NinjaManiak

1. Pump your front tyre hard enough, so that it does not come off the rim in sharp turns. 2. Pump your rear tyre hard enough so that you can't feel the rim hitting rocks and bumps. Over and Out.

Very sound advice as always Mr Lion. Also look for chainsuck with new chain/old chainrings: http://www.fagan.co.za/Bikes/Csuck/

Drill a small hole in the seatpost (using the V notch at the seatclamp) Thread wire through the hole, and pull

Just take this into account: The bottom chamber is quite small. If you pump it upto say 100 on your pump gauge, then at this point your shock, and pump are both at 100. When you remove your shock, you will hear air being released, that air is from your pump. So now the shock is at 100, your pump at 0. If you immediately reconnect your pump, you will now see a reading of say 80* (*depends on the size of the bottom chamber vs your pump). It's less due to the equilzation of the chamber/pump. Disconnect/Reconnect again at it may be 60 etc... You shouldn't need to pump it for weeks/months, but remember that everytime you connevt your pump, you will have to put some more air in.

Genuis.

Okay. Not so long ago RockShox had 2 "top of the range" forks, namely the REBA, and the SID. Riders chose the Reba if they wanted the best performance, and the SID if they wanted the lightest. Then in 2008, they brought out the new SID, with the 32mm tubes etc. With the new internals (Blackbox Motion Control), it performed better than the Reba, and was still lighter (thus the REBA had no place in the lineup). Therefore, the new REBA was beefed up a bit (can take 203mm rotor vds the SIDs 180 for instance), and also went up in the travel (120mm). It has the same internals as techguy said, but now fits into a new position in the lineup. To answer your question, they are essentially the same, with the Reba beefed up a bit. Now for some anecdotal stuff. I have a SID, it has 3000km on it. I weight 95. I ride it hard. I've used a range of pressures, and have not had any issues. You should be able to ride this as hard as possible (in a cross country sense). If you intend getting airborne, or doing jumps etc. you may want to consider the Reba.

it's a good thing he didn't kick her...

[sARCHASM] Maybe I was too subtle earlier [/sARCHASM] You know what they say about sarcasm, does the same apply to SARCHASM? <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> That's 2 for 2 Swissvan. ( http://sarchasm.net/ ) I wasn't aiming this at you though...

[sARCHASM] Maybe I was too subtle earlier [/sARCHASM]

Good morning hubbers, I'm not sure where to post this, because there is not the appropriate Tutorial in the Forum section. Please can one of you show me how to quote correctly from someone else's post. I'm having some difficulty this morning. Thank you

You forgot a few. Using the same logic' date=' Specialized also make the 382'nd best bike in the Western Cape ( Lourensford 2009 ) [/quote'] And the entry level XC Giant Rock is the 557th best bike in the Western Cape (Die Burger MTB Challenge 2009 42km) Interesting. Maybe we should put all of these in a table, and do a multiple regression/correlation analysis, where http://upload.wikimedia.org/math/c/a/6/ca68fbe94060a2591924b380c9bc4e27.png Then again, lets just use anecdotal evidence. It's easier.

You forgot a few. Using the same logic, Specialized also make the 382'nd best bike in the Western Cape ( Lourensford 2009 )

have you tried charging it ?

It'd be a good idea to get 2. A spare hanger is a sensible thing to carry with you, as most other things can be "borrowed" from partners or passers by, but hangers are fairly specific.

HTFU Bikes are tough. If it's a MTB and you're a bit worried, then you can dilute CleanGreen with some water. If it's a road bike, you can maybe dilute the water with something.

Does anyone know where (locally) I can get some of this, specifically the HXTXXX00NSG20S variant ?

