perfect. The bike was actually truly only ridden a few times. 3. You have to inspect the bike personally and ask someone who is knowledgeable to come with. 4. Know that you will need to service the bike or have it serviced, even if the seller tells you it was serviced. Not that he/she may be untruthful, but you will need to establish for yourself if there are any issues. This includes a service of the shock and fork. a Suspension service can turn out to be very costly which is the reason why people caution against buying secondhand dual suspension bikes. 5. Assume that, at the very least the cassette, chain, bottom bracket and brake pads will need replacing. This could extend to hubs or shafts etc. Fortunately it is easy to check chain wear with an inexpensive tool/gauge you can get from your LBS. If you factor the replacement cost of those items into the cost of the bike, anything you do not need to replace is a bonus. 6. In all likelihood you will also need to replace the pivot bearings on the bike. Whilst fairly available it can also be an expensive exercise. I have done it on three bikes now and the average price is in the region of about R700. This is for high quality bearings sourced form bearing agents and not the LBS. Expect to pay more from the LBS. 7. Tire replacement can also be very expensive. Especially if you want to go tubeless. 8. The older the bike is the harder it may be to source parts. 9. Because of the price of new spares, the build cost can add up very quickly. Fortunately there are good buys to be had on the hub and you will be surprised how helpful people are on the forum. I am not mentioning all of the above to dissuade you, but rather enable you to make a more informed decision. I guess it ultimately boils down to what you intend doing with the bike. In my instance I wanted to get decent bikes for my boys and a dual suspension for me for fitness and recreation. I am not interested in competing in events, nor do I want to do very technical rides. Thus 26 inch wheels were more that adequate for me and the boys. The other question is if you are one of those guys who are bothered with having the latest. I have rebuilt three bikes now. Two for well within your budget. The one a Trek Fuel EX6 for my one boy and the other Giant Anthem 2 for myself. Both these bikes are mechanically perfect and a huge pleasure to ride. The third one was a complete restore for my youngest son. It is the bike featured here. Titus RacerX restoration - Post Your Bike & Projects - Bike Hub In this instance the Fox fork on the bike was not economical to repair, but that was obvious on inspection of the bike and I managed to source a suitable fork in an excellent condition on the hub. Another speed bump, that pushed up the price, was that the one rim is damaged beyond repair. Something that was not visible in the initial inspection. I managed to get another set of 26 inch rims in good condition as a replacement. I also opted to completely strip and respray the bike, adding to the cost, which was not strictly necessary if you don't mind a few nicks and scratches. Something that is going to happen much quicker than you hoped in any event if you use the bike regularly. The build came in under R10 000 (only because I did everything myself) but I am certain that there are a few people who would not mind paying R10k for this bike in an "as close to a new condition" as you are likely to find. The other thought, and I realise that in a sense I may be supporting the current high prices being asked for secondhand bikes, is that you simply need to compare what you can buy new for R10k with this bike and I can assure you that you are unlikely to come near the same specs. I love tinkering and fixing things and so far I can honestly say that all three projects have been absolutely worth it. Both in terms of a personal sense of achievement and financially. Perhaps the last point I should make is that it is a good idea to spend one or two thousand rand more on a very clean bike than trying to save it on one that is not so clean.
  6. I am really enjoying your builds. Both bikes look awesome.
  7. Hi Guys. I am looking for a remote lockout for a Rockshox Fork. Happy to pay. Thanks
  8. I really don’t know why the text jumped to the middle of the photo’s?
  9. Hi Guys. I bought a Titus RacerX to rebuild for my son. It was fairly beat up and had seen some hard use and little maintenance. I had to do a full rebuild including a respray of the frame, chain-stay and seat-stay (and a bunch of smaller components like the crankset etc.) I also replaced all the pivot bearings on the rear suspension and the bottom bracket. I serviced both the shock and fork. Everything was cleaned and polished as I went along. I am quite happy how it turned out.
