divernick Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Hey DN - like the idea that it comes with it's own skewer nut, presuming that unlike the standard nut, it has little to no recess? It's design though is pretty similar to the one I have on - and mine isn't working... As mentioned, I need to constantly tighten up the adjuster bolt, since it eventually loses tension and pivots away from the chain.... The nice thing about this skewer nut is that it doesn't have a recess, it actualy has the opposite and inserts into the tensioner frame. This gives 2 points of tension on the frame, the skewer nut and the hanger nut. I tighten mine down TIGHT on the hanger nut and use normal tension on the skewer and have never had a problem - and I have a bit of uneven chain tension as well due to imperfect crank spider bolt holes. Oh, and by the way, this tensioner is CHEAP @R132 on CRC where I got mine (it looks like the one in the pic above, not like the one on CRC.)
divernick Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=17724
The Drongo Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 RodTi Still think that plastic against frame dropout idea is a bit dicey.I reckon your sanity is probably worth a S Singulator! You know. Made by SS'ers, for SS....self tensioning and all that.
RodTi Posted July 12, 2011 Author Posted July 12, 2011 Drongo - Surly looks the bizz, but DN's Gusset looks a treat too, at a fifth of the price... Did spot quite a few comments at the Gusset's review about using Loctite to keep things in place... That could work, no?
divernick Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Drongo - Surly looks the bizz, but DN's Gusset looks a treat too, at a fifth of the price... Did spot quite a few comments at the Gusset's review about using Loctite to keep things in place... That could work, no?
Hairy Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Any recommendations on a tensioner for converting a duallie to a SS?
divernick Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Any recommendations on a tensioner for converting a duallie to a SS? Now there you'll need something sprung with a bit of travel...singulator, Fire Eye Spur2 or Shimano Afine tensioner should do the trick
deanbean Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Now there you'll need something sprung with a bit of travel...singulator, Fire Eye Spur2 or Shimano Afine tensioner should do the trick I'd also consider using a chain device on the front.
RodTi Posted July 12, 2011 Author Posted July 12, 2011 I'd also consider using a chain device on the front. +1... Depending on what susser it is, you'd presumably have quite a bit of movement on the chain line as the suspension is activated?
The Drongo Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 (edited) Drongo - Surly looks the bizz, but DN's Gusset looks a treat too, at a fifth of the price... Did spot quite a few comments at the Gusset's review about using Loctite to keep things in place... That could work, no? Dude. If you like fuss, sure. It's your time. My bet would still be with the DMR Tension Seeker or Singulator. One point of contact. Self adjusting tension. No stuffing around with your tensioner every time you need to fix a flat. No sticky Loctite stuff, etc. etc. Don't forget the whole principle behind the SS thing. Fit, forget, RIDE. Big Up. :thumbup: Edited July 12, 2011 by The Drongo
The Drongo Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 Any recommendations on a tensioner for converting a duallie to a SS? Hairy. Lost the plot??
schmoose Posted July 12, 2011 Posted July 12, 2011 I've used this tensioner no problem. RodTi go and buy yourself some good loctite, that should solve the problem of the item coming loose. Also check out your chainline theres obviously something very wrong if your tensioner is under pressure, there should be no heavy pressure there, something else is fishy. All on all with the need for a new skewer, this tensioner coming free something is very, very fishy.
RodTi Posted July 12, 2011 Author Posted July 12, 2011 I've used this tensioner no problem. RodTi go and buy yourself some good loctite, that should solve the problem of the item coming loose. Also check out your chainline theres obviously something very wrong if your tensioner is under pressure, there should be no heavy pressure there, something else is fishy. All on all with the need for a new skewer, this tensioner coming free something is very, very fishy. Did I mention I'm heavy? Chainline is straight - new chain, new sprocket at the back, new MonoVeloce SS specific blade up front... The problem presents at the tensioner. As mentioned, I have no doubts for the many/few(?) that might run with no problems, you will find many/few(?) who do have problems... In my case - I'm convinced that the skewer cap not taking enough thread on the skewer, and therefore not biting into the locator tab sufficiently to assist the adjustment bolt in preventing the tensioner from moving, is where things are going south... I don't want the hassle of fidgeting with the SS - so I'll either get this sorted, or go for a completely different option.
RodTi Posted July 13, 2011 Author Posted July 13, 2011 Had a close look at the tensioner setup last night - and realised where the main problem was... In short [ ], the back end of the locator-tab, that slots into the dropout is too wide. The wheel nut is pushing up against it, which means the front end of the tab is not sitting flush against the dropout, as the skewer passes through it to screw in to the adjuster cap. I mentioned that I replaced my original skewer since I noticed a bend in the end of it - this was no doubt caused by the skewer being tightened with it not running straight. At the time, I noticed that the adjuster cap was sitting skew (which saw me examine the skewer and find the bend), but assumed this was because of the bend in the skewer [ stoopid me] - I now realise that the deformity was caused because of the adjuster cap pulling the skewer out of alignment, which in turn was caused by the locator-tab not sitting flush with the dropout.... The above has been confirmed by me not being able to get the new adjuster cap level on the new skewer either... This morning, I popped into a local engineering shop, and at a cost of Twenty ZA Ront, had them take 2mm off the back-end of the tab... This should prevent the wheel nut from forcing it out of alignment, which will hopefully allow the adjuster cap to bite the tab as it's supposed to - and have everything sit flush against the dropout, and thereby simultaneously prevent the tensioner from pivoting...
RodTi Posted July 19, 2011 Author Posted July 19, 2011 I'm thinking I've fixed it.... Went up the hill on the weekend, no adjustments required.... Now, let's wait and see if Karma decides to kick me in the n@ts for typing this...
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