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Mr lee

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Everything posted by Mr lee

  1. 180 front and rear for me....114kg's, full sus.
  2. So what did you decide to do?
  3. I think this has more to do with the fact that 75% of the time new bikes come with tubed tyres and in order to go tubeless you need to get a decent tubeless tyre anyway! It is however great that Titan are selling most or all of their bikes with TR tyres even though they may not be the best tread for everyone's application. It at least helps anyone new into the sport/(hobby ) to go tubeless without the added expense!
  4. ....or you could do one better and get the 2017 96 800 which has FOX32 and Fox float as well as the full SLX M7000 groupset (which includes, if memory serves me correct, Ice-Tech brake rotors). You should find one of these for less than 30K too! All you need to convert this to 1x11 is to purchase the appropriate sized chainring and then remove the front derailleur and shifter....sell those as well if you need to EDIT: It comes with the ICE-TECH RT70 160mm/180mm rotors
  5. You could probably find a 2017 Merida 96 600 (black/blue) for around 20-22K if you looked around enough and then still have some Moohla left over to upgrade the drive train and buy some better tyres.... If the specials are still on at CWC you could go SLX M7000 1x11 as well as SLX M7000 brakes. Then sell the components that you removed to recover some funds Note that the tyres that come with the bikes you have listed do not come with tubeless ready tyres! They can be converted but do not have sidewall protection and as such have thin sidewalls. Do the tubeless conversion yourself as it is easy and very cheap if you get your tyres on special
  6. Just get the Rapide 25mm rims and rebuild them onto your current hubs...you might even be able to use your original spokes if they are the right length! Really not worth buying a complete wheelset. Rather put that money towards a full sus! https://www.rapide.co.za/product/rapide-tr29-25-29er-rim/ Don't go wider than a 2.2 on the rear....especially the EXO casing as it stretches more than the LUST casing (thinner)!
  7. What is normal? List the model number...shows on the underside of the lever reservoir. What disks/rotors are you running? Model number is engraved near the center! How much do you weigh? Or mention the year model of the bike!
  8. Get a road for road and use the MTB for everything else That Cannondale 105 disc is nice. Not so keen on the silver though, but each to his own
  9. Ok so on the topic of scrotum....a saddle bag is cool as long as it is not overly huge and flapping around like a bull's happy ball sack on his way to mount a fair cow . Like everything else there are a few do's and don'ts! Select the appropriate size for your bike and needs and mount it securely so it does not sway around and make hideous noises as it bangs everything around it... the mounting straps will also start to rub the paint and/or carbon if not tight! Make sure that the contents are tightly packed too so your tool and tyre levers don't rattle and potentially cut into your spare tube.
  10. You a big oak or just have broad shoulders? What is your height?
  11. Whether you look cool or not in whatever gear, as long as you are riding, you are cool
  12. Now there is something I would never rock on any of my bikes!!! It's not crap if it helps me out of a pickle
  13. I like to be prepared, well as much as possible, so I don't have to walk a million miles back home or to the car! So I an one of the uncool I always ride with a camelbak...road or mountain. It's just easier for me to keep my over-sized phone, keys, additional bomb, tubeless repair kit, money, cards, glass cleaner and cloth (I have prescription sunglasses that sweat always seems to obscure my vision from time to time) and whatever else I feel I need to take with me! I cannot stand to have all that weight in my jersey pockets, pulling and bouncing around! I only ever keep bars and gels in there as they are easier to get to while on the move. The bladder is only used on long and hot rides so it also provides for extra storage space if I need to take arm warmers or a jacket off on those cooler rides. A camelbak actually looks like a little saddle bag on my back cause being such a big oak I tend to obscure the proportions a little My mountain has a medium sized saddle bag with tube, levers, bomb, C02 adapter, multi-tool, quick links, tube patches, and a few other tiny bits and bobs that may help with trail side repairs. I have a micro saddle bag on the road as the tube is obviously alot smaller than a 29r with pretty much the same contents as the mountain....at least it looks more road specific and slightly streamlined in comparison
  14. Which year models are you looking at? The mongoose has pretty entry level components with older model XT derailleur (at least has the clutch which is great) while the Sola1 will more than likely be latest gen XT with a few SLX bits so you should never feel the need to want to upgrade. The Sola1 would easily be upgradeable to 1x11 if you should feel the need whereas the mongoose would require quite a few changes. The front shock on the Sola1 is awesome while the Mongoose has a decent entry level air shock. The rear shock on the goose is entry level. Give us some more information about your weight, age and possible back or neck issues you may have or have had.
