NinjaManiak

Some Garmin use GPS reading for elevation, but the Edge series uses GPS combined with atmospheric pressure. Ascent is also dependant on the polling/measurement frequency, measurement accuracy, and any smoothing factors applied to the measurements by the software. Example: If you were to ride around and around a flat parking lot and take a measurement every few seconds, you should get no ascent. If you used a more accurate device (say GPS, with base station, altimeter, inclometer, the whole works), and took a measurement every 2 cm, then you'd start measuring "Ascent" on all the speed-bumps and pavements you ride over. Example2: If you drove from CPT to JHB, and took a measurement at each end, your Ascent would be 1500m. If you took more measurements along the way, it might be a bit more... Ninja Maniac2009-09-16 02:06:02

Fruitloop, I'm going to guess you are riding a Scott bike ? Yes / No ?

<sarcasim> Brighter Lights, Not once have you stated your Argus time. Not once have you mentioned doing any of the seeding races (such as the Burger, or 94.7, OFM, etc) So why should you be seeded at this mountain bike race ? </sarcasim>

not only that, but if you want a decent seeding you better start doing some road races. ( AND DO NOT STOP FOR LUNCH IN SIMONSTOWN DURING THE ARGUS )

HTFU

HTFU

#1. The 2010 version (upgraded fork and brakes) has a RRP of $ 9350 #2. The best part about this is that everything matches (custom colors etc.), and here the DT XRC330 wheels have been replaced (arguably the best bit on the bike)

My Giant Yukon (1996) is still going well on the origional hubs and bearings (I think they are Cheng hubs, not sure, probably with loose bearings, again not sure, noone's ever looked). They are absolutely horrible hubs, but still going strong...

I've seated a non-tubeless tire on a non tubeles rim with a hand pump. When I tried the second tyre (same tyre, same rim), it took a couple of bombs, and more than 1 trip to the garage to seat & seal. So it depends...

ad-hoc "singlespeed conversion" 1. disconnect the rear derailleur 2. put the chain in middle ring upfront 3. put the chain on the rear ring that makes the chainline as straight as possible. 4. See if either end of the chain ends with the inner plates. If not, use your chaintool to make one of the ends end in an inner link. 5. Use the chaintool to make the other end also end in an inner link*. YOU NEED TO MAKE IT AS SHORT AS POSSIBLE TO FIT on the selected chainring/cog. 6. Use a powerlink to connect the 2 ends of the chain * if you don't have a powerlink, make this end an outer link end, and use a spare chain pin** ** if you don't have a spare chainpin, reuse one of the pins you pushed out when you shortened the chain. This is not a very good solution, but it will work. You normally need to use the chaintool and hammer (or rock etc) comination to get the outer plates back together.

Never give up (and never surrender) 2 questions: 1. How badly is it damaged. 2. How soon do you want to get it fixed. To answer #1, we need to look at the wheel and derailleur/hanger. 1.1 Does the wheel still work (bend the broken spokes around others and out of the way if required) and is it straight enough to use. 1.2 Is the hanger broken. It's the bit connecting the derailleur to the frame. If it's broken, then one half will still be bolted to the derailleur, and one half to the frame. 1.3 Is the derailleur broken. If may have bent, or snapped in some way after going through the spokes. Possible Scenarios: A. If all are okay, reconnect the derailleur to the bike (hanger). B. If the wheel is okay (but not the hanger and/or derailleur) you can still ride with an ad-hoc "singlespeed conversion". C. If the wheel is too badly bent, order a book called "DT Swiss - The Art of Wheelbuilding" from an online shop as your starting point...

Just a few pointers: 1. Don't change your chain, rings, cassette unless you have to. Unless it's jumping or skipping, you don't really need new ones, and may not notice any performance difference with new ones. 2. Derailleurs don't operate in isolation. If you get a new XXX derailleur, you may not notice the difference if you still use the exisitng cables and shifters. 3. The performance difference between the current low end and high end parts is not always that much, but the weight is often quite significant & noticable. 4. Take what to read/hear on the web/forums with a lot of salt when evalutaing these things.

I use dental floss

THE TEST: If your paunch starts to wobble...

Hardtail = Cheaper/Lighter Softtail = More comfortable

RickyBobby, In Jonkershoek, at the very top of the saddle. The last bit above the bench: Jeeptrack, +/- 1 km Gradient 15%-20% Surface = "basketballs and babyheads" It's perfect terrain for xx" travel AM/DH bikes, but the irony is, that all these lovely AM/DH ones we see here that "are still able to climb" can't get upto the top to begin the run. I recon a good starting qualification for a bike to stand a chance of being called the "BEST MTB BIKE" is to be able to go up and down that section.

As nice as they all LOOK in the adverts, or cleaned up and shiny at home... the best bikes are the ones that can get you places.... and do.

By definition, maximum heart rate is about the point where it packs up, and you die. Because of this I don't think you can really do a test for maximum heart rate. Rather you'd do some tests to predict (or at least narrow down the range) of what your max heart rate is. I got near my maximum rate back in 1994, and don't want to go there again. It was post a 60 second physical effort, was maintained for a few seconds, and afterwards I was unable to do too much anything for a few minutes.

For cross country type bikes +/- 9kg - Carbon fibre nonsense 10kg - All metal 11kg - Stong & reliable 12kg - Not too expensive 13kg - Mid-level off the shelf 14+ - Entry-level off the shelf You can as a rule of thumb add 1kg for dual suspension

firstly, "training wheels" are only found on toddlers bikes. Tubeless tyres = Tyres with reinforced walls, and bead. Tubeless rims = Rims with spoke holes covered Combined they will hold air Tubless kits = Kits to convert normal rims/tyres to hold air, usually with a rim strip (to convert the rim) and sealant (to assist the tyre)

Okay, how is this for service: I can get you guys a DuraAce7900 groupset for R26000. For that price I will include a second complete DuraAce 7900 groupset as backup in leu of "service and backup" Alternatively, I can organize the groupset without too much backup for R13000.

most of the time, one would put the E-Type bracket on the drive side.

HTFU :-)Ninja Maniac2009-07-02 02:21:14

vanderkitten