NinjaManiak

No, nothing like that. Now if my memory serves me correctly, you have about 3 or 4 tricky uphills after corners/ditches (at 0.5, 2 and 2.5 km etc), then the steepest downhill is at 6km, there are a couple of sneaky switchbacks on the descent starting at 8km, and then lots of fast downhill after 16km mark... Nothing too dropoffy or very loose either, trail is definately XC orientated. Take the first lap sloooooow, Take the second lap flat out :-)

Depends where you ride in Tokai. It's maybe not as technical as Tokai's best (ie. riding up the Tokai switchbacks, or Cobra), but there are some long/fast (singletrack) downhills that Tokai doesnt have, and some sudden blind corners (into uphills), that'll get you if you don't know they're there. Overall, if you enjoy Tokai's singletrack, you'll enjoy this.

http://www.thebikelist.co.uk/imagecache/file/width/800/images/models/Cannondale/2009/SCALPEL-FEMININE_09/9ScalpeZeroPivot.jpg

double post. See below...

every argument that is valid for a 29er, will be valid for a 32er. So go, get ahead of the curve...

these are all moo points. This stage/weather looks more dangerous then that second one, so shouldn't the Cancellor go upto the front again to keep it safe. It's not like anything exciting was going to happen anyway...

touche! (but it may have saved you at 1:26)

Nice clip! May I be rude and suggest you select a bigger gear I was getting out of breath just watching...

try www.easygis.co.za

There are two causes of clicking that I've seen on Deore brakes, namely: 1. Air in the brake system 2. Sticky pistons I think your problem is more than likely one of those, in that order. For air in the system, bleed them (which it sounds like you've done right). The easy test you can use for sticky pistons, is to pour some water over/into the brake pad area while you are repeatedly pulling on the lever. If the noise suddenly goes away, you need to clean them. Do this by removing the wheel and brake pads, then pull the lever to get the pistons out A BIT (not too much or you'll push them out and have brake fluid coming out). Then use a rag, or something small like toothbrush to clean them.

That is most likely not a locally backed up Garmin

Either you are generalizing, you misinterpreted the results, the report does not have a wide enough range of tyres/surfaces, or it's just wrong. Why do I say this? Two reasons: 1. It's easier to do the Argus on slicks 2. If you hand-carved a tyre out of a giantredwood tree, it'd have a very low "rolling resistance", be bloody expensive, and probably be banned by the UCI. (The 3 signs for most people that it must be a great tyre) It's horses for courses, else people wouldn't be winning Sea Otter on Maxlite 285's.

things like hitting an unseen rock. you'll also feel the rear rim "hitting/banging" much sooner on rough ground.

I'm only seeing this now. A lot of people here are "playing the man, and not the ball". Not everyone is one dimensional, so asking for something to be censored/removed does not imply they agree/disagree with any specific point of view/views that were represented, merely their opinion on it's suitablilty here.

Guns n' Roses - NOVEMBER RAIN

Yip. What RodTi said. What is it they say about the highest form of flattery. Bad designs tend to be one off, the good ones are refined and come back (like the zula) That Ti-full susser is not limited to Ti bikes. Have a look at the 96, the Scale, the Vertex, the RacerX, the KTM's, etc. Now also have a look at an Anthem etc, and then start counting bikes similar to that...

Those numbers may have come from that old marketeering nemesis, the science textbook. If you were to build a frame from 1 mol of each, maybe what you said was true, but to misquote people misquoting Thomas J, "Not All Mol's are born Equal" http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-materials.html

What are the options for replacing the bolt's on the bike (in this case, specifically the one from the seatpost clamp ? Obviously there are different materials, but are there different grades within each of these ( ie. does a steel bolt always = a steel bolt) I broke ( read: bottomed out & then overtorqued and snapped off the head) my last one, and replaced it with the equvalent (I think) steel one, which cost R0.80 at the local nut & bolt shop. Any thoughts, any knowledge, anything ?

Broke the chain at the Wines to Whales ride. No problem, except that as the chain broke, it got caught in the deraileur pulley, which in turn ripped off the deraillier arm, which in turn ripped off the derailleur hanger, which in turn took out 8 spokes, which in turn all got jammed in the front derailleur and took that out quite nicely. A quick singlespeed conversion sorted that all out, so I finished (and the next day too)