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Chain-L

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Everything posted by Chain-L

  1. Anyone experiencing problems when recording the cycling events? I set my PVR to record all the reruns, because more often then not, it says it is cycling on the TV guide, but when I replay, it is fishing or some other strange program. One of the three stage three's of the Paris Nice which I recorded was thankfully stage three of the PN, the other 2 recordings was something completely different even though it says Stage 3 PN when I press info?? Good coverage though! Thanks SS-just get the PVR and TV Guide right!
  2. Thanks mampara, but those are the ones i am uisng. Dont trust them on their own. Will look for those reusable cable tie jobs. Seems like exactly what i need. Lekke trap die naweek manne!
  3. I have a bike rack that takes two standing bikes, but the rack does not have ratchet straps fitted to the wheel trays. I use tie down straps at the moment but want to get those ratchet straps that is attached to the Thule racks. I can only find these 2 on the net, but is looks like they need to be attached to a specific rack. My rack does not have slot for the strap to fit in, so I need a normal ratchet strap with no fitting to attach it to the rack. Any idea where I can get something that will work. Tie down straps take to long, and they come loose after a while. Thule Yakima
  4. What is even funnier (and I also thought Chickenrun's comment is very funny ) is an incident that happened to one of my buddies on the GR300 last weekend. Stopped at the 2nd water point and the person offering to lube his chain said to him: Wow your chain is so dry and squeaky, wat did you do with it? To which he replied (and he was telling no lie): I applied your lube 15km earlier... Applicator was lost for words.
  5. anyone else with a similar problem? Looks like it might be the FSA crank or RD tension that is to slack
  6. I will rather try what these guys recommend!
  7. have a reasonable knowledge of bikes, but it will be stupid to play around with a brand new bike- the next thing you know, the supplier will say that you caused the problems! I prefer the supplier's mechanic to do the tuning and if there is still a problem with it they will start replacing parts!
  8. bike is at the dealer today to sort it out. Will only take it out on the weekend. road riding this week. Thanks for all the help!
  9. I have a friend that is interested in buying a Giant XTC SE1 MTB. He is 1.96 cm tall and it does not look as if the Giant (only comes in L-20") will be large enough for him. He is also considering a Merida and they come in larger sizes (up to 24"). The geometries are not the same though. Here are the links to the geometries. Giant Merida Will the Giant Fit or should he go for the 24" Merida?
  10. I forgot to mention, the bike is brand new.
  11. I hope so, it shipped with the bike
  12. bump
  13. any mechanics out there?
  14. Hi All Have some serious shifting problems with my new Sbike which has RAM X9 2x10 setup. Anybody with advice, or similar experience? Bike has a 27-39 FSA SLK 386 cranks and X9 RD and FD. KMC X10SL, 10-speed chain. The problem is that when I shift from large to small ring, the FD shifts, but the chain stays on the Large ring and then jams from below between the outside plate of the FD (which is now lined up with the large ring) and the chainring. Chain gets stuck here and it looks as if the RD will snap at any moment, as it is stretched very far towards the cranks. Chain almost completely wrapped around the large chainring (hope this makes sense). Chain has also dropped on the outside of the chainrings when I did a fast bumpy descent on a district road, so not extreme terrain. I don't shift under pressure, and have been cycling for a few years, so it is not rider error. A few ideas and suggestions I have had sofar: Get a better Chain (from cannondale mechanic that looked at the bike after day one of this weekend GR 300) Chain is too long causing to much slack (my own idea for a possible cause) RD spring not tight enough causing slack chain (SRAM design fault-from other blogs) Any help will be greatly appreciated as I am very frustrated that this is happening to my brand new bike!
  15. Did not get a manual, was in a mad rush to get the bike ready and on the trails. Will pick it up later from the shop. what do you weigh?
  16. Didnt get one, will ask tomorrow, but want to ride now!
  17. Where can I find setup guide for this lefty: Lefty 29'er Carbon PBR, 90 mm, OPI, Solo Air?? Any help will be great!
  18. OK, so i guess all I have to do now is to pay for the medium and ride it!
  19. Thanks guys, thats what i also thought. Is it better to go larger or smaller if you are in between sizes?
  20. Here is my measurments from ErgoFit Seat height 73.7 Setback 6.7 Reach A 68.8 Drop 6.3 Top tube 59 Stem 100 Crank length 175 and here is the bike geo: I am 90% sure I should take a medium, but need confirmation from a pro. http://www.cannondale.com/CannondaleFiles/geometryimages/11_geo_29er.gif
  21. Chain-L

    Momsen SL929

    Service cost to high for a full sus, and for 36k it will probably be quite a heavy bike? any suggestions in the full sus department?
  22. Chain-L

    Momsen SL929

    Dangle, what would you buy for R36k if you were given the choice now?
  23. Hi Guys For those that really take the quality of the lube they use seriously take a minute and read this: About Chain-L I will try to shed some light on the pros and cons of a wet lube. Dry Lube: Does it run cleaner and why is clean important?: If you apply wet lube properly, it can be almost as clean and should never splatter oil over your bike-most people use to much wet lube and do not wipe it down properly after application. A long lasting lube will become cleaner as you dry wipe the chain after a few rides and the chain will still be lubed on the inside. Not waterproof: after a few river crossings, the chain start creaking as all the 'lube' inside the chain is washed away. Do not use when raining! Needs frequent re-application: This is not necessary when using a good wet lube like Chain-L, Rock and Roll. I do not like stopping every 30 kms for a chain lube. Use more lube: in the long run you will use more lube and the total cost will be cheaper using a long lasting wet lube. Wet Lube: Can be used for 1000 plus km on a road bike and a week (or more- +- 200km) on a mtb in Stellenbosch area (dusty dry at the moment). Chain will still run smooth. No need to re-apply after avery ride or even mid ride. Prevents wear and tear more efficiently than a dry lube. Can be used on dry and wet rides. Application: the trick is in the application and if done properly, your chain will be relatively clean, well lubed for much longer, water resistant, dust proof, quiet, last longer-less w&t. See application instrutions Also read some reviews! And by the way: Chain-L (2 years in a row) and Rock and Roll (which are both wet lubes) are the only lubes to receive awards from MTBR website
  24. Chain-L

    Momsen SL929

    I am in the market for a29er HT and have been looking at the Cannondale Flash carbon 29er 2 (R36 0000- 9.9 kg). I saw the Momsen in the latest bicycling and the bike has a great groupset, for the price and it weighs between 9.5 kg (for a Size M, weight given to me by Momsen himself) and 9.05kg as on this review website (My link). This bike's RRP is R45 000 and I am sure I can get it for around R40 000. Which route would you go? Only thing against the Momsen is the fact that it is their first carbon 29er. It is probably a rebadged something, but if that something is of good quality, then it should bo OK? Only has a 3 year warranty vs lifetime on the Dale.
  25. no interest? where are all the students on this site?
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