  10. Absolutely. There must be some obscene profit margins in there.
  11. That is very cool and nicely thought out!!!
  12. The best option is to use a quick coupler. The ones with the magnet inserted in the base are fairly slim. there is a picture of one higher up in the thread.
  13. It doesn’t appear as if either of the Ryobi drills have a hammer drill function. Of the two the blue one is definitely the pick. The special on the Bosch is really good. For R345 more, which in the bigger scheme of things is nothing, you have a great drill that is serviceable to boot. It also does not appear that this Bosch has a hammer drill function. This is only important if you intend drilling into bricks and mortar as well. The Adendorff drill has a hammer drill function and comes with two batteries.
  14. That is precisely the type of drill/driver that I would suggest for a starter. I have had good results with Adendorff tools in terms of value for money. The drill will be made in one of the many factories in China making cordless tools, both to supply to brand products and under their own names. Batteries can be a bit of a hit and miss affair. Some Li-ion batteries from China are decent and some are horrendous. Anyway the drill should come with a warranty.
  15. The problem is that there are many different manufacturers using different descriptions and terminology. . Basically you get the following types of cordless drills/drivers. The cordless screwdriver is the most basic tool and does not turn fast enough to drill effectively. It is normally only adapted to take hex bits. I have seen some drill bits manufactured with a hex adapter which could be used to drill but the limiting factor is the rotational speed of the tool. Then you get cordless drills that can also function as a screw driver. It has a drill chuck to accommodate drill bits but one can also clamp hex bits and quick change couplers. It will also have two speed settings, one for drilling and one for driving screws. Lastly it will normally have the ability (a clutch) to adjust the tension/force that screws are tightened, allowing it to slip at the set value. One step up are drills with a selectable hammer drill function. It normally has all of the functions of 2 above plus the ability to select a hammer function for drilling into brick, concrete etc. This is sometimes referred to as an impact drill. Next you get a rotary hammer. It normally has two or perhaps three settings. One a normal drill function, one a rotary hammer drill function (which is a substantially heavier hammer function than with the hammer drill function that no2 has, hence the name rotary hammer) and possibly a hammer only function to take chisels. It will have a SDS or SDS plus chuck. A rotary hammer is much more robust and stronger than a drill with hammer function. I have not seen one that can be used as a screwdriver but I may be mistaken. A pure rotary hammer cannot be used as a screwdriver. An impact driver is mostly intended to drive bolts and nuts. It normally has a square socket adapter instead of a chuck. I have seen adapter sizes ranging from 1/4 inch all the way to 1 inch. An impact driver can remove and tighten bolts and nuts too much higher torque values than a cordless drill/driver. It can also be used to release and tighten screws and you get specific bits made of high carbon steel for this purpose. The impact driver sockets that one should use are also high carbon steel designed to handle the powerful blows that the impact driver delivers. An impact driver can tighten and release to surprisingly high toque values of several hundred Newton Meters, depending on the model of course. A true impact driver is not suitable for drilling. In my opinion and experience one should not tighten anything using an impact driver. It is very easy to exceed the torque values of the bolts, nuts or screws you are tightening. If it is a critical torque value that is demanded then a torque wrench should rather be used.There may be hybrids of the above but these are the main categories as I see them. In my somewhat biased view you need one of each and then sometimes more than one of each. As a first drill, a drill/driver with a hammer drill function (no 3) is probably best. As with everything else try and buy the best you can afford.
