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Posted

/Maybe I have not been clear in my previous post . Stop wasting time and get disks . It's gonna cost you a bit but all this bull about maintenance and whatever else does not float . I got 4 bikes with different types of disk systems and the only maintenace would be to replace disks .

Posted

So where is my solution and how much am i looking at? i don't want to shoot off the side of a cliff while on my way to victory in the next race!!!

 

 

 

Posted

Get the Vees set up properly.  I am at the heavy side of thing and my 15year old cantilever brakes (before Vees) can lock up both my wheels.  <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

 

Remember the switch to Disc are going to cost you an arm and a leg.  Your frame, fork and hubs need to be disc ready. If not it would be almost cheaper to buy a new bike than upgrade.Dead

 

If you still interested, Try CWC and Bike Hut.

 

KCNC

http://www.cwcycles.co.za/product_cat_brand.php?idbrand=53&idcategory=32

 

Avid

http://www.bikehut.co.za/store/index.php?act=viewCat&catId=40

 

Ox_Wagon2007-11-27 08:23:44
Posted
Mmmm....Cheap discs or decent v's? I've got avid arch rivals on my MTB...trust me there is no discs that works better.

 

Iteresting, I'm also running Avid Arch Rivals.

Upgraded from sh*tty Deore v's to the Arch Rivals.. Man, what a difference!

Depending on cash situation, but for me it wasn't even a discussion.

Much rather go for high quality v's than cheap discs. Put some Koolstop pads on & you're good to go.
Posted
Hi' date='

 

I am looking for some advice my mountain bike has V-brakes on it. I find that stopping on fast downhills can be a real problem for me, i am definatley not a light weight.

 

Would disc brakes be more effective?

 
[/quote']

 

On a road bike on dry paved road, you are limited in how much you can brake by the bike's overturning momentum. In other words, you'll do an endo long before you'll lose grip on your front wheel.  Rear wheels do very little braking since they quickly lift and can't brake in the air. Maximum decelleration is when your rear wheel is just off the ground but you're not yet overturning.

 

On unpaved road on a MTB, you are limited by traction. In other words, the wheels will skid first and you'll probably not endo.

 

Both V-brakes and Disc-brakes provide enough force to reach both situations, whether fitted to a road (hypothetically, since this is not done) or mountain bike.

 

Therefore, a well-adjusted V-brake with serviceable pads and rim, is just as good in the stopping department as disc brakes that are well adjusted and serviceable. And of course, vice versa.

 

Hydraulic disc brakes excell in areas of maintenance. Heavily-used brake cables require regular maintenance in order to remove dirt ingression that make the cables gritty and hard to operate. Cable operated disc brakes suffer from the same maladies as V-brakes - cable trouble.

 

Disc brakes perform poorly in very wet and gritty conditions compared to V-brakes. Whilst they still do what they're supposed to do, i.e. stop the bike, they quickly chew up their pads and you may not be able to complete a long wet ride simply because you have run out of brakes. This is especially true with resin pads and people who don't know how to brake.

 

Braking is best done with the front wheel only, unless you are experiencing traction problems, then a bit of rear brake helps a bit. On a road bike where you have unlimited traction, the only brake to use is front. Rear brakes are very ineffective and this is evident from the rate of pad wear. People who constantly drag their rear brakes run out  rear brake pads and blocks long before front-brakers do so. It is simply a function of the difference in efficiency of the front and rear brake. 

 

If you want to learn how to adjust your V-brakes, I have an article on my website on that. Look under the Supersport Articles. I promise to re-arrange my website in the immediate future and then things will be easier to find.

 
Posted

Only upgrade to disks if you have enough to go for decent hydraulic, otherwise you are wasting your money. try using coolstop pads on your v's they offer great stopping power.

 

The huge advantage to disks is that you have much better control / modulation and can brake later and harder as a result. The downside is when they go wrong - they realy do go wrong.
Posted

Disc are supposed to better in muddy condition where the rim is coated with mud (grinding paste)Ouch.  This causes accelerated rim wear if you?re using Vees or cantys. Added to that there is an obvious reduction of performance. After the mud fest 6hr ride my rims had a nice wire brushed finished. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

 

Due to the cost implications of going to disc it may be worthwhile to replace the pads first(good quality) and take the bike to a reputable LBS so that they can set it up.  If you are still unhappy then look at discs.  

Ox_Wagon2007-11-27 23:37:30
Posted

For technical stuff check Sheldon Browns website first, 9 out of 10 times the info is there. <?:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />

 

http://sheldonbrown.com/canti-direct.html

 

Interesting he mentioned that Canti brakes levers may cause problem with Vees.  Some Tectro Levers have two positions for cable attachment. One for Cantis and the second for Vees (They require longer pull). Check if yours are on the right setting if it has the option.

Posted

The huge advantage to disks is that you have much better control / modulation and can brake later and harder as a result. The downside is when they go wrong - they realy do go wrong.

 

Not true. You can't brake later and harder as a result. With both brakes you have more than enough power - enough being the point where the wheel loses traction. It is a myth that disc brakes offer more power - they may have (who knows) but it cannot be proven or used, since traction is the limiting factor.

 

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