Bike Lore

Time is running out for this big boy. Only 6 likes required before the competition closes. "Like" our fan page and enter the draw. The big night is this Wednesday after the Mass ride from BMT Stellenbosch starting 19h00. Come join us http://www.facebook.com/pyrolights

http://www.facebook.com/pyrolights and hit like!!!

The "like" campaign is on 978 likes and there is only 22 like to go. the draw is the 5 September

The draw for the winner of the Pyro2000 will be held on the 5th Sepemberr at BMT Stellenbosch check out the event!!! http://eepurl.com/oVvvP only 31 entery left.

40 likes left!!!

Well if you buy to invest it is a very easy matrix. but for your self it is not.

Make a matrix to help you List the bikes as the columns and then use your gut to rate the components. Bike 1 bike 2 bike 3 Fork 4 3 4 Shifters 3 3 3 Brake 2 5 3 Drive train 2 2 2 F derailer 5 5 5 Rear derailer 5 4 4 Rims 3 3 3 etc ... .. .. etc ... .. .. etc ... .. .. SUM total 100 80 94 Price R9500 R7500 R8500 Matrix 10.5 10.6 11 = Sum/price*1000 What i do to make it easy is to give the best components in a range from the manufactuer the hightest rating For example Shaman XTR = 5 pint XT = 4 point SLX = 3 point Then divide the points with the cost and see which is the highest. Then buy the one you want regardless of above result .....

Woopa!!! only 86 likes to go before we close this competition!!!

I bet it was a Carbon road bike.

I want one!!!

875!!! Let see if we can get to 900 before Sunday.

Been there done and lost the t-shirt Hope you find someone.

Here are some pictures to compare the Fluxient 3000 3xT6 98 Lux with the 1200 Lumen 10W CREE XML 29 lux http://media.someammo.com/5892982e1f14/s200-3000_630W.png http://media.someammo.com/77f3a8a29238/s200-1200_630W.png To think you can see that for 3h!!!

The ic's markings are removed so there is no way to say. But the LEDs are connected in serrie so it must be a boost. There not boosting much with the voltage only being 10V on the LED and 8.4-6.6 on the battery pack. It would have been better if they had 3 drivers for each LED but that would dive cost up. at the end all we really want is lots light for cheap. And this light does that well What I find interesting is that the 7 LED Trustfire got more than double the amount of light. 203 Lux vs 98 lux. http://www.extremeli...o.za/comparison I did not expect that. I will have to put some time in to why that is. I thought the Trustfire would be about x1.5 not x2 What is cool to see is that the Extreme3000(98 lux) is 3.3 times a bright as the Extreme1200(29 lux) That is a classical example where thermal protection allows the designer to push the LEDs much harder.

