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Gorilla Tape Tubeless Conversion


Hairy

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I used the normal Schrader tube. The trick is to use a thin sealant, not the thick snotty stuff. The snotty stuff failed as it did not seal on the bead (too thick to get there) The runny sealant will get to the bead and seal it, as mine did. Topped up air three days after the conversion, and it is still holding, six weeks later.

 

Yeha, I need to gravitate away from the snotty stuff...

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Yeha, I need to gravitate away from the snotty stuff...

My logic always thought that the snotty stuff will seal better....but I stand corrected.thumbup1.gif

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By chance I tried duct tape this weekend and didn't even bother cutting it... everything seated nicely, but the letdown as the valve sealing... such a let down.

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My logic always thought that the snotty stuff will seal better....but I stand corrected.thumbup1.gif

 

Same as mine! I thought the bits n pieces would help to form a solid mass. Works for big holes, but not for general sealing...

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  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...

OK - after 2 punctures on my first ride with my new bike (Scott 940 - and special thanks to the 2 guys who helped out with a tube and bomb yesterday) I was too irritated to wait until the weekend to go and get supplies to do a tubeless conversion. I gave the ghetto version a bash and as of this morning the two tyres are holding pressure so it looks good.

 

In case anyone wants the details I converted Rocket Rons using the two layers of insulation tape and 1 layer of normal duct tape, Stan's valves and Stan's no-tube sealant. Does anyone know how often one needs to replace the tape.

 

Special thanks to all the detailed info here and on youtube for making this really easy - it took 45 minutes on the one wheel and about 35 minutes for the other wheel start to finish (with some beer in between).

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In my experience the 'ghetto' tube option (same as the rubber Stans/Joes strip idea) eventually fails where the valve attaches (unless I am just too heavy handed with a pump) ...... having said that it's easy to solve by just 'tearing' out the old valve and inserting a loose tjoopless valve - job done!

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got some of that Gorilla tape @ Recycles in Bellville.

worked a charm on my new 650b ZTR crests.

which worked a charm on my old spez epic

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If you use Gorilla Tape, duct tape or any other tape, how do you get rid of the sticky glue residue when you have to remove the tape to replace a spoke etc????

 

Insulation tape..... is he a welder perhaps?????

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  • 2 months later...

If you use Gorilla Tape, duct tape or any other tape, how do you get rid of the sticky glue residue when you have to remove the tape to replace a spoke etc????

 

Insulation tape..... is he a welder perhaps?????

Acetone does the trick very well or even Q20 .... just clean the Q20 properly off afterwards

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  • 1 year later...

Bumping this back to the top. 

 

Found the tape at Builders Express for R60 a roll. Enough on there to convert the whole neighborhood's wheels. Bottle of Batseal and a little play time at the local Engen. 

 

Rear seated in seconds. Front was a pain in the ass due to the tyre being folder up for a while. 

 

Checked this morning and the front needed some air. Could just be that I need to swirl the sealant again. I also think the valve might have been leaking.  Rear was still good. 

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I'm also an avid( :whistling:)  user of Gorilla Tape! It fits and contours to the rim much better than stans tape. I've used to even convert 10 year old syncros rims(v brake) to tubless for the GF.

 

I've never had an issue with residue being left on the rim. The rim is probably cleaner after removing it than it was when I put it on.. That said I did wipe down the rims with surgical alcohol to remove any old sealant when I did a re-application on my front last weekend.

Edited by NukeproofPeanut
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  • 1 year later...

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