Campy 11 speed cassette on Easton Tempest 2 wheels (Advice needed)

[Asterix]

Hi all

 

need advice, got me a set of Easton Tempest 2 Wheels and took it to a LBS to have my 11 speed campy cassette put on. The First LBS sayed it wont work as wheels are not compatible and can't help.

 

So tried next LBS, they add a washer at the back of cassette and there was just enough clearance for lockring to tighten. But when we put wheel on bike the lockring was touching the Frame or dropout and thus wheel not spinning freely. They then added a washer between lockring and frame which allowed wheel to spin freely. It seems fine.

 

My only concern is if this is normal, will this maybe not put strain on frame?

 

Any advice.

 

thanks

[NickD]

Hi all

 

need advice, got me a set of Easton Tempest 2 Wheels and took it to a LBS to have my 11 speed campy cassette put on. The First LBS sayed it wont work as wheels are not compatible and can't help.

 

So tried next LBS, they add a washer at the back of cassette and there was just enough clearance for lockring to tighten. But when we put wheel on bike the lockring was touching the Frame or dropout and thus wheel not spinning freely. They then added a washer between lockring and frame which allowed wheel to spin freely. It seems fine.

 

My only concern is if this is normal, will this maybe not put strain on frame?

 

Any advice.

 

thanks

[NickD]

Hi Asterix,

This is normal although I use a thinner washer behind the casette. The 11 spd casette cantilevers behind the freewheel and that causes the binding. Not mad about the extra washer.

Cheers

[Asterix]

Ok thanks good to know just a bit of mission put and taking off back wheel with additional washer.

[Bike Mob]

I know Zipp use different end caps (like the dust seals) between campy and shimano and I'm certain this will move out your spacing if they are avaialble for Easton. The tempest ones pull out.maybe you can fit a washer behind it if you cannot find a replacement compatible part.

[Jakkals.]

Nee nee, jy moet n groter washer tussen jou freehub en bearings sit.dan sal die cassette perfek op die freehub pas.

[Spinnekop]

Hi Asterix,

This is normal although I use a thinner washer behind the casette. The 11 spd casette cantilevers behind the freewheel and that causes the binding. Not mad about the extra washer.

Cheers

 

Also had issues on some of my wheels.

You just need to get the correct thickness washer to put at the back of the cassette.

 

Also not fond of the extra washer....rather get a better lockring for your cassette that will sort out the spacing on the frame.

[Johan Bornman]

I have a case like that here in my workshop right now. Same wheel, same problem. I carefully measured a whole bunch of stuff on one wheel that did work and the Easton that didn't. In the end, I discovered that the Easton's OLD (over locknut diemension) is only 129mm instead of 130mm. I then machined a spacer to extend the right side of the axle by 1mm. I redished the wheel to move the rim -.5mm to the right. There is now a little bit of clearance between the right jamb nut and 11 sprocket but how much I don't know yet because the bike is with its owner and I only have the one errant wheel here. From my measurements and guestimates, this will solve the problem.

 

Have a look if your wheel's OLD is also just 129mm. I'd like to know if this is common on these wheels.

[Asterix]

Came accross this post apparently it sorts out the issue on easton wheels, you basically need to change the body to a C2/V2/C3 cassette body.

 

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/easton/campy-compatibility-easton-r3-hubs-truth-277006.html

[Johan Bornman]

Thanks for the link Astrieks. It looks to me like the modified body has a small built-in spacer att he innermost end of the splines. That's basically what I've done with a custom spacer. Yet, on the one I have here, the cassette then didn't clear the jamb jub, wih the 11 hitting the frame. Hence my 1mm spacer on the axle.

 

I'm still keen to know what the OLD on your wheel is.

[Asterix]

Thanks for the link Astrieks. It looks to me like the modified body has a small built-in spacer att he innermost end of the splines. That's basically what I've done with a custom spacer. Yet, on the one I have here, the cassette then didn't clear the jamb jub, wih the 11 hitting the frame. Hence my 1mm spacer on the axle.

 

I'm still keen to know what the OLD on your wheel is.

 

How do i measure the OLD, bit to technical for me but i can measure and come back to you?

Edited June 21, 2012 by Asterix

[Spinnekop]

Very interesting oom Johan......

 

Also found today that if you don't use the correct 11sp lockring provided with the cassette, you are going to have an extra little battle of the hears jumping

[Johan Bornman]

How do i measure the OLD, bit to technical for me but i can measure and come back to you?

 

It is a bit difficult to explain, but let me explain what OLD is first. It is the width of the hub as seen by the bike. In other words, from the outside of the left jamb nut to the outside of the right one. The jamb nuts are those knurled nuts that grip the frame. On Eastons they could be called "end caps" of you like since they are effectively the two ends of the axle.

 

It is difficult to measure it on a complete wheel since you have to weave a vernier in between the spokes etc.

 

Since frames can flex outwards/inwards a bit at the rear triangle, it doesn't really matter if it is 129mm or 131mm.

 

But more than that and it becomes difficult to fit the wheel.

 

Road bikes have a rear OLD of 130mm, MTBs are 135mm. Front wheels on MTB and RBs are 100mm and newer 20mm through axles on front wheels are 110mm. Tandems have a rear OLD of 145mm and new-fangled rear MTB through-axle thingies are 142mm.

 

Easton decided on its own standard - 129mm and when you're playing with very limited space like on an 11-speed bike, you run out of clearance.

 

Dawie O once told me that anyone with a CAD system can design a standard.

[Johan Bornman]

Very interesting oom Johan......

 

Also found today that if you don't use the correct 11sp lockring provided with the cassette, you are going to have an extra little battle of the hears jumping

 

 

Also good to know.

[Asterix]

Hi all

 

If anyone have issues converting there easton wheels to take 11 speed campy cassette. here is the soloution

 

http://forums.roadbikereview.com/easton/campy-compatibility-easton-r3-hubs-truth-277006.html

 

I ordered me a C2V2 hub of ebay as it workout alot cheaper than Local prices. (Basically half the price) and done conversion as per weblink above. Works 100% no spacers/washers required. Takes about 5 minutes and can be done at home no issues.

 

thought i would share.