I noticed that people are missing a gem that can be fond only on the hub in SA. There are so meany lights out there that it must be unbelievably hard to find one that suits your needs. What compounds the problem is that numbers are inflated to improve sales. Some of the cheaper lights claim stuff like 1600 lumen out one Cree XML LED. If you know anything about the subject you will know how impossible that is. You can always go for a brand light and play safe but that is a costly option. So I am taking this time to just point you to a light that I discovered that really is out there with the big boys. The Fluxient 3000. Yes i do sell the light but that does put me in the position to compare them much better than anyone else can. First I need to say that Pyrolights which are manufactured by Magicshine have proven them self. They cost more because they spend a lot of time to design a high quality light. With that they have build a name for them self which is what you are paying for when you buy that light. Fluxient is a new player on the field and from what I can see there going to give magicshine a go for there money. What really stands out for me is that fact that it uses 3 XML and drives them equally. Compared to the Micky mouse type where the side lights can't be powered as much a the main LED due to heat problems. http://media.someammo.com/592ba4edac89/3000-lumen_630W.pnghttp://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v1/535995207_1/1Set_A6_3800_Lumens_3T6_CREE_XM_L_3_X_T6_LED_Bicycle_Light_3_Modes_Bike_Front_Light_8_4V_6400mAh_Battery_Pack_Charger.jpg_200x200.jpg Mounting is first class. But the best part about this light is its mounting. http://www.bikelights.co.nz/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/f/l/fluxient_bikelights.co.nz_image.jpg It is an easy clip on quick release mounting. it comes with 3 sizes rubbers and will fit any shape handle bar. you can clip of the light and leave the clamp one the bike. The clamp can swivel from side to side about 15 deg. This allows you to point the light down the middle of the road even if it is not mounted in the middle . Light output One thing that irked me is that there over-claiming the output. But that is not new for a china lights. The real question is how much do they over claim and well from the power it uses I can say it should be between 2200-2500 lumen. That is a huge amount!!!! On low mode you can expect it to outshine the old MJ808 with its 800 real lumen for 9h. TBC http://media.someammo.com/52225b797761/beam-pattern_630W.png The beam pattern is perfect. It is wide and has a good transition from flood to hot spot. it does not have a very sharp hot spot at all so the amount of light is very well used. Generating a even lux level over the aria in-front of you More Features At the end this light packs a lot of punch with the 8800mAh 8.4V battery pack. As one should expect the battery pack is protected for over and under voltage. I have noticed that some of the really cheap lights does not have this. It is a must for a battery pack to survive and this lights as it. You also get the features of a high end light for example; temperature protection and battery low level warning. The light dims when it over heats and the button changes red when there is less than 10% power remaining. For R1499 this is a steal. It might suffer from the over blueish white that all lights have using low cost T6 but with this much light who really cares.... http://media.someammo.com/e881aa35aff0/boxset_630W.png This light combined with the Extreme 1200 light for a helmet light makes for a perfect match. http://media.someammo.com/53ad36b5e76c/extremelights-1200_630W.png if you where looking for a high powered light this is the one.

:-) it is kind of snowballing at the moment which is nice. In the beginning i had to push the advert every day. Now i get 50 likes a week.

We are on Pyro Lights · 804 like this. only 196 to go!!!!

buy the one you like the most. the rest don't matter really. if you like your ride you will ride more

see maybe the 2000 lumen light will be better ? surly you can see that photo right? No editing was done. ISO200, exposure time 1s. That is the same settings you can use when shooting photos indoors. You can everything see that tree that is 65m away. Sadly there is no "magic" in lights as marketing tells us. If you want distance you are correct in saying that you need a very deep reflector or a narrow accumulator. Funny thing is that for most having a wide beam is preferred over having a narrow beam. Just a small increase in width require a lot more light(lumen) to maintain the same brightness(Lux). it is a squired relation. Most people are impressed by laser type lights at first. When someone goes to a cycle shop the first thing they do is turn it on and point it to a well illuminated wall. If it makes a bright dot then they go ooow. What they don't know is that you can have 10x the amount of light in the side spill that is not perceivable in the shop environment. it is impressive if your lights shines all the way to the next farm. Sadly not very useful when cycling but hey it is a cool braai trick. At the moment most manufacturer make use of exactly the same LED, the Cree XML. Therefore to get more light you need more power. higher bins does not really make that much of a deference so lets not go there. More power means more heat and bigger batteries. that is a law of physics. No big brand name can break the law of physics. So then there is the problem of life time. Cree recommend not driving there LEDs above 2/3 the maximum power rating. There are two ways to mitigate the effect of doing so. First is thermal monitoring of the LED. Logic: To hot then reduces the power. The second way is to limit to amount of power to the LED from get go. That is playing it safe. I have had more complaints from people about this Thermal dimming of Pyrolights vs no complaints about the fact the Extreme 1000 and Ryder lights are not as bright as other 1000 lumen lights. How funny is that? Take for example the Magicshine MJ868 or Pyro1100 it cost more to buy from magicshine than the selling price is of the "1200 lumen copies" 3 years ago most lights did not monitor the LED temperature at all. That is no longer the case. High power lights all do for-example Magcishine, Lupine, L&M and many more. there lights are brighter because of only one reason. MORE POWER is used. The Cheap lights require less power therefore lower grade batteries, cheaper electronics because the LED and driver is not over stressed. If you where to open a Magicshine Mj868 and Mj880 and compare it to above mentioned lights I don't think you will be able to say one is better. I like the analog between a paint/light and paint bucket/ power. if you have the same amount of paint to start with then you can ether paint a thin layer and get a larger area covered or a thick layer will cover a smaller area. Need more paint then you need a bigger bucket. Same with light, wider light = less throw, More light = more power = less run time. Like i have said before. there is not magic in lights. well not with everyone using the same LED in any case.

