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nick_the_wheelbuilder

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Everything posted by nick_the_wheelbuilder

  1. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    More ding-resistant yes.
  2. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Without having the wheel in my own truing stand it’s hard to comment and I hate being a keyboard warrior. It looks from the video like there’s one spoke that needs an adjustment and that would sort out that small hop, but yes, it’s not perfect. Just have it trued, would take any wheel builder 10 min or less. Something many people don’t realize is how easily a carbon rim can go out of true if a tight tyre is installed. I’ve seen spoke tensions drop over 20% once a tight tyre has been mounted, and the rim goes all wobbly, when previously it was arrow-straight. It’s more important that all spokes are at the appropriate tension and consistent, and not all over the map.
  3. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    32h will be the best for durability obviously, but for lighter riders (under 95kg) 28h is fine, especially with strong rims. The main reason 28h came about, I believe, is for straight pull spoked hubs that can't fit 32 spokes due to their design. For 95% of riders, there's no functional difference between 32 & 28 spokes. Want the best durability, go for 32. Want to save every last gram? 28 is fine.
  4. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Light rims save precious seconds during a race. When a light rim breaks, it adds hours to your ride and $$$ to fix. Personally I gravitate to durability over light weight, but there are a few options I enjoy that are light enough and strong enough. The new (ish) Stan's Arch Mk4 are sub-500g (light enough) while being really durable at the same time. The Flow EX3 rims are, in my opinion and experience, the most robust rims available.
  5. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Cool bananas. The Rapide stuff certainly is super value and I've always celebrated the quality.
  6. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Arch Mk4 = 481g Zero MT25 approx 450g Spank Spike = approx 525g
  7. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Hey Theo, even if you lose 10kg, you'll still be kinda on the limit for the Rapide rims - I like them too though. My advice is to spend once, ride forever. The best options right now available locally for you are: Zero MT25 @ R1695 each (25mm inner) Stan's Arch Mk4 @ R2290 each (28mm inner) Spank Spike Race 33 @ R1895 each (28mm inner) Hope this helps.
  8. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Here’s something crazy: https://off.road.cc/content/news/the-terra-clx-ii-is-rovals-lightest-gravel-wheelset-12319 £2500 gravel wheels from Roval.
  9. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    I definitely can't argue that prices have become silly. I've seen prices on wheel parts go up 30%-40%+ over the past 7 years. I used to be able to build a premium alloy set for R10k. That's now R14k.... Same with bikes, right? What's the price of a top-of-the-range racing MTB? R200k+? If your MTB costs R90k (not unrealistic these days) and you spend R30k on wheels, that's only a third of the value of the bike. Did your entry-mid-range alloy hardtail cost R40k? Is it reasonable to spend R10-15k on wheels? It's a fascinating discussion because everyone has a different perspective on the value for money you get on cycling equipment. Have you seen that PRIME energy drink? R400 for a can. Is it good value? Hell no, but they're selling like hot-cakes.
  10. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Thank you!
  11. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    You're not wrong! But yes, some people prioritize (and can afford) these kinds of wheels. Have you ever ridden a 1300g wheelset on your MTB, with Spez Fasttrack or Maxxis Aspen tyres? It feels like you have added 50w to your power. I build about 1 or 2 sub-1500g carbon wheelsets (R25-35k) a month for customers who are NOT racing for podiums. Never forget that for many people cycling is a hobby and a passion, and they do it for enjoyment. In the same way a hobbyist photographer spends R70k on a new lens for his R30k camera.... or a golfer spends R40k on the nicest clubs.
  12. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Yes, it's a lot of cash, but comparing apples with apples, their pricing is in line with the rest. A set of Bontrager Kovee RSL wheels sells for R47k. https://www.trekbikes.com/za/en_ZA/equipment/cycling-components/bike-wheels/mountain-bike-wheels-and-wheel-sets/bontrager-kovee-rsl-30-tlr-boost-29-mtb-wheel/p/37181/?colorCode=black Add a set of DT Swiss 240 EXP hubs to the South rims, and lace them with quality bladed spokes, and pay the wheel builder, and you're looking at a sticker price for a wheelset of around R39k. R8 000 cheaper than the equivalent Bontragers.....
