FlandersZA

This thread was created more than 2 years prior to me joining the Hub. Well, I can also vouch for Richard at CCS. He got me up and running with my first set of kit and as Ossie says, always explains his process and method of doing things. I have learned a ton just from hanging around, watching and chatting.

This makes me so mad I best not say anything.

Can the outer be re-used or not advisable? Mine is continuous and looks fine. I was looking on CL's website under cables and cannot find what I need here. I'm looking for shimano mtb gear cable but see nothing like that. Can someone give me the product names for inner and outer? I'm just trying to establish basic cost. Do I need anything else like that bit to crimp on the end or is that included?

So, I have been learning about maintenance over time and with help from hubbers and Tech Q&A, I'm slowly getting there. My latest problem is with my rear derailleur cable. A couple of rides back I noticed that my up shifting at the back started to do nothing (misfire) or have a delayed reaction. I found this odd as normally up shifting was always spot on and, if anything, it was normally down shifting that would not be clean or sometimes require some coaxing. I forgot about it and the next time I rode was when things got slightly worse. The up shifting issue continued but now I have no second gear (it skips straight over second from third or first). The only way I can get second is if I hold my down shifter at exactly the right amount of tension or it jumps off to third. Also, when I shift into the big rear cog, my down shifter feels like it has a slightly abnormal bit of play compared with normal. After that ride I think I found the reason but I'd like to know if the above symptoms would be due to this (excuse the cell pics): Cable has done about 3250km. Is this normal wear? What concerns me is that it appears to have broken cleanly at the pinch bolt and only about 1/3 of the strands remain. Is cable replacement a straight forward job or one for the LBS? Cost? Would it be possible or even worth clamping a piece of cloth or other material in there in future to delay this sort of wear? RD is 9 spd SLX. Thanks

Sorted, thanks guys.

Yoh, I started to hear an ominous squeal on my front wheel under braking at about 1500km. Took the pads out for the first time and to my horror I discovered that they were worn through the pads and halfway through the backing. Back pads were down to a sliver. Thankfully the rotors seem ok and all was well after changing.

Mine is a 29er Alex rim (yeah I hear they suck but it's what came with the bike) so hoping it's not too pricey?

Thanks, guys. You know what that would cost roughly?

Today I was giving the steed a clean and noticed that one of my rear spokes is broken - detached at the hub end. I'm clueless about this sort of thing. Is it fixable? What's the procedure? And I'm guessing I shouldn't be riding until it's sorted?

Yikes, there must be some truly awesome places to ride in this country where I have never been because I beam like a kid when I ride the spruit.

Report it to nobody!

Also rode to school on the mtb, come rain or shine - school bag on the back and kit bag on the front. Once or twice I even lifted a fellow school mate who happened to be walking. He would sit on the saddle with all of his kit on his back and I would get out of saddle with weight over the bars. That ended badly once though when my front tyre flattened on a bump under all the pressure, flinging the bars sideways into my groin, sending myself and all of my kit, along with him and all of his kit, over my bars. With arms pinned on the rider side of the bars, myself and kit, along with him and his kit all landed and skidded down the road...on my face. Oh yes! Now you've reminded me of my first hub post: https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/135471-level-of-noobness/page__st__192#entry2224421

Don't know hey. Using an e-bike you'll need a lot of speed and a big jump to look over the walls at Nkandla.

Hah! I'd be happy to just get the 130 for now! Climbing and distance can come later...although now that you mention it, ending a ride at the home of the chicken pie sounds like a dead right idea.

I'm trying to get my boet involved so I'm looking for a 2nd hand mtb for him in the classifieds but it makes me a bit nervous as I'm sure is also the case for the legit sellers. Female friend was conveniently relieved of her cash at gunpoint that she'd collected 5 minutes after selling her bike at a busy public place on a Sunday afternoon. Makes me want to go into murder mode.

Ah, clever approach using the flatness of Brits to your advantage. 143k MTB Fondo - nicely done!

LOL, yeah I was trying to think of the most devastating hill within a 10k radius and it meant I'd have to ride up it 110 times (x2km) to hit that target or face some ludicrous mileage. Fun tiiiimes!

Rapha rising? I must say that one intrigued me but I've been a bit busy. But damn, 8800 meters gain in 9 days? Yikes.

Yar! That's my Aug goal - to Fondo on the trails.

The eTrex can record at one second intervals. It can also record at distance intervals. I just haven't tried it on time-based intervals yet. I have another device to read out my speed etc. but ya, thanks for that.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/flannahs/nf_garmin_eTrex_highRate_zps897f872b.jpg This is Saturday's ride result. I set the garmin to record at its highest rate by distance - every 0.01km. A bit of an improvement but still a bit disappointing. The ride was 80km and GPX file size ended up being 1.3mb with under-read of +-1km. The only other way to get an improvement would be to set it to record by time interval but I think this could cause file size to become unworkable as it would also record at non-moving points.

Maybe he's using internet explorer to post on the hub, in which case...

What I've found is that the timing on segments matches up across platforms - ie. they all agree that x seconds to get from point a to point b is the same thing. Difference comes in on the summary of a ride with regard to average speed, elevation gain and, to a lesser degree, distance.

For the ride pictured in the OP, it is reading 1.5km short for that 40km route. If an entire route was filled with these windy curved bits it would be miles out. On a straight line road ride or similar it's pretty much spot on. Hopefully by upping the recording interval it will solve the problem (although increase file size).

I use it for cycling, hiking and sea kayaking. When I use it for cycling I have it in my back pack and use it to upload rides to strava. For hiking I've used it as a handheld device and it tells me direction and distance to waypoints. Similar story with the fishing ski but on the sea it's in compass mode and tells me distance to waypoints too. Handy little device that.