700 Likes!!!! We are only 300 likes away from ending our "Win an Pyro2000" competition. The first 1000 people that "Like" our site on facebook stand a chance in winning a Pyro 2000 Lumen cycle light. http://www.pyrolights.co.za/win-a-pyro-2000

brake less

Hi I have taken the liberty to put a few reviews of this product on the hub here. www.TheHubsa.co.za by Cyclocross 18 June 2012 MagicShine/Pyrolight comparative review on the hub by GBguy 8 June 2012 www.MTBMadness.co.za Light Up Your Ride! 10 July 2012 Light Up Your Ride! www.MTBMadness.co.za http://www.mtbmadness.co.za/templates/themeHome/images/logo.png In the beginning of winter I started looking for a bike light so I can continue riding at night. Actually, I just ride from my house to Epic Sports, hang out, and go back home. They close at 6pm so by the time I leave there it's dark out. Being a mountain biker in a city I try to stick to the side of the road, but you have to ride on the road sometimes, boring as it may seem. The point is that you need to be noticed. Riding alongside the road and being flashed by a car because your light is too bright makes me smile every time. The cool thing is that a few years ago there weren’t any of these powerful shining lights on the market. There were lights, but compared to the ones you find on the market today, they were useless. With the average lifestyle being just about chaos from 8am to 5pm during the day, it gets difficult to actually go out and do some training. Cyclists can now ride until late even if it’s in the summer. You’ll be noticed quickly and you’ll have at least 2 hours’ worth of riding time before the battery dies out. I had two lights to check out for the last three weeks. I’ve actually just been so busy that I didn’t have the time to write anything. This isn’t me comparing the two lights with each other as they’re not in the same lumen category. It's two different lights from two different companies. Pyro Lights sent me their 2 000 lumen light and Ag sent me their 1 200 lumen light. Both lights are small, neat and tidy. I guess they all are, but the last thing I want on a ride at night is this bulky thing on my handlebar. The Magicshine light from PyroLights http://www.mtbmadness.co.za/images/stories/img_6282.jpg Magicshine from Pyro Lights has got a massive battery back which they claim can last 2.3 hours on full blast. I did a couple of rides with it and it only turned to the blue light (70% battery life left) on the last ride I took with it. It switches over to red when it reaches 40%. It flashes red when you reach 10%. The light carries two bulbs. This helps make the beam shine wider. You’ll want as much area covered as possible when riding in a very dark section, obviously. Don’t look straight into that thing. You’ll end up being blind for a minute or two. I’m not too sure if you can buy a helmet-mountable bracket or strap for this light but I don’t think you actually need one. It’s not like you’re going to use a 2 000 lumen light to braai your meat on a Saturday night. The battery and light mount neatly on your bike using little rubber straps which you can slide into little slots just so the excess straps don’t get in the way. The cable is a bit too long seeing that the light is made to be mounted on the handlebar and the battery mounts on your frame. It says on the box: “The benefits of a 4000k and high CRI light are: Reduced eyestrain Improved focusing response Accurate colour rendering and representation Improved contrast perception Superior depth perception” It’s like these guys actually took it to some eye lab to get it tested so you won’t need reading glasses as soon as you think. I like that the light is small yet massively bright. The battery seems a bit bulky but I guess it comes down to “better safe than sorry”. The 2 000 lumen light needs to keep running somehow. http://media.someammo.com/6aaa1cba5660/advert-ebay-2_610W.jpg "(Hannes Z) I have replaced the photo on the site with this one because the camera was on auto when the photo was taken. Auto white balancing at night does not work very well. The photo on the site is therefor not representative of what you will experiences"

Elliptical chain ring are better because it said so on TV

I should have entered this year.