Tubeless blow outs - Help needed

[Let's Ride]

Please explain?

 

Bump bump bump over every bump.

 

Lower pressure and you stay on the ground more so more power to the ground.

[Manx18]

If your LBS "converted" your wheels to tubeless it could mean the rims you have are not proper UST rims.

I've had similar burping issues with DT Swiss, never with Mavic UST rims though.

 

3 bar pressure will certainly not aid traction on the technical stuff!

[TNOSE_E]

Bump bump bump over every bump.

 

Lower pressure and you stay on the ground more so more power to the ground.

 

But we are talking rolling resistance, not traction....

[jcza]

From schwalbe website - http://schwalbe.com/gbl/en/technik_info/rollwiderstand/?gesamt=46&ID_Land=38&ID_Sprache=2&ID_Seite=143&tn_mainPoint=Technik

[Doggone]

I run a Schwalbe tubeless at 1.6bar and I weigh 83kg. Never had a problem. I would check the calibration on your pressure guage. i know of people who rung theirs at 1.4-1.5 bar with no problems.

 

I run on the original rims that came with my Anthem 29er. i have Bontrager tubeless rimstrips which makes for a tight fit of the tyre on the rim.

[Andro]

3 Bar works for me.

[jcza]

I run a Schwalbe tubeless at 1.6bar and I weigh 83kg. Never had a problem. I would check the calibration on your pressure guage. i know of people who rung theirs at 1.4-1.5 bar with no problems.

 

I run on the original rims that came with my Anthem 29er. i have Bontrager tubeless rimstrips which makes for a tight fit of the tyre on the rim.

 

Ditto - XTC 29er. I'm not sure my gauge is that accurate but its somewhere between 1.5 & 2.0

[Li Mu Bai]

I run a Schwalbe tubeless at 1.6bar and I weigh 83kg. Never had a problem. I would check the calibration on your pressure guage. i know of people who rung theirs at 1.4-1.5 bar with no problems.

 

I run on the original rims that came with my Anthem 29er. i have Bontrager tubeless rimstrips which makes for a tight fit of the tyre on the rim.

If the tire fit is really loose, then it will burp at the low pressures you describe.

Peeling off a tire by hand without using tire levers = fairly loose.

The lower the pressure, the better the traction as more of the tire tread is spread/pressed onto the ground.

Also rim shape helps this too, a thin rim eg ZTR Alpine, squeezes the tire into a tighter round with less traction. A wide rim Sunringle equaliser 27 or Easton Haven allows the tire to open more with slightly better traction.

tire pressure = horses for courses: for heavy sand and traction on rocky terrain, use less pressure; mud thinner and harder. for speed use a harder tire pressure.

harder pressure will give better speed over rolling farm roads for instance, but your choice of line must be perfect when its gets rocky or loose.

Edited August 28, 2012 by Li Mu Bai

[martinsnyman]

I am not sure which Racing Ralphs I have, on the tyre it only says performance line. The rims are alexrimms that came standard with my Merida 96 3000. The only other writing on the rim is XCD Lite?

[jcza]

I am not sure which Racing Ralphs I have, on the tyre it only says performance line. The rims are alexrimms that came standard with my Merida 96 3000. The only other writing on the rim is XCD Lite?

 

Check on the sidewall of the tyre, it will say EVO or snakeskin. If I remember correctly the EVO is in red.

[martinsnyman]

Check on the sidewall of the tyre, it will say EVO or snakeskin. If I remember correctly the EVO is in red.

Bike is currently at the shop, will check when I get it back tomorrow afternoon - thanks, will revert then - I am almost sure it says P-Line???

[scotty]

I fitted TNT Geax tyres on WTB Lazer Disk wheels and rode on sat with them, front pressure 2.2 rear 2.5, higher than recommended but last thing i want is my tyres to roll off the wheels.

