Reba RLT Lockout - Changing from remote to crown-mount lockout

[pauloc]

Hi Guys,

 

I've got a Reba RLT with remote lockout. I hardly ever use the lock-out and when I do, the release often gets stuck so I need to reach down and turn the mechanism by hand.

 

Is it possible to get rid of the remote lockout and install a crown-mount lockout instead? I didn't get the crown mount top in the package when I bought it, so I assume it's either a separate part you need to buy / it's not possible??

 

Cheers,

Paulo

[The Drongo]

Hi Guys,

 

I've got a Reba RLT with remote lockout. I hardly ever use the lock-out and when I do, the release often gets stuck so I need to reach down and turn the mechanism by hand.

 

Is it possible to get rid of the remote lockout and install a crown-mount lockout instead? I didn't get the crown mount top in the package when I bought it, so I assume it's either a separate part you need to buy / it's not possible??

 

Cheers,

Paulo

 

Paulo

 

The remote lockout compression tube has a return spring in the shaft. This forces the lockout into an always open position.

The crown mounted lockout does not have this spring, so the shaft stays where you place it.

The unit is sealed, and the spring supposedly can not be removed.

 

Usually this problem relates to a lack of service, or incorrect placement of the cable ring. Have you opened the fork up?

Edited July 19, 2011 by The Drongo

[pauloc]

Paulo

 

The remote lockout compression tube has a return spring in the shaft. This forces the lockout into an always open position.

The crown mounted lockout does not have this spring, so the shaft stays where you place it.

The unit is sealed, and the spring supposedly can not be removed.

 

Usually this problem relates to a lack of service, or incorrect placement of the cable ring. Have you opened the fork up?

Well that's not good news...

 

I've never opened the fork - it's only a few months old so still good as new. I have managed to get the release to work nicely by cleaning all the bits and pieces and re-installing, but it only lasts a few uses and then it's back to it's sticky old self.

[Mackie]

It can be removed, but this is costly, get a Push-loc rather they work better (Still not great). The ultimate is the X-loc on the XX range, all bar mounted lock-outs for Rock Shox are ***, I had endless issues with mine, I now have a SID XX with the X-loc and it works brilliantly.

[The Drongo]

It can be removed, but this is costly, get a Push-loc rather they work better (Still not great). The ultimate is the X-loc on the XX range, all bar mounted lock-outs for Rock Shox are ***, I had endless issues with mine, I now have a SID XX with the X-loc and it works brilliantly.

 

That means he has to change his fork fella. Bit pricey, no?

 

XX is a hydraulic lockout system.

[pauloc]

That means he has to change his fork fella. Bit pricey, no?

 

XX is a hydraulic lockout system.

Ja - definitely won't be doing that anytime soon!

 

Love my Reba and as I said I don't really use the lock-out that much, so might just take the remote lockout off altogether. It's actually got a really stupid clamp mechanism that doesn't open wide enough so I can only get it so far down my handlebar and it's actually borderline interfering with the position of my shift levers so there's actually 2 reasons for tossing it out

[Mackie]

That means he has to change his fork fella. Bit pricey, no?

 

XX is a hydraulic lockout system.

Never suggested that, was just making a comparison.

[Johan Bornman]

Sometimes I sit and wonder, other times I just sit.

 

Now I'm sitting and wondering where some people get their info from and why MAS* is so prevalent on this forum.

 

1) The spring is removable.

2) It is easy to do so.

3) It should be no more than 10 minutes labour.

4) You require no parts if you are happy with just using the existing blue cable pulley wheel as a know.

 

 

Here's how to do the job.

 

Mount the bike in a sturdy stand.

 

1) Cut the cable and remove the irritating poplock. Chuck it so that it will never irritate you again.

2) Remove the remnant of the cable from the blue pulley on top of the fork by undoing the grub screw with a 1.5mm allen key. Keep the grub screw in a little plastic bag in a drawer with all that other odd stuff that gathers in drawers.

3) Remove the Motion Control Damper mechanism from the fork by unscrewing it with a 24mm socket or - gasp- shifting spanner. Slowly pull it out and beware of oil spilling. It will come out sluggishly and slurpingly. There are some O-rings in there that keeps it snug in the stanchion. Before removing it completely, let it hang in there for a few seconds to drain al its oil.

4) Pull it out. Depending on the fork model, you'll now have a red or black tubular object in your hands. it is like a DT Swiss hub's seals - full of holes. You'll see the return spring inside and by turnign the blue pulley you'll see what the spring does.

5) Now find a way of clamping the MCD (that tubular object I've been talking about) so that you can unscrew its black cap. This cap is left-hand threaded, so it is righty loosey, lefty tighty. It has to be like that otherwise the cap would have separated from the MCD when you took it out of the fork.

6) Take the cap off and remove the silver shaft. Take the spring off.

7) Return the shaft and replace the black cap (lefty tighty).

8) Put the whole shebang back, have beer and go for a ride.

 

Some years ago I posted a picture-by-picture report on how to overhaul the MCD - removing the spring is just a sub-set of that procedure. Key-words that may get you to the post include Motion Control Damper, left hand thread etc.

 

Go do it. Life's too short to fiddle with crappy cable-actuated poplocks.

[Johan Bornman]

*MAS - Male Answer Syndrome. It is when males feel they have to answer all questions - usually of a technical or scientific nature, even when they know squat about the field.

[pauloc]

Wow! Thanks for the detailed explanation JB. Sounds like something even I could do, so will give it a bash at some stage

[The Drongo]

Thanks Mr Bornman.

 

Sold one to the intrepid GoodBadUgly, who advised me that he had done same. I had always thought they were sealed.

Here is his reply:

 

How to get the spring out? Easy. Remove the small circlip and remove the dial (or manual lock out) Just hold the red cylinder in your strong hand and unscrew the black top part. Just take note. Unscrewing is CLOCKWISE. Then pull out the centre part. The less easy part is to get the spring back again. But not even that is difficult.

 

Will be giving it a bash!

 

Just goes to show, you learn new things EVERY day!

[mtb_Josh]

I did this to my fork yesterday (took the spring out) but now the lockout doesnt work? I'm sure it worked before I took the spring out... any ideas JB?

[Tumbleweed]

*MAS - Male Answer Syndrome. It is when males feel they have to answer all questions - usually of a technical or scientific nature, even when they know squat about the field.

 

*Ahem*

[mudda]

woooohoo ...

 

just did this as per JB instructions ... 

 

Yes first time lockout did not work, was an alignment issue from the silver shaft ... re-did with check of alignment ... and all sorted ...

 

Thanks for this old post! with good advice ...

 

Also agree that pop-lock is a dumb thing ....I did a few races with issues  from that stupid pop lock ... 

 

so ... yes if you want to go to crown lockout on rockshox ... just remove the spring and its done.

[merwe]

Thanks from the future!

Printed myself a nice new knob.