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RossW

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Everything posted by RossW

  1. Okay, I've had a look. The pads are not 100% in contact; about 1mm is running outside(above) the rotor. LBS says there is nothing that can be done due to the adapters all being the same size. It could help by taking out washers between the caliper and adapter....
  2. I have fitted the Tiger Claw and WOW, it's a BIG tyre. Big big volume and the 2.4 is very generous. Looks like I'm running a MX tyre.... I actually think it is too big.
  3. Hey, I've just fitted new, 160mm rotors to replace my old 160mm rotors. PROBLEM! The new rotors only have the brake pads touching only the outer 2/3, at best of the rotor. Am I destined to lose the inner 1/3 of the usable portion of the rotor? Tavis822010-05-06 05:02:04
  4. I have received my Tiger Claw. Thought I would put pics up before I mount it. From handling it, the side walls feel thin - much like my SB8 DTC's. I have the 2.4 and it looks big!
  5. I have the monorail in front - great work it's doing.
  6. Are there ever courses in the DBN area? And of course how much? I just paid R1174 for my RP23 and Recon Race to be serviced, granted bushes were replaced. Nevertheless, I'd love to learn how to do it myself and have the feeling at the end that you not only saved money but also did an awesome job.
  7. Mmm, I had problems getting mine to seal along the rim but that was because they had been folded for a while. The tube idea sounds solid. Otherwise I found that by having the valve at the top and by pressing down on the tyre directly above the valve, it can seal it enough to get it up and there after the sealant can do its thing. I only had a floor pump so I was absolutely bushed after doing mine, ha ha, took an age but great first time experience.
  8. I run them tubeless. I use the non-UST tyre, the DTC version. Sealing than bad boy was another story! So many pinholes on the sidewalls that I am wondering whether I have any Stan's left Look, I don't have any of that sharp edge shale around here, only dolorite, stumps and leaf litter. But then I'm also not worried as I am a real light weight, 64kg with my hydration pack and fully kitted out. Relating to XTC1's comment; I ride my SB8 at 26psi on my full sus and have not had one problem - touch wood. Interesting comment XTC1, I'm most excited that you had a decent experience with them in the wet at W2W. From some of my experiences here, they clear quickly if and when they do pack with mud a bit. On a side note, even at my weight I am starting to notice wear from my occasional ride on tar to get to my local trail (maybe 25km max on tar as a total) and I have only put about 200km on the tyre. Hope that makes sense ...
  9. Zula; I love my SB8 on rocks. All those little lugs deform to the shape of the rock and stick! They do better on ricks than my monorail which I have up front. I did Karkloof on Tuesday and had a lot of rock on the single track and I was all smiles.
  10. I'll give a review in the next two weeks on the Tiger Claw. UPS has mine in transit for R167 per tyre. If I forget, remind me in a fortnight.
  11. Hey Clint, I have a SB8 as a rear tyre. In the dry it climbs like a mountain goat! Which is great for the PMB area where I do all my riding. As a front I can not comment - not been there but I am hesitant to use it as a front; it just doesn't have the bite needed to steer with in my opinion. So you ride in loose over hard-pack conditions. It will not be a bad option I would say. If it will be able to get through the gravel it will stick like mad to the hard stuff! I will not hesitate to buy another SB8 when my one wears out.
  12. Since getting the fright of my life this morning concerning that this tyre provides very little grip, I have done extra extra research. All reviews say that it is similar to the Killer Bee which many say is better than the Racing Ralph. They are also very light and supple which in my book is a big plus. I guess time and trial and error will give me the best answer.
  13. Bugger! I just bought myself one for the front ... Mmm, I hate spending money on rubbish although, maybe it will work/suit me. Will let you know in a couple of weeks when I've had a chance to fit and ride them.
  14. Ha ha ha, this is getting more and more complicated by the minute! I see Trek offers a 53.5cm seat tube and it has a 55.7cm effective top tube. Seems this is traditional sizing rather than compact? Madone range... Which is labeled as a 56cm (S) The Eddy Fit (cm) ------------------------------------------- Seat tube range c-c: 54.3 - 54.8 Seat tube range c-t: 55.9 - 56.4 Top tube length: 52.0 - 52.4 Stem Length: 9.5 - 10.1 BB-Saddle Position: 69.4 - 71.4 Saddle-Handlebar: 51.0 - 51.6 Saddle Setback: 6.1 - 6.5
  15. That's not good news! I guess I'm looking for a 54 C-C then rather than a 52 top tube. I'll have to see what pops here and also go try sizes at LBS ...
  16. @Tankman - Thanks for the link. Shows I need a C-C of 54cm and top tube of 52cm for an Eddy fit. Will start using the TT as reference for fit because of the compact frames potentially confusing me.
  17. You are spot on, it is a M What is a compact frame? Do you therefore get two or more types of road frames? As you can see, I'm pretty new to this road thing.
  18. @Mampara: My Santa Cruz has a 58cm top tube so I need to ask people for a 55cm top tube on road bikes? Would this not correspond to a XXcm seat tube which people may be more used to?
  19. Hey everyone, With winter up and coming I am looking at getting a road bike - my first! Having the road bike means more training to me with help of street lights etc ... But this is not why I am here. My question is on how to decide what size bike I need. I have heard that one should measure your inseam and multiply by a fraction. Inseam : 74cm Now what size bike should I be looking at? Seen a good couple here recently for really good prices so would like to strike while the iron is hot. Thanks everyone
  20. Amen to the Superlight Climbs like a mountain goat and descends ever so smoothly. I could not be happier. And you can get them to weigh a decent amount. I have mine at 11.3kg with a Recon Race RS and my new Hope Pro II's and 355's. Under 11kg is should not be a problem.
  21. My Santa Cruz Superlight (M) weighed in at 2.56kg, ex headset but including FD. Koukie, the only other frame I would go to is Morewood! Maybe it's because I live in PMB and they are simply a master piece! I can not see the Volcan weighing less then 2.3kg ... They are all in the same weight class in my mind but other than a SC, I would take the Morewood!
  22. Mmm, I'm also looking at the F120 R but can NOT find a review for it on the net.... Maybe my searching skills are lacking The fork is going for a real song though on CRC, R2870 before VAT and handling etc but still, should not come to more than R3200! I'm wanting to upgrade my Recon Race single air on my Santa Cruz Superlight. While it does have the 15QR I'm also looking at getting the Hope Hoops which come with the adapter for the larger axle.
  23. I'm on my second chain on my current cassette (PG980) and it's still looking good. Your cassette will deteriorate under both new and old chains but faster under the old/worn chain. As primative as it may be, I just use the Park Tool chain length tool and change when it is just going to 0.75 wear.
  24. Morewoodkid, you don't have any going here in PMB?
  25. Okay, so decided on the Hope Pro II's and 355's. Now, where do I get them locally and for how much? I'd love to support the LBS if I can. I also want DTSwiss 2.0/1.8/2.0mm spokes.
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