This sounds like an interesting project. I am with Top Fuel in that I wouldn't want to discover a design flaw when hurtling down some gnarly single track. Definitely interesting in watching this progress. Good luck.
"Your vote can win it" Guess who I'm voting for :-) Seriously though, if you want a say in what happens, vote. If you don't vote, be a spectator with how the city/country is run as a result as well.
I would stick with a hard-tail if she's keen on racing. It's generally easier to learn good technical skills on a hard-tail. She should be focussed on learning to control the bike and be very efficient at all aspects of the sport. A little later on, when she has more mastery of the sport, then I'd consider a soft-tail. She's also not likely to have to tackle too much terrain (or distance) that requires a dual-suspension for a while. Also check that you need to upsize already. My 14yr old has only just outgrown a 24" (but not an avid rider) but I'm watching the 10yr old as she is also into riding and I may be coming up to the same choice soon. Good luck
Riding Teak place (rocky) again last week on my hard-tail reminded me why I bought a soft-tail - the ride is just sweeter :-) I would buy a hard-tail if you are concerned about cost as you'll be getting a better bike and components for equivalent money or if you're racing (but then you wouldn't be asking here because you'd know what you need) Soft-tail is generally nicer for all round riding so if you can afford one, buy one.
I had an order that just didn't arrive and then I received a wonderful letter from SARS (customs) in the post saying that they had detained my parcel. After calling them they said they randomly detain parcels over R500 and I had to get it formally cleared via a clearance agent. Dealt with the clearance agent today and the costs of getting the parcel now include their fee and I'm paying about double what normal VAT etc would have been. Seriously bummed. Shipping with UPS would be better in this case because they will do the clearance as part of the process.
Spoke to Cyclesure. This clause requires that there be signs of intrusion and that they won't cover a bike that is left leaning against a wall or in the garage with the doors left open. My take is it's pretty difficult to be forcible without being violent - you try to break a door down gently :-) Full ensorsement text: ?It is hereby declared and agreed that theft of your pedal cycle and / or accessories are restricted to forcible and violent entry or exit from your permanent place of residence or from any place where you are temporarily residing or any attempt thereat or as a result of theft following violence or threat of violence. This however will not apply if the residence or outbuildings where the pedal cycle and accessories are kept, is fitted with an alarm system which is connected to a 24 hour radio linked, fully manned armed response service. It is further more a condition that the alarm system is kept fully operational and that whilst the residence is unattended that the system is fully armed?
I have had my bike insured with Outsurance. They have been good and I claimed with very good service and quick turnaround. Just got a letter though saying they're increasing my premium by 20% due to claim. After a call to them they say that that's standard practice for them. For every claim, no matter what claim will jack your premium by 20% in the next year.
Just been chatting to Cyclesure and they will insure my bike (with knowledge of my claim) for less than the original Outsurance price (very close though) and they do not increase premiums due to claims.
The banner said R2970 around Christmas but I still had to buy for about R3600 before the free shipping kicked in - Always better to get R400 cycle gear rather than R400 postage :-)
I've always been very impressed with the Thinkpad range. They're very sturdy and I'm quite heavy on my laptops. Both my brother and father have sub R8000 Thinkpads and they've been happy with theirs.
I think that there are two very different situations, trail riding and racing.
When riding (training) the I think yielding as soon as you can is the right thing to do
When racing, the guy in the front (riding) chooses the line. If he/she is gracious enough to allow me past, then I will be grateful but I have no right of way.
Exactly....! Staggered starts with bad or no seeding, Slow riders gathering at the front of the start shute, Shorter distance riders catching up to slower riders on longer distance, Lap racing, ...
I'd go to a shop and chat with the them about the various types of bikes. Sit on them, feel their weight and talk with them about what riding you're planning on doing. Get their advice and then go back to the internet once you've narrowed things down a bit.
I've found that when I have the chain rubbing against the deralleur guide I need to make bigger adjustments by changing lengthening/shortening the cable at the deralleur. The adjustment is made where the deralleur grips the cable and is usually adjusted with an allen bolt.
I usually align against the biggest chain ring
I think racing rules apply (as in motorsport) the rider in front chooses the line until the rider from behind (who needs to pick his/her own line) passes.
I'm usually one coming up from behind and I'd rather the rider in front concentrate on what he/she is doing as that makes passing more predictable. I can safely assume they'll chose the best line and I then make a plan through the "kitty litter"
