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Found 8 results

  1. Hi all! I have had my Manitou Markhor 100mm fork for about 2years now. Serviced the fork at my LBS after 2000km on it. They just cleaned everything out and put new oil in. I have noticed some play on the dustseals. Is that normal or would that need to be replaced? Headset bearings feel fine and front caliper and wheel is tightened. Also not the brake pads. Have any of you had the same problem? What would the fix be?Forks came on my Merida Big Nine 500 2019
  2. Steve Bowman, Fox South Africa brand manager, takes us through a basic fork service. In this video, Steve shows us the process of removing the lower legs, cleaning and checking the fork, and how to reassemble the fork. Click here to view the article
  3. Announced in April this year, the 32 Step-Cast (SC) fork is the lightest cross-country fork Fox has produced starting at around 1,355 grams. Designed and optimized for 100 mm travel from the outset, the 32 SC has some unique features. Click here to view the article
  4. Six of the bicycle industry’s main suspension manufacturers announced today that, beginning with model year 2017 bicycles, consumers will see several new shock lengths and fitment options. Click here to view the article
  5. Hey guys I am struggling to decide which fork to buy. I have a Momsen AL329 frame (tapered). I dont have a huge budget and I have been looking at: RockShox Recon Silver TK Solo Air RockShox XC 32 TK Solo Air Forks Suntour Raidon RST First I Cant find the Rockshox forks at any of the shops near me, they mostly only sell the Reba. I have seen it on CRC for affordable prices. Do you guys have any recommendations on these forks, and also where to get a good deal on them. I would prefer to buy locally, in the JHB area as I would also like to have the steerer cut (if need be) Im not overly keen on buying second hand as most of the forks that I have seen for under R3k look like they have been through the wars.
  6. The last update to RockShox’s Pike, Revelation, Lyrik, and Yari forks was just a change to the C1 air spring with a new foot nut and seal head. I believe this was done as a response to complaints from users that their forks were sagging into the travel and so had less travel than advertised. A 160 mm fork might have been sitting at about 155 mm at rest, for example. RockShox has touted the revision as providing a higher ride height and no wasted travel or dead space. However, suspension specialists (such as Chris Porter and Vorsprung) have pointed out that the C1 seal head creates a smaller negative air chamber, resulting in a less supple start to the travel and less small-bump sensitivity. Their recommendation seems to be to stick to the B1/B2 seal head and enjoy the better grip and sensitivity at the top of the stroke, and stop obsessing over the travel markings on the stanchions. Based on my understanding of how the system works, it’s the longer foot nut of the C1 version that extends the fork out so it has more travel and is riding higher. It is equivalent to fitting a slightly longer air shaft. I can only hypothesise that the seal head was revised in order to reduce the negative air volume so that the fork cannot be extended deep into the negative travel to the extent that insufficient stanchion and bushing overlap become an issue. Is anyone able to confirm this, or correct me, please? If I am right, does that mean that one could use the longer C1 foot nut to get the higher ride height, but combine it with the B1/B2 seal head for the large negative chamber, provided that the fork is not already at the maximum travel for that model? So with a 160 mm air shaft in a Lyrik and a 140 mm air shaft in a Pike this should be fine, and would give the advertised travel but also the superior performance of the larger negative air chamber? Any clarifications, corrections, or references to further reading or explanations are appreciated!
  7. Hi all So I have recently bought myself a fork with a touch of stanchion wear but great condition other than that. Now I am just wondering what do you guys do in general to prevent further wear from here on out. For now I plan on replacing the dust seals and doing an overall service just for peace of mind but don't know what else I can do to prevent it from wearing down even more. Is there a specific brand of dust seal that can help with this? What are some good dust seals/ service kits you guys would recommend for a rockshox sid/reba? This is a bit of a question on the side, but what causes stanchion wear exactly? My other fork (fox) I've had for over 4 years that I used on a daily basis (commuting and mountain biking) but it never picked up stanchion wear. But I am just curious as to what does cause the wear, is it just dust seals' material that gets harder over time and causes more wear because you don't service the fork, fork oil that lube the seals that runs out? Thank you all!
  8. So i do have a question on front suspension travel , i currently have a 100mm manitou markhor on a size XL titan racing drone frame , bike is one size to big for me as i should ride a size large , i have a lyne amp bar (760mm with 12mm rise ) and a lyne amp stem (60mm) (31.8mm clamp dia) If i want to change the travel on my fork shoul i get a negative stem and a flat bar for the same feeling or should i just leave it on a 100mm , or will be messing up the geometry of the bike? Note that i do race competitive xco But 100mm on a hardtail is not enought for my weight (78kg)
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