Eugene

Most insurers state in their t&cs that that have the right to repair. They also state that they are not responsible for future values. That means that as long as they get your bike on the road, any future value loss is on you. I would not want my frame to be repaired. There is no industry accreditation or standards authority for carbon repairers. I am not even aware of any apprentice route a person can follow to be a carbon repairer. Many of them are self taught. All you get is word of mouth and reputation to rely on.

I was with Santam. Was hit by a car and my frame was destroyed. Even though the frame was cheaper to replace than a whole bike, they suggested a whole new bike. Got paid within a week and didn't even take the old one from me. Some time later, my front wheel was stolen (long story). We could not find an exact match for the rear wheel, so they covered the cost of a full wheel set. I my experience, Santam is one of the best.

Same name, different people.

I had a floor pump that was about 10 years old, but had a lifetime warranty. I sent them an email to ask if the warranty still covered it and two days later, a replacement part was delivered to a bike shop.

Don't waste your money on upgrading, because there is nothing that you can upgrade to that you will feel the difference on (except maybe a dropper). Wait until the parts wear out and then you can spend money on higher spec parts.

So, I guess I'll change the cassette and chain and see if there is any slippage. If all is well, I save some bucks I didn't mention, it is a road bike

My drive train has some serious mileage on it. My chain checker shows between 0.75 and 1 wear. My plan was to replace the cassette, chain and chainrings. I already have a new cassette and chain and was going to get new chainrings too. I was watching an episode of Bikeapeeds. The bike on the show had similar chain wear to mine and the mechanic said it wasn't necessary to change the chainrings. That got me thinking.... How do you tell if the chainrings are worn? I hate wasting money, but if I'm putting on a new cassette and chain, I still want to replace the rings.

Lorraine Cycle Tour in PE

From what I understand, most events are organised privately and the organisers probably are not too concerned whether their event clashes with another. However, events usually have to be registered with CSA, so I suppose the responsibility to advise organisers of clashes lies with the CSA. It's been a while since I have followed cycling locally, but their was a time that certain events had "Classique" status, meaning no other CSA sanctioned event could take place on that day. Not sure if this still applies.

I was in one of those Chinese shops called Value. They were selling a protective tape (I think meant for cars) for R25. It was very thick. I am sure it would serve your purpose

I love these types of builds. I did something similar to my old Scott Montana. It gives you a huge sense of satisfaction knowing that you built this yourself. By the way, you didn't have to make mods to get the derailleur to fit the cassette. You get a thing called a derailleur extender. They are cheap

Yes, it should work. Just a few things..... Make sure the bb and new crank (if you are replacing it) are compatible and if the hub will take a 9 speed cassette. You should be good to go. But, if you can go 9speed,a 10 speed cassette will also work. So why not do a 1x10 conversion? LTwoo parts are dirt cheap and (in my opinion) work as good a Shimano.

I feel the same, mine is a 2007 Raleigh Team..... It started off life as a Specialized Tarmac. I was hit by a car and the Tarmac's frame was toast. I bought the Raleigh as a frame, swopped out the parts and have never looked back. It is in pristine condition, not a mark or scratch anywhere. I've often thought of replacing it, but just cannot. Here it is ready for the 51'50

I'm not sure what the import duty specifically would be on the motor,. There are no duties on bicycle parts, but I am not sure if an electric motor would be considered a part. You would have to consult the Customs guide, however, VAT should always be payable. The VAT is calculated on the uplifted cost of the item (the cost plus 10%) plus the import duty.

The B screw does, but not the limit screws