Edman is spot on. Here is another way to look at it: 1. Polar = Full HR + Some GPS Garmin = Full GPS + Some HR I'd suggest that HR is easier to measure, and essentially one dimensional in nature. Thus the difference between some/full GPS functions is bigger than the gap between some/full HR. 2. During Activity / Post Activity If it can measure it, it can plot it and save it in a file etc. So lets assume that both are equally capable in the POST race analysis department ( but with Garmin able to capture ANT+ ) on your PC. During your activity, I think the polar *may* be better with regards to HR levels, targets, enegry used and what's generally going on with you, and the Garmin *MAY* be better at showing you where you are, where you want to go, how to get there and the time/pace/speed taken etc. ( *MAY* > *may*, see point 1),Ninja Maniac2009-09-28 03:56:42

FYI - I started tracking all my consumables and parts with SportTracks, and so far have the following for 2008/9: Schwalbe Racing Ralph: 2960/2864 km Schwalbe Rocket Ron: 438/334 km Maxxis Maxxlite: 510/465 km Maxxis Crossmark: 2755/2755 km All of these tyres I'd consider to still be *Not Out. All of these are non-UST, or tubed (running tubeless) The one Ralph, and Crossmark (the ones that were on the back) are the most worn, and have not got a lot of tread, BUT still work fairly well (except maybe in mud).Ninja Maniac2009-09-28 02:03:56

1. Yes. Should be good for a good few thousand km, so unless you are doing X000km per month until the race... 2. Yes. But DD is fairly flat and dry/dusty isn't it ? You could get specialist tyres for this (SpeedKings, Crows, Ralph, Maxxlite, Fred's etc), but Crossmarks are pretty good for this (especially on the back), are cheaper than many of these, and will no doubt last longer 3. No.

At the end of the day, units with altimeters (polar, suunto, etc) would generally produce better results than units using GPS only (Forerunner, nuvi etc.), and GPS units which also include an altimeter (Edge, Colorado, etc) will produce the best results of all. Units combining both GPS and barometric altimeters are able to provide the most accurate altitude readings, using absolute location provided by the satellite to help auto-calibrate the barometric altimeter, then the barometric altimeter is used to provide a more stable elevation change. The barometric altimeter also allows elevation readings even when GPS signal is not available." Lastly, as much as "ascent" can depend on many variables, so too is the "altitude". Height can be defined in two ways. The ellipsoid height [h], which is the height above the reference ellipsoid that approximates the earth's surface), and the orthometric height [H], which is the height above the geoid, which is an imaginary surface determined by the earth's gravity and approximated by mean sea level (MSL). GPS receivers measure ellipsoid height, and then use an approximation of the geoid height to estimate the orthometric height from the geoid height. Depending on what approximation you use (WGS-84 is normally the standard approximation used) you will get different heights. <?: prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /> Ninja Maniac2009-09-16 12:51:21

Straight line The difference should be minimal, over 1km: At 1% gradient = 5cm At 5% gradient = 1m At 10% gradient = 5mAt 20% gradient = 20m

There are different typres of inaccurate' date=' maybe the whole range will be off (ie. 1000m at Waterfront, and 2000m on Table monutain) which may not effect the ascent reading, but then maybe the scale is effected (ie 0m at waterfront, 5000m on Table monutain), or maybe even jumping around (0m, 166m, 2m, 212m,1m, 234m, 5m, 3423m etc). I'm not sure about this, but I recon that if it ges a reading it should be okay. 10 seconds should be fine. Just remember that you will start to get "precise error" when your readings are too close together, and in the range of the accuracy of the altimeter. Here is an interesting comparison between Forerunner 305, and Edge 705 for the same cours, showing a bit of the old "Precise Error Overmeasurement phenomenon"* * I haven't written the Wikipedia article yet, so you may not be able to google it just yet. Edge 705 [img']https://cdn.bikehub.co.za/uploads2/20090916_074158_Route_53_30-11-.jpg[/img] Forerunner 305 The Edge gave 471m or ascent, and the Forerunner 1580m. However this is with no smoothing. After smoothing is taken into account, the results were Edge 371m, Foreruner 394m. At the end of the day, you need to consider all these factors when quoting the "asccent".