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Posted

I have had great success with all types of carbon bars, also getting a nice plug for reinforcing goes a long way.

 

http://www.jejamescycles.co.uk/product-images-large/specialized-cnc-alloy-bar-end-plugs-pair-42237.jpg

 

+1 :)

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Posted

+1 :)

 

 

Not quite sur why one would buy a bar that saves 100g and then fit two plugs that put it straight back on again...i don't run with bar ends so don't think i'll need the plugs.

 

Also the Easton EA70 monkey lite SL seems to be able to be trimmed. It comes at 685mm and i want it 660mm so will be taking off 12.5mm each side, can't see that making a huge difference to the clmap zones.

Posted

Not quite sur why one would buy a bar that saves 100g and then fit two plugs that put it straight back on again...i don't run with bar ends so don't think i'll need the plugs.

 

Also the Easton EA70 monkey lite SL seems to be able to be trimmed. It comes at 685mm and i want it 660mm so will be taking off 12.5mm each side, can't see that making a huge difference to the clmap zones.

 

 

Agreed, just adds more rigidity and with a weight penalty.

you are not taking off a hang of a lot, so you should be fine, wont manke a difference to the clamp zones with that sort of cut

Posted (edited)

I've cut many an Easton Monkeylite......the trick is to get a ROUND blade for the saw!

Just make sure you cut straight!

For a cheap solution I have a set of Azonic clamp on grips that I tighten in place and then trim the bars!

Cheap and easy....YOU DON'T WANT TO CHIP/FRAY THE CARBON IN OR OUT.

You shouldn't need sand paper with a fine rounded blade if you don't do a HAK job.

Good Luck!

Edited by LOUDMAC
Posted

I've cut many an Easton Monkeylite......the trick is to get a ROUND blade for the saw!

Just make sure you cut straight!

For a cheap solution I have a set of Azonic clamp on grips that I tighten in place and then trim the bars!

Cheap and easy....YOU DON'T WANT TO CHIP/FRAY THE CARBON IN OR OUT.

You shouldn't need sand paper with a fine rounded blade if you don't do a HAK job.

Good Luck!

 

 

Excuse the ingnorance but what is a round blade and what type of saw does a round blade fit into?

Posted

Good work patches, advice not to be overlooked.

 

another idea is to not cut them at all.

 

In stead... you could move your grips inward to the desired position, then utilize the extra length for something useful.

 

Like either:

 

A

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_o7-xdPu_kAY/TQdZ3hAskhI/AAAAAAAAAy4/iR3l_gK0ykg/s1600/on%2Bone%2Bsingle%2Bspeed%2Bil%2Bpompino%2Bhandlebar%2Bmirror.jpg

Handlebar mounted mirrors

 

or

 

B

http://direct.tesco.com/pi/Enlarge/1/SS11204-5991TPS900980.jpg

Tassels

 

or both... depending on how far in you move your grips?!

 

Some people put bar ends on to use up that extra space... but only cos they're not man enough to put the tassels and mirror on.

Posted

Not quite sur why one would buy a bar that saves 100g and then fit two plugs that put it straight back on again...i don't run with bar ends so don't think i'll need the plugs.

 

Also the Easton EA70 monkey lite SL seems to be able to be trimmed. It comes at 685mm and i want it 660mm so will be taking off 12.5mm each side, can't see that making a huge difference to the clmap zones.

Because those plugs weigh peanuts and those ultra light carbon bars are weak by nature, one good lie down and you will wish you had the plugs.

But I shall depart and now leave the floor to the real experts and mechanics.

Posted

Because those plugs weigh peanuts and those ultra light carbon bars are weak by nature, one good lie down and you will wish you had the plugs.

But I shall depart and now leave the floor to the real experts and mechanics.

 

I concur and will be dong the same.

Posted

I concur and will be dong the same.

As a total newbie to bikes and their way of mechanics, I have to say that I have learnt so much just sitting on the sidelines reading posts on this here forum.

Posted

Not quite sur why one would buy a bar that saves 100g and then fit two plugs that put it straight back on again...i don't run with bar ends so don't think i'll need the plugs.

 

Also the Easton EA70 monkey lite SL seems to be able to be trimmed. It comes at 685mm and i want it 660mm so will be taking off 12.5mm each side, can't see that making a huge difference to the clmap zones.

 

 

HAHAHAHA, Was thinking exactly the same thing..

Posted

I concur and will be dong the same.

 

I was considering the specialised carbon low rise bar and the LBS recommended that i purchase the plugs "to reinforce the ends". the plugs eight 40g each. Why you'd build a bar that is super light then tell people that after paying well over R1000 for the weight saving that you should spend another few hundred on protecting them from something that they should be equiped do to anyways.

 

Just make the bar so that it'll stand up to the vigors of mountain biking. If I buy a bar for that kind of cash then i expect it to be suitably tested and strong enough to deal with what it was designed to do, not to have to buy something else to make then usable... The monkeylite at least pretends its been suitably reinforced to be able to stand up to some abuse.

Posted

Carbon is not just about saving weight, but about comfort. As a material it absorbs shock better and has a bit of flex to it.

I have also this to add, wear some protection over your mouth when cutting, you don't want to be inhaling carbon dust.

Posted

I was considering the specialised carbon low rise bar and the LBS recommended that i purchase the plugs "to reinforce the ends". the plugs eight 40g each. Why you'd build a bar that is super light then tell people that after paying well over R1000 for the weight saving that you should spend another few hundred on protecting them from something that they should be equiped do to anyways.

 

You only need to put those plugs in carbon bars if you are going to use bar-ends, and some bars come with their own plugs (like the Truvative Noir)

 

There is also the Scandium option: those are super light and very strong.

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