  15. @brucem76 - from what we now know you have the following options: Change to an 11-36 cassette (cheapest!) or... Change to the new Deore M6000 medium cage rear derailleur and drop the largest chain ring to a 34T! When I bought my bike just over a year ago it was 10 speed 11-36 / 36-22 and had a long cage RD....this before I went 1x11 . At the time I was around 126kg's and hardly ever used the 22/36 cause it was like pedaling in mid-air. As time went by, and the more I rode, I got fitter and lost weight. Now down to around 115Kg's. With the 1x11 I do not have the bail out gears I used to have but I am still able to make most climbs and I am still getting better....and less tired at the top of the climb! What I am trying to say is that you should not harp on an easy setup for now because you are more than likely going to grow out of it in the near future
  16. They have the new Deore M6000 components on there with a medium cage derailleur which has a largest sprocket limit of 42. The overall capacity of the medium cage is 41 so they are on the limit! The M6000 long cage derailleur still has a large sprocket limit of 36 and is meant for applications where a larger chain ring difference is required or for 3x10. The newage derailleurs are being designed to accept the now popular 42T cassettes so the older medium cage derailleurs will not work as they have a 36T sprocket limit....irrespective of overall capacity. And I am refering to 10 speed here, just in case the above is confused with the new 11 speed setups
  17. ...or to help you on those hard uphills keep the 24 chainring and drop the larger one to a 36!
  18. Ok so I just did some reading on the total capacity of the RD and learn't something new To work out whether or not the RD will work with your selected ratio's you take your smallest sprocket (11) and subtract it from the largest (42) and add it to the difference in your chain ring sizes. So in your case 42-11+38-24=45! From this you can see that you are exceeding the overall capacity of any 10 speed long cage RD as they all seem to have a limit of 43! This will apparently cause the chain to be too slack in some gears and tight in others causing erratic gear shifting. Your solution would be to reduce the chain ring difference to like a 38-26 or 38-28 or use an 11-36 cassette ...or to help you on those hard uphills keep the 24 chain ring and drop the larger one to a 36! To be honest if you want it to work properly you should use the components for which it was designed for and go the 11-36 cassette route
  19. Define horrible from your point of view? Have you had your LBS reset or realign your RD? Is it horrible on ever gear shift or only when going from the big to little chain ring and vice versa? I don't see why it should be a problem as the overall capacity is 43T as long as there is not too big a difference in the chain rings. The max difference on the M610 SGS is 22 and you are at 14!
  20. OP are you upgrading to 2x10 with the specs you mentioned in your original post? Which RD does it currently have?
  21. So besides the cassette sprocket differences the longer cage allows you to have a greater difference in chain ring sizes....but the FD would also have to be able to cater for this differnce to change correctly!
  22. The new Deore M6000 is 11-42 10 speed! I just compared the differences of the new Deore medium and long cages as well as the SLX M7000 and XT M8000 and I am even more confused than ever as they all differ.... Anyway this is how the new M6000 Deore are specced! Medium cage length: Largest sprocket:42 Smallest sprocket:11 Max difference in chain ring:10 Long cage length: Largest sprocket:36 Smallest sprocket:11 Max difference in chain ring:22 EDIT: My bad!!! Can't use M8000 and M7000 as they are 11 speed but there are similarites. There is even a difference between the medium SLX and XT by a few teeth in overall capcity!
  23. You more than likely have an adapter on their currently with the 160mm rotor. Take a pic or tell us the part number on it...if there is one! The SM-MA-F180P/P2 is the common adapter for shimano calipers (for 180mm rotors) and I assume tektro and the likes too
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