  16. It is a very good thing that they are far away from me.
  17. Noted
  18. Very nicely done. It is clear that some thinking went into the design and fabrication.
  19. No money, goods or other consideration changed hands. I just got tired of the legal "speculation" going on here and acted "mero motu". (more Googling for Adam)
  20. Thanks you. At least I did not get both my law degrees from The Google School of Law.
  21. I am loath to make this post this as I do not want to be drawn into a long-winded lecture on the law of contract, something which could very easily happen. Also bear in mind that legal advice is normally worth what you paid for it. It is also not my intention to give a full and complete exposition on the law of contract and there will be numerous exceptions that I do not deal with. This should also not be construed as legal advice but simply an attempt at stating the basic position. The law pertaining to the private sale and purchase of goods is trite. I am focusing on a purchase agreement between private parties and not where dealers are involved although the basic principles also apply. The first point to make is that the risks to a buyer are well known and have been for a very long time. Even before Roman times but these risks has aptly found expression in the dictum "Caveat Emptor" - Let the Buyer Beware. Secondly, when you make an offer to purchase an advertised item and the seller accepts that offer then you have a valid agreement of sale and purchase. Even if it is not reduced to writing. A contract for immovable property is an exception and is required to be in writing. The basic requirement for a valid contract to arise is a "meeting of the minds" on all the essential aspects of the transaction namely the nature of the contract (to buy and sell), the purchase item (commodity) and the price. (There can be instances where there was no meeting of the minds and where there is no valid contract. I am not going to describe those.) A meeting of the minds can also be attained through misrepresentation. This is where things start to get complicated. One needs to distinguish between a misrepresentation as opposed to an implicit warranty in terms of the operation of law (ex lege). The reason for this distinction is because there are different remedies available to the buyer in the different circumstances. Lets first look at warranties. There are two types of warranties. The one mentioned above and warranties provided expressly by the seller (ex contractu) which could include, but is not limited to, a warranty that the item is suitable for the intended purpose of the buyer or giving a warranty that certain shortcomings/faults are not present. This is fairly straight-forward but the buyer will need to prove that an explicit warranty was given Something that could be problematic in the case of an oral agreement. So keep all your Whatsapps, SMSes and emails. In any purchase agreement there is a warranty against hidden or latent defects. This warranty is in place in terms of the operation of law which can be expressly excluded by a "voetstoots (as-is)" clause. One also needs to distinguish between patent defects and latent (or hidden) defects. A patent defect is one that is noticeable by a carefully observant person. It is the duty of the buyer to protect himself and carefully inspect the item. In the case of a patent defect the buyer may have no remedy (again an oversimplification). This requirement immediately poses a challenge when buying an item "remotely" and not being able to inspect it. I shall attempt to discuss the position later. A latent defect is a shortcoming in the purchase item, of a material nature, that impacts on the usability of the item and which was not known by the seller at the time of contracting nor was it easily observable. As stated there is an implicit warranty against hidden defects unless accompanied by a voetstoots clause. So let the seller beware in this instance. If you want to protect yourself against liability on the basis of this implicit warranty then make sure to include a voetstoots clause. If the seller was aware of the defect and did not disclose it to the buyer then a voetstoots clause cannot protect the seller as it is an intentional misrepresentation and the seller will be liable. a Voetstoots clause will also generally not protect the seller in the case of a misrepresentation relating to the item. A dealer is in a different position and the CPA applies as well. A voetstoots clause will not protect a dealer and would quite frankly only serve to dissuade potential buyers. As a matter of fact a dealer cannot use a voetstoots clause in terms of the CPA. This is an oversimplification of the position of dealers and I am not going to expand on this save to say that not even ignorance on the side of the dealer regarding a hidden defect will exclude liability. Generally there is a higher duty of care on a dealer. Lets look at misrepresentations. A misrepresentation in an untruthful statement/representation made made before or during contract negotiations which is of such a nature that it induces the buyer to enter into the contract. In practice the question is also asked if the misrepresentation was material but the basic test is whether the buyer was induced to enter into the contact. If the misrepresentation induced the buyer to enter into the contract, the buyer can choose to rescind the contract. Even