[SwissVan]

The Schwable EVO (tubeless ready not tubeless) Racing Ralph and Rocket Rons side walls are quite thin and for new tyres or newly converted to tubeless they tend to leak easily from small "manufacturing" holes (for want of a better word). These little holes will all get plugged up if you dont rush the process and give the sealant time to seal all the little holes while going thru the tubeless shake, rattle and roll process BEFORE going on your first ride.

 

2 bar for a 105 kg rider sounds like to low a pressure especialy if you are the type to corner fast, wheelie and jump over stuff then the front / back tyre could burp or simply unbead itself rapidly.

[SwissVan]

The Schwable EVO (tubeless ready not tubeless) Racing Ralph and Rocket Rons side walls are quite thin and for new tyres or newly converted to tubeless they tend to leak easily from small "manufacturing" holes (for want of a better word). These little holes will all get plugged up if you dont rush the process and give the sealant time to seal all the little holes while going thru the tubeless shake, rattle and roll process BEFORE going on your first ride.

 

2 bar for a 105 kg rider sounds like to low a pressure especialy if you are the type to corner fast, wheelie and jump over stuff then the front / back tyre could burp or simply unbead itself rapidly.

 

From Notubes website:

 

http://www.notubes.com/documents/TubelessConversion-EN.pdf

 

To complete the sealing process lay the tire flat on an open cardboard box for 1 minutes; the tire should be parallel to the ground allowing the sealant to seal any small leaks on the bead sidewall area. Next, re-bounce, and flip tire to opposite side for an additional 1 minutes (photo 10) Repeat the sealing process until all small leaks are sealed. This should take less than 30 minutes even with difficult tires! Spinning the tire will not seal small leaks on the sidewall; you must shake the wheel to slosh sealant onto the sidewalls.



 

Pay close attention to the sidewalls. There are small holes in most tires around this area causing slow leaks. Re-apply the soap & water solution as needed; it will bubble showing any holes or leaks your tire may have.



 

To successfully seal these holes, hold the tire and bounce the tire in the areas that are still

leaking. Keep re-applying the soap and work until all areas holes are found and are sealed.



 

Some tires have small imperfections or tiny bubbles in the rubber that need to be broken with a fingernail or piece of plastic or they will may pop and leak on their own while the tire is sitting under pressure. Look closely around the sidewall for these small tiny rubber bubbles and pop them then reseal the area..

[martinsnyman]

From Notubes website:

 

http://www.notubes.c...nversion-EN.pdf

 

To complete the sealing process lay the tire flat on an open cardboard box for 1 minutes; the tire should be parallel to the ground allowing the sealant to seal any small leaks on the bead sidewall area. Next, re-bounce, and flip tire to opposite side for an additional 1 minutes (photo 10) Repeat the sealing process until all small leaks are sealed. This should take less than 30 minutes even with difficult tires! Spinning the tire will not seal small leaks on the sidewall; you must shake the wheel to slosh sealant onto the sidewalls.



 

Pay close attention to the sidewalls. There are small holes in most tires around this area causing slow leaks. Re-apply the soap & water solution as needed; it will bubble showing any holes or leaks your tire may have.



 

To successfully seal these holes, hold the tire and bounce the tire in the areas that are still

leaking. Keep re-applying the soap and work until all areas holes are found and are sealed.



 

Some tires have small imperfections or tiny bubbles in the rubber that need to be broken with a fingernail or piece of plastic or they will may pop and leak on their own while the tire is sitting under pressure. Look closely around the sidewall for these small tiny rubber bubbles and pop them then reseal the area..

 

Thank you, this is most helpfull! I am doing the trailseeker 40km on Saturday so will take the bike for a few road rides between now and then. Keep at 2.5bar and check the pressure daily.

[davidlangebaan]

Pressure seems a bit low. Stans tire pressure formula would have you run at 2.4 rear and 2.2 front for your weight. That said I think Schwalbe recommends around 2.4 as the max pressure for their tires if run tubeless.