Jump to content

Deemax vs DTswiss Fr6.1/CK


banna

Recommended Posts

wrt CK, it's all in the name: the king of components. but u pay thru both nostrils. Difficult to justify hte price if u dont have a feel for just how long they last. Someday, oneday, when i'm earning a bundle :P

 

I have been keeping an ear out for the issues you mentioned MH, but nothing so far. No slipping, no funny noises. So far, so good. btw MH: did they replace it under warrantee, or u fork it out?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JW, have you had any issues with your freehub? All Mavic MTB wheels use the same freehub body, and several people have complained about it being rubbish (me included). I ride a pair of cheap CrossRides on my 5.5, and replaced the freehub body after about 2500km. It was making weird whirry sounds and slipping, combined with play because of the soft PU shim wearing out. A new one fixed the funny sounds and play, but guess what, it still slips occasionally. I've never heard of a CK hub slipping, ever.

 

Deemaxes are nice (I certainly wouldn't mind!), but I think CK hubs are on a different level.

 

Yup, my Crossmax rear hub packed up on day 7 of the 2010 Epic. So you can imagine I wasn't too happy, as I had to ride for 80km without freewheeling anywhere. The hub would lock up everytime you freewheel. But having said that, I still luv those wheels. For the rest they were bulletproof. And I put about 12 000km on them in the space of a year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Banna: u want the blingbling colors offered by DT Swiss or Spank? Not jibing at all,just asking cos if u looking for bombproof and available, then the UST compatible mavic EX823s are available here. I had mine built up by Action Cycling. Superb set of rims for racing or practice.

 

/quote]

 

Nah, not interested in bling on my AM bike. Just gonna wreck the components in any event. So ja cool, I'll have a look at the EX823's. The DT Swiss FR6.1's are also available in SA, but not sure how good they are.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yup, my Crossmax rear hub packed up on day 7 of the 2010 Epic. So you can imagine I wasn't too happy, as I had to ride for 80km without freewheeling anywhere. The hub would lock up everytime you freewheel. But having said that, I still luv those wheels. For the rest they were bulletproof. And I put about 12 000km on them in the space of a year.

 

The same thing happened to me shortly after the noises started. Also, otherwise I'm very happy with the set!

 

JW, I forked out, seeing as I got them from CRC :)

 

The Freehub body is about R350, so not the end of the world, just annoying.

Edited by Martin Hattingh
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where did you get your Spank's from?

 

form CRC as suspected. But it works out cheaper that way. The Spank Spikes are solid! I had Mavic 729s on my FR bike once (which I've heard are the non UST versions of the 823s... they were also pretty sturdy, but the spank spikes are even beefier. That being said... they're a little too hardcore for AM wheels... so if you want Spank rims, then rather look at the Subrosas (FR/light DH) or maybe even the Oozy (AM/Light Freeride).

 

But hey... rims buckle... so another option (a value-for-money-one) is SUn Ringle MTX 29s (welded)... these are what Nukeproof use on their Generator AM wheels. Daft Vader uses those wheels for DH. I use them for jumping. Very impressed. As mentioned before, the factory built Nukeproof wheels are awesome (value for money too)... but if you wanna go custom and similar... you can lace the MTX 29s to your hub of choice.

 

JW, have you had any issues with your freehub? All Mavic MTB wheels use the same freehub body, and several people have complained about it being rubbish (me included). I ride a pair of cheap CrossRides on my 5.5, and replaced the freehub body after about 2500km. It was making weird whirry sounds and slipping, combined with play because of the soft PU shim wearing out. A new one fixed the funny sounds and play, but guess what, it still slips occasionally. I've never heard of a CK hub slipping, ever.Deemaxes are nice (I certainly wouldn't mind!), but I think CK hubs are on a different level.

 

MH, my buddy is running Deemax's and his wheels started that "whirring" noise the other day while we were running in fast for a jump line. When we removed the wheel off to have look, it seems like the freehub body is loose and gets a 'speed wobble' which causes the noise. We tried tightening the axles, and this does eliminate the freehub body play... but 15min back on the bike and it starts again.

 

So what is the fix? I new freehub body?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

 

 

MH, my buddy is running Deemax's and his wheels started that "whirring" noise the other day while we were running in fast for a jump line. When we removed the wheel off to have look, it seems like the freehub body is loose and gets a 'speed wobble' which causes the noise. We tried tightening the axles, and this does eliminate the freehub body play... but 15min back on the bike and it starts again.

 

So what is the fix? I new freehub body?

 

Nah, first let the LBS open up the hub and give it a good cleanup. That whirring noise is normally caused by dust and grime inside. Anyway that's usually the solution for my Corssmax's. But I did have to replace the freehub body on the Epic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nah, first let the LBS open up the hub and give it a good cleanup. That whirring noise is normally caused by dust and grime inside. Anyway that's usually the solution for my Corssmax's. But I did have to replace the freehub body on the Epic.

 

Quite right, the whirring should be solved by cleaning, but the play will remain. I opened mine myself and had a good look at it, the explanations I found on several threads then made sense. The body spins on a white polyurethane bushing, separated from the hub itself by a thin rubber seal. When dirt gets in there, it wears the PU shim down, which eventually causes play. As far as I can tell, it's this play which ultimately causes occassional slipping; and of course every time it slips, it wears the body and pawls down ever-so-slightly. Because it's worn, it slips easier next time, and so forth...

 

First have your LBS open it and give it a good clean and lube though, that will get rid of the noise to start off with. Hopefully slipping is not a problem!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

My experience with the Deemax rear has not been to great, i bought the bike, rode it once and the hub cracked where the free hub slides on. Hear that it is quite common for the rear hub to do this. They are a older model wheel set, but show me other hubs that do this. Tried to get a loose replacement Deemax hub, which proved stressful to say the least. I ended up lacing a Hope Pro 2 to the Deemax rim and now i think i have a bullet proof combo.

 

Had no issues with the front.

 

Ohh... and not to scare anyone, the Deemax hub is actually 2 pieces pressed and glued together, unlike others that are machined from a piece of billet.

post-8700-0-83880600-1309524688.jpg

post-8700-0-89495400-1309524702.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quite right, the whirring should be solved by cleaning, but the play will remain. I opened mine myself and had a good look at it, the explanations I found on several threads then made sense. The body spins on a white polyurethane bushing, separated from the hub itself by a thin rubber seal. When dirt gets in there, it wears the PU shim down, which eventually causes play. As far as I can tell, it's this play which ultimately causes occassional slipping; and of course every time it slips, it wears the body and pawls down ever-so-slightly. Because it's worn, it slips easier next time, and so forth...

 

First have your LBS open it and give it a good clean and lube though, that will get rid of the noise to start off with. Hopefully slipping is not a problem!

 

My buddy took his bike in... got the hub cleaned and lubed... and the whirring went away. :thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Settings My Forum Content My Followed Content Forum Settings Ad Messages My Ads My Favourites My Saved Alerts My Pay Deals Help Logout