Morewood Zula Headset

[Chubba]

Looking to replace my headset, chatted to the guys at Morewood (who are very helpful!) and explained i need this:

 

http://www.hopetech.com/page.aspx?itemID=SPG189

2 1 1/8” integral (43.95 dia) and B 1 1/8” integral (43.95 dia)

 

Where can i get these from or something like this?

[Troi Sport]

I use this headset on my Zula:

Ritchey WCS Carbon Press Fit

http://ritcheylogic.com/dyn_prodfamily.php?k=98489

 

 

 

Looking to replace my headset, chatted to the guys at Morewood (who are very helpful!) and explained i need this:

 

http://www.hopetech.com/page.aspx?itemID=SPG189

2 1 1/8” integral (43.95 dia) and B 1 1/8” integral (43.95 dia)

 

Where can i get these from or something like this?

[Chubba]

I use this headset on my Zula:

Ritchey WCS Carbon Press Fit

http://ritcheylogic.com/dyn_prodfamily.php?k=98489

Thanks Shamus, were did you get yours?

Can you point it out for me http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Brands.aspx?BrandID=189&CategoryID=73

[ChigginLeg]

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18083

 

Chain Reaction Cycles sells them - but be warned - fitting a headset can be a challenge. Rather go to you Local Bike Shop and get it done professionally. I'm sure the distrbutors of Hope in SA can get you the right headset.

[Chubba]

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=18083

 

Chain Reaction Cycles sells them - but be warned - fitting a headset can be a challenge. Rather go to you Local Bike Shop and get it done professionally. I'm sure the distrbutors of Hope in SA can get you the right headset.

looks like an integrated unit, i need the integral? is there any difference?

[AndreZA]

Thanks Shamus, were did you get yours?

Can you point it out for me http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Brands.aspx?BrandID=189&CategoryID=73

 

He is the distributor for Ritchey. Sure he can have one send to a shop near you.

[Sawdust]

My LBS used the headset from my Giant Anthem frame in the new Zula frame. So it seems nothing special.

[Chubba]

He is the distributor for Ritchey. Sure he can have one send to a shop near you.

Ah-ha - nice one

[Chubba]

I use this headset on my Zula:

Ritchey WCS Carbon Press Fit

http://ritcheylogic.com/dyn_prodfamily.php?k=98489

How much, you going to be at the Argus Expo?

[Johan Bornman]

Do yourself a favour and try and stick to a standard. Although the word "Standard" here is pushing it, I'd argue the 36 degree 45 degree format in 1 1/8th headsets is the standard. It was invented by Aheadset (which later became Cane Creek) and is widely used in the industry. This means the bearings are more affordable and widely available from many, many sources.

 

The 45 degree 45 degree alternative is scarce and expensive. If you are starting afresh, stay away.

 

The differerence in bearing prices is huge - around R50 for a standard one and around R175 to R275 for a 45/45 one - exactly the same quality.

[Chubba]

Do yourself a favour and try and stick to a standard. Although the word "Standard" here is pushing it, I'd argue the 36 degree 45 degree format in 1 1/8th headsets is the standard. It was invented by Aheadset (which later became Cane Creek) and is widely used in the industry. This means the bearings are more affordable and widely available from many, many sources.

 

The 45 degree 45 degree alternative is scarce and expensive. If you are starting afresh, stay away.

 

The differerence in bearing prices is huge - around R50 for a standard one and around R175 to R275 for a 45/45 one - exactly the same quality.

Hi Johan

I'm pretty green with the technical stuff. In laymens terms please, what would I need to get? Thanks.

[GTRacing]

I have the one you are looking for.

[Chubba]

I have the one you are looking for.

Can you PM me the details?

[Johan Bornman]

Hi Johan

I'm pretty green with the technical stuff. In laymens terms please, what would I need to get? Thanks.

 

 

OK, let me see if I can simplify this.

 

A headset comprises two cups (goes inside the frame or are part of the frame), two bearings (goes inside the cups), a crown race (goes onto the fork) and a couple of washers caps and the like.

 

All of this has to be compatible with each other. Now this is where the devil is in the detail. Headset berarings have to have a Outside dimension (OD) and Inside Dimension (ID) that fits the cups and forks. OK so far. But, the bearings are not square when viewied from the side or inside, like other cartridge bearings. They are angled at 45 degrees when viewed from the outside and 45 or 36 degrees on the inside. The latter angle is the problem. Some are 45 andf some are 36 and the two are not compatible.

 

When you go and buy a new headset bearing for your bike, if it is a 36/45 one, the bearing is plentiful and cheap. When you have to source a 45/45 one, it is rare and expensive.

 

The more common one is 36/45 and I suggest you get one of those. Your safest bet is Cane Creek, they invented the Angular Contact Bearing (ACB) headset and licensed it widely. They did the world a big, big favour with that invention.

 

Ritchie (with respect Shamus), is a 45/45 one.

 

 

Companies like FSA make both. Campag is on its own mission with proprietary bearing heights and ODs as well.

 

A new evil on the block is the tapered headset. This means there is a small bearing/cup on top (1 1/8th of an inch) and a large one at the bottom (1 1/2 inch). Now imagine the combinations and peermutations! That's why companies like Hope sell the top and bottom parts seperately. Thumbs up to all companies who do this.

 

Not all headsets are born equal. Really nice ones will have a rubber seal on the crown race. This seal will fit perfectly inside its cup and protect the bearing from water shooting up from the wheel. Lesser ones have a pure steel race with a tiny gap to allow for frictionless rotation. These are evil and rubbish. Cane Creek leads the pack here.

 

But, I don't understand why you would want a new headset for your bike. It has a headset and these usually just require new bearings. The latter is a consumable, the former not.

[TYGA]

"This seal will fit perfectly inside its cup and protect the bearing from water shooting up from the wheel. Lesser ones have a pure steel race with a tiny gap to allow for frictionless rotation. These are evil and rubbish. Cane Creek leads the pack here."

 

I noticed some lekker brown rusty water in the head tube this when swapping the forks on the wifes bike recently (fairly new headset too but one of those with the gap in the steel race)...which is the correct position for the gap in the steel race and how do you avoid the water getting in the headset / headtube...just pack it full up with grease?

[Johan Bornman]

"This seal will fit perfectly inside its cup and protect the bearing from water shooting up from the wheel. Lesser ones have a pure steel race with a tiny gap to allow for frictionless rotation. These are evil and rubbish. Cane Creek leads the pack here."

 

I noticed some lekker brown rusty water in the head tube this when swapping the forks on the wifes bike recently (fairly new headset too but one of those with the gap in the steel race)...which is the correct position for the gap in the steel race and how do you avoid the water getting in the headset / headtube...just pack it full up with grease?

 

The correct position for the gap between the race and the cup is whichever position it maximises the chance of water shooting up from the front wheel entering the headset. It should also be posisioned so that when you wash your bike upside down, much water can enter.

 

That's the way it was designed, believe it or not.

 

 

You cannot retro waterproof it. And never, ever use grease to waterproof something. Grease is a lubricant, not a waterproofing agent. It easily emulsifies and traps water inside where it cannot evaporate, but do lots of damage at its leisure.