ZeroPlay

SRAM Force is my choice at the moment. More affordable than Red' date=' compatible with my Shimano wheels and even more carbon! [/quote'] Take it from an SRAM Red user - stick with Shimano. Seriously, if I could do it all again, it would be Dura Ace (or even Ultegra). Red issues: If you're in the biggest cog at the back (easiest gear) and don't realise it (because you're going flat out) and try to change to an easier gear, you'll change into a more difficult one (smaller cog). Once you've started moving that single lever, there's no backing out. The front derailleur cage is very narrow. You get chain rub all over the show and there's no trim for the small chainring. I had to spread the front cage by putting two small washers in with the spacer at the back to get it even vaguely useable, and I have a longish wheelbase bike (57cm Colnago), so this chain rub problem should be even worse on smaller bikes with more aggressive geometry (shorter chain stays). BB bearings - despite the claims on the packaging that the super-exensive ceramic bearings don't run freely initially because of tight seals and this will clear up with use, mine still don't run very freely and I've ridden them for many months. The BB shell has been faced and chases, so it's not a cup allignement issue. The hollow steel cassette causes serious noise (rattle). In fact, the whole SRAM chain-cassette combo is noisy and doesn't change as impressively as Shimano. Some people (me included - see my previous posts) have had problems with the comfort of the SRAM Red hoods. I think I've sorted that out now by making sure that I don't run any bar tape under the tops of the hoods (which makes wrappign the bars quite tricky) and filling the gap where the tops of the hoods meet the bars with cut up bits of extra bar tape. I never had to go to those lengths with Shimano. I briefly had a 2nd hand Campag Chorus group a couple of years back. I never rode it, but from installing and adjusting it, I decided that Shimano was my preference. Don't be tempted to avoid Shimano because you want your new dream bike to be different - I made that mistake and have some regrets.

I have tried small adjustments, but will try some more extreme ones now that I'm going to remove the bar tape anyway.

I'm in IT too, so you may be onto something. The pics I'm seeing here seem to show that the hoods are slightly raised where they contact the bars, but it doesn't seem to bother the people who are posting the pictures. So maybe it depends on how tough (or not) your hands are.

I've bought a set of these bars http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Images/Models/Full/30381.jpg They're Pro PLT Compact bars. I got them for my singlespeed, but I might try them on my geared road bike since the curve is very different to the smooth, rounded one of my FSA bars. Looking at the "curve", the main part of the drop is almost straight down instead of curved. I reckon I should be able to move the levers down that section until the top of the hoods are flush with the tops of the bars just before the drop starts. Will let you know how that goes when I get time to try it.

Thanks for posting the pic. My tape is wrapped pretty much like yours. The section where the top of the levers meets the bars does look a little raised on your bike too. Is it still comfortable for you?

Thanks for the responses so far. Can those of you who have SRAM red plese do me a favour an check if your bartape runs under the hood on the top of the lever where your palm would rest? Maybe it is the bar tape causing the bump on mine? A photo of how your tape is wrapped in that area would also be great (if you find your SRAM Red levers and hoods comfy) if possible. Thanks.

Does anyone else find SRAM Red brake lever hoods uncomfortable? Mine have a definite bump (or bulge) on top where they meet the bars and it tends to press into my palms when riding on the hoods and eventually cause some discomfort. I'm wondering if this is caused by the bars and levers not matching well. I have some FSA compact bars with a very round (classic) curve. Or maybe it's caused by the way I've wrapped my bar tape? There is a single layer under the hoods at the bulge, but I can't seem to wrap the bars any other way without leaving gaps in the tape. Or maybe it's just the way the hoods and levers are designed? Most reviews rave about the comfort of SRAM Red hoods and levers, but I'm experiencing the opposite.

