MAK

Could be the bead of the tyre flexing more on the rim as a result of the lower pressure. Wet the outside areas of the bead to see if it solves the creaking noise.

Go and google "bicycle computer settings", it'll comeup with Sheldon Brown's page, with settings for every cycle computer and tire sizes. Then print it and keep it handy. Different makes have quite a variation for the same tire size.

take a candle and wipe it over the contact surface of the pedal contact area, as well as over the cleat. This will usually stop squeaks between the contact points. If it still persists then your pedals bearings are worn.

I have noticed a change in London, where motorcyclists used to wear black jackets, black trousers, and used a black motorbike. They were not noticable at all, and of course there were many accidents [and considering the average Londoner can drive better than your average South African]. Now almost EVERYONE, motorcyclists and Bicycle riders, wear flourescent garments, and it's now considered fashion, [check out all the new running shoes and gym shoes], and life-saving. If you wish to wear black everything, that's your choice. The bright people wear bright clothing.

1. ensure lock ring to mount cassette onto freehub body is tightened OK. It should be easy to find the problem and fix it rather than buying a new cassette 2. possibly your cables need lube inside their housing. If they have been washed and left for a while, corrosion can seize the cables. tweek the cable where it is exposed on the frame without using the change levers, it should pull and release easily. Check that none of the cable housing ends have been kinked in the crash. Lube deraileur hinge points. 3. disconnect cable from derailleur, then hold end of cable and try to use gear lever - if cable moves freely, then your derailleur needs oil. If cable is stiff to move, cable needs oil. Good luck - there's always satisfaction if you manage to trace problem yourself!

So the rule was created to prevent a competitor who didn't mind looking stupid, winning a race by a large margin.

Vaseline is OK for your skin, but not much good for metal surfaces in bearings!

OK, so that answers my question - thanks. Now was the rule put their for the competitors safety, ie to make them use parachutes to reduce top speed, or for another reason.

Modi grease [from Midas or other motor suppliers] is excellent - waterproof and better than anything else I've ever found. It's black in colour, lasts forever because it doesn't wash away in water, like other greases, and doesn't harden with age. And its locally made [in Durban]. You can buy it in tubes or tubs [500ml] and cheap . Buy a tub as it's easy to store/access and close after use.

With downhill races being won or lost by thousands of a second, when will we see downhillers wearing aerodynamic clothing over their body protection, to gain that extra advantage. Years ago the 100 metre athletics started seeing bodysuits rather than those old school flapping vests/shorts, and even now the road pros in long races are wearing skinsuits for the fractional decrease in drag, to help in the final sprint. Greg Lemond proved the effectiveness of aerodynamics in the 80s by winning the tour. Remember the less the friction the further you go.......

Maybe the bottom left picture should be someone with a needle stuck in his arm

The best stages to watch are the time trials. As mentioned, you see every rider individually. If you get to the start area, you can usually walk around to see the coaches/bikes/equipment close-up and the guys warming up for hours before their start times. I went to a few prologues [when they are a short T/T] which are brilliant to be at. Watching a flat road stage is all over in a matter of a few seconds. Try to get on a route before the race comes through to watch the caravan - a must-see. Being on a mountain stage is great, but you have to get there hours [day?] in advance, and remember that at any spot you watch a stage, once it is over, you generally have to leave - and there are plenty others with the same idea, and traffic is worse than hectic. I found that the start area a few hours before is a good place to be, as you are able to see more.

I spend a lot of time in Europe [where I don't have to worry about postage to SA] so I have no experience of their shipping issues to SA, but my best sites [in Europe] are: 1/ roseversand.com [German] or rosebikes.co.uk [England] These guys have a catalogue like a telephone directory. 2/ Planet-x-bikes.co.uk [now linked with on-one.co.uk] They claim free postage to all over the world. They are very good and well priced. If I order items, they are delivered to me [in London] the next morning. For the single-speeders: charliethebikemonger.com A very amusing site, and again very good service. CRC also do brilliantly, especially when they have clearances, but ensure you know exactly what you are purchasing [use part numbers to check, don't always rely on pictues on the site] gbcycles.co.uk [Geoffrey Butler] for the upper end of the road bike market, and campagnolo. Other interesting sites to wet your appetite [ and plan an overseas holiday] are: decathlon.co.uk [huge warehouse shops for ALL sports, and very cheap for good quality clothes/sports stuff/bicyles plus components] ribblecycles.co.uk wiggle.co.uk jejamescycles.co.uk edinburghbicycles.com salden.nl [shop in south of Netherlands] mammoet.nl [The Hague] evanscycles.com cyclesurgery.com halfords.com Items on 'sale' overseas are extremely cheap and are usually marked down to half price or more, normal stuff is easier and probably cheaper through CWC locally. Again I don't have experience with postage to SA. If you go overseas you can bring back R5000 of goods as accompanied baggage, before you have to pay customs duty.