if the misrepresentation was made in error or where the seller was unaware of the untruthfulness or negligent in the making of the misrepresentation. When the buyer decides to rescind the contract, the parties are released from their obligations in terms of the contract, and both can insist on, and are entitled to, the return of the purchase item and the money respectively. The buyer however has the option to proceed with the agreement. The buyer will lose his/her right to hand back the item if it is not done within a reasonable time. To complicate matters further one also needs to distinguish between "puffing" (the seller praising the attributes of the item/sales talk e.g. saying the bike is "brand new" and has only done 1000 kilometers) on the one hand and an attempt to mislead on the other. There is a fine distinction which will normally be inferred from the facts of the specific case but can be quite difficult to draw. Where a misrepresentation was made intentionally, the buyer is also entitled to claim damages as the seller has committed a delict against the buyer. The seller could potentially also be criminally charged with fraud but this is very unlikely and will only be entertained in extreme cases of fraud. The basic premise from a SAPS/prosecution point-of-view is that it is a civil matter and the buyer should exercise his rights and use the civil remedies available to him or her. One should also not be allowed to use the State to settle their private scores or act as a personal debt collector. As far as an agent is concerned, the basic principle is that the seller attracts liability through the conduct of his agent. There is a duty on an agent to disclose to the buyer that he is acting on behalf of the seller. Again there are many more complexities than these two simple sentences. So where does that leave the buyer who has a duty to inspect the purchase item and protect him/herself. Where that is not possible it would be ideal to ask another person to inspect the item on your behalf, bearing in mind that the "inspector" may also make a mistake or overlook a problem opening a whole new potential can of worms. If no inspection is possible, it is imperative that the buyer asks as many pertinent questions as possible, get more and better photo's if required and be very clear about his/her expectations. Do your due diligence such as checking the ratings etc. of the seller, the price of new items and the going rate of similar second hand items. Do research on the suitability of the item for your specific needs and lastly always remember "caveat emptor". As far as the seller is concerned it is my personal view that there may actually be a higher requirement of a duty of care/disclosure in the case where the item is sold "remotely". If not on a legal basis, then at least on a moral or reputational basis. Try to take decent photo's of the item making sure that marks, damage or issues etc. are clearly visible on the photos and disclose those. Especially if it is clearly visible and obvious. Be careful not to make statements that cannot be substantiated or be perceived as a misrepresentation. Always include an "as-is" statement unless you are prepared to provide a warranty against hidden defects. Most importantly remember that a good reputation is everything. It cannot be bought with all the money in the world, once lost. Obviously this applies to both parties. I probably managed to raise more questions than provide answers at this point. For instance, how do you prove that the seller knew about a latent defect and intentionally withheld that from the buyer? How do you prove that the seller made a misrepresentation in bad faith. How do you prove that a warranty was given? It is important to realise from the above, that there are many issues that can be raised and would need to be dealt with in litigation. Often it is a question of the one person's word against the other's and here the objectively provable facts and circumstantial evidence may serve the court to arrive at a finding. The facts are unique to each case which makes it even more complicated. The point is that litigation is seldom the answer unless large potential losses are at stake. Also bear in mind that the basic principle is that he that alleges must prove. I am not trying to dissuade anyone to litigate but rather to alert them to some of the realities of litigation. Often it is a question of how much justice you can afford. Another issue is how much time and energy you have to expend on the issue, as litigation takes very long with court enrollment dates far in the future in most jurisdictions. Fortunately all of this only comes into play when the deal goes sour, which is very much the exception rather than the rule, when looking at the transactions taking place on the forum and the number of good ratings given and received. On a side comment, Adam actually may have a point about the Second Hand Goods Act of 2006. Bicycles and Bicycle parts are expressly listed in Schedule 1 to the Act. This further goes to show that the Google School of Law can be a hit and miss affair at the best of times.
  22. Good Afternoon Hubbers. I see the following special offer on Takealot. I thought this is quite a good deal. Granite-Design Stash Tool Combo Aluminum Bars Only (18-21mm) | Buy Online in South Africa | takealot.com R399 for both the handle bar tools.
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