I just want to know. Why? Curiosity. It's been bugging me since I saw the claim a long time ago. So has quantum physics, but this is probably easier to put to rest. Or is it? (pass the popcorn, please)

I've read the claim that when a downward force is applied to a hub in a spoked wheel (e.g. when you're sitting on your bike), the tension of the spokes above the hub is not increased, but the tension of the spokes below the hub is decreased. The hub is "standing on the lower spokes". It is not "hanging on the upper spokes" or equally distributing the downward force by both "hanging" and "standing". Have I presented the claim correctly? This claim seems very counter-intuitive to me. Can anyone point me to a website or other source that explains this in a simple way? Or maybe explain it to me in this thread? By analogy: Consider a bow (as in "bow and arrow") with a completely rigid frame and a bowstring under tension, orientated as you would hold it when shooting. If one pinches the string at some point along its length and pulls the string down (while the frame is held in place), is there only a decrease in tension of the bowstring below the point where you are pinching and no corresponding increase in tension above the point where you are pinching?

By far the easiest length to resell (if you ever want to) is 172.5mm I'm 1.78m tall and 172.5mm feels best to me. I also ride 175mm on MTB and on one of my road bikes, but prefer 172.5mm.

Chris Willemse Cycles is giving away a HRM if you buy a pair of Michelin Pro Race 2 road tires. http://www.cwcycles.co.za/michelin_pro2_light_with_free_sigma_pc_9_heart_rate_monitor__.html

The only things you want to be putting in paraffin are the chain and cassette. Just wipe the rest clean with rags. If, for example, you dump the rear d?railleur into paraffin, you'll probably never get it working properly again. There are some heavy springs where the cage holding the jockey wheels pivots and it's usually difficult to open it up to relube and very difficult to wind the heavy spring up again if it comes loose. For the STIs (Ergo shifters), pulling the brake lever to expose the internals and spraying them thoroughly with WD40 (so that it drips and runs out, carrying the dirt with it) is the accepted way of cleaning. It's probably good to spray in a lube afterwards - WD40 is apparently is more of a solvent than a lube, so it cleans well but doesn't lube well. Remember to angle the bike so that the stuff drips down into a container on the floor - not all over your bar tape. The bike will probable have the rear wheel higher than the front to achieve this. The thing which usually makes the biggest difference to rejuvinating a groupset is putting on new cables. You'll need some serious cutters to get through gear cable housing, though. All these things take a lot of experience to get right, so maybe get someone whith some "stripping" experience to help for the first few times. ZeroPlay2008-11-18 03:09:32

175

Cannondale, Ravo and Raleigh are probably the brands you should consider. Ravo is probably only available 2nd hand now. I think the Ravo frame is made in the Kinesis factory in Taiwan - same as the Raleigh. I've raced on the Ravo and was impressed, although I can't really compare it to any other make since it's the only tandem I've ridden.

You guys are too sweet! I think R3K is too much, personally. Don't be nice just because I'm a psycho freak who spent hundreds of hours building and maintaining this bike. I won't take offence and hunt you down with a chain whip - I promise. ... It'll be one of those big old-style headset spanners.

Hi. I'm thinking of selling this Battaglin (see description and pics below). What sort of price should I be looking for? Frame: Battaglin 56cm, Oria alu tubing + alu fork (threaded steerer). Wheels: Mavic Open Pro, 105 hubs, 32 Sapim straight guage spokes. Tyres: Conti Gatorskin Cranks: Campag Chorus 53/42 BB: Campag Chorus (square taper) Shifters: Shimano LX Rapid Fire 9spd Cassette: Shimano 105 9spd 12-25 Rear Deraileur: Shimano 105 (from 9spd group) Front Deraileur: Shimano Ultegra (from 9spd group) Chain: KMC 9000 Brakes: Shimano 600 EX (single pivot) Brake Levers: Shimano SLR Bars: Cinelli Stem: Some Jap alu job (quill) Saddle: Sella Italia Octavia Genuine Gel Seatpost: Zeus alu Bar Tape: Deda Mechanically, the bike is absolute perfection. I am a bit of a freak when it comes to bike maintenance. All bearings are perfect, bordering on frictionless. The bike is a bit heavy by modern standards (about 10kg I guess), but it makes up for some of this by being extremely stiff. It certainly feels like there's no power loss to flex when pushing hard, however unscientific that may be. I'm comparing it to my Litespeed Antares and my Colnago Extreme C. Ideas, please? ZeroPlay2008-10-27 03:38:49

Riiiiiight! That story is just so convincing. Who "raided" CWC? Exactly what law was being broken? Is Hi-Fi Corp next on the list?