  13. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Nice to see the guys at South coming to the party with weights that others have been able to produce for a while now. They've become a serious option for those looking for superlight wheels, previously only available from international brands. Looking forward to building up some of these superlight rims. I just wish that nipple washers weren't required as they add precious time to the build process.
  14. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    No, moved to Wilderness near George 3 years ago. 95% of the wheels I repair or build go in a box, with a courier, somewhere else
  15. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    If you can tweak out the vertical dings, do it. Be careful about the horizontal surface where the tyre bead seals. If this is dented in, it may prevent the tyre from sealing properly. Often, when rims are dinged like that, they go out of true as well, because of the now not-round rim and loose and tight spokes. Alloy rims aren't that costly. so if in doubt, have the rim replaced. DT Swiss have some "enduro" rims like the M502 and E532 available in SA for under R2k, but also consider the EX511 from DT, Spank 359 and the Flow Mk4 or Flow EX3 from Stan's NoTubes. The Flow EX3 is THE strongest alloy rim currently on the market.
  16. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Ya same story. They're all pretty reliable, just slightly disconcerting that many options force you to use the Post Office....
  17. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Road rims are like hens teeth locally. I’ve taken to using distributors in Europe, UK and China. R2-bike is ok but the stuff takes 4-6 weeks to arrive. Starbike is the same. CRC has limited options.
  18. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Lighter rims are certainly the best place to shave weight from a bike, and it's where you'll feel the difference most as well. Decent carbon rims will cost you R7-10k each. Rims only. If that's not within your budget, don't even consider carbon, and yes, 2nd-hand carbon is risky. New Stan's Crest Mk4 rims weigh 399g each. As light as you can safely go on a 29er MTB, and come in around the R2k mark, per rim. In contrast, you can easily shave 100g per rim if you look at similar (25mm inner width) carbon rims. That's the difference between a 1700g alloy wheel set and a 1500g carbon set, using the same hubs. Is 200g worth R10-15k extra on a wheel set? Only you can decide...
  19. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    I think it's a really novel concept. However.... I believe it's a (very expensive) solution to a non-existent problem. Are they light? Sure. Light enough to justify the price? Not in my opinion, especially in South Africa. They're also a pain in the neck to build wheels with - you need special tools, special hub preparation, time needed overnight for the spokes to stretch and settle. Cool concept. Terrible value for money. I'll still build you a set of wheels with them if you ask
  20. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Just wanted to show off a wheel I just built. It was commissioned by someone who converted their bike to a 750w e-bike that destroys rear wheels. Stan's Flow EX3 rim laced to a Hope Pro4 hub (steel freehub) with e-bike rated DT Swiss Alpine III spokes and Pillar brass nipples. This one should still be around by the time humans have colonized Mars
  21. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    As many of you know, I build wheels. I was asked the other day by a customer to do a comparison of wheels I could build with some big name brand, factory-built ones. Turns out, I can provide a set of wheels with almost the same specs (and assembled with my own 2 hands) at effectively half the price. (Yes, I know the wheels in the pic are rim-brake) Fascinating really, because with budget alloy MTB wheels it's the other way round!
  22. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Yup, their hubs are decent, and affordably-priced. They have nice big flanges too, which helps create a sturdy wheel. Freehub engagement is quick enough and they're convertible between freehub standards. I thought they were made in Taiwan, (like everyone else) but I stand to be corrected.
  23. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    Do a proper patch job and tubeless will be fine. I've sewn and patched tyres with massive cuts and slashes in the sidewall and they've lasted well.
  24. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    I couldn't agree more. In my personal experience I've swapped MTB hub bearings when they've become sloppy or rough at between 5 000 and 10 000 km mileage. (Hope hubs) On good road hubs you can probably get away with many more miles than that! Cup-and-cone bearings need maintenance more often to keep them smooth and prevent damaging the inner race which is part of the hub shell.
  25. nick_the_wheelbuilder
    I know I'm biased, but steel is real. Compliant, repairable and sexy. Check out the offerings from Cotic.co.uk
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