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Posted

Hi there dear hub techies.

 

I googled around and could not find a satisfactory answer. Can some experienced hubber give us all a run down on how to install this professionally please?

 

Like, most of the stuff is fairly easy and I can help myself with most of the job, but I have no idea what the best routing is for the hoses, or what the ideal length of those hoses must be.

 

Please help.

Posted

Hi there dear hub techies.

 

I googled around and could not find a satisfactory answer. Can some experienced hubber give us all a run down on how to install this professionally please?

 

Like, most of the stuff is fairly easy and I can help myself with most of the job, but I have no idea what the best routing is for the hoses, or what the ideal length of those hoses must be.

 

Please help.

 

My tip regarding hoses:

 

Rather slightly to long than slightly to short, install everything first and adjust brake levers positions how you like them and check which is the best routing options AND THEN shorten if you have to.

 

Sorry but it might seem obvious but i bet there a few diy nightmare stories out there regarding hoses being cut to early and to short.

Posted

So by this you also imply that it is OK to install the hoses dry, using the insert and olive. Then check the length and routing, cut the hose and you are then good to go for the oil injection and bleeding? Or should I leave the insert until I am happy with the length. Because it looks like once that insert is pushed into the hose, it might not come out that easy again.

Posted

TBH I've got no experience making up my own hoses so....best you wait for someone who has done it before to comment on that.

 

Not sure how much difference to the total length the insert will make, but the hoses dont have to be a perfect to the last mm length, you just want to make sure they are routed correctly and long enough plus a bit of extra for future use.

 

I'd say try it dry without insert b4 cutting anything

Posted

So by this you also imply that it is OK to install the hoses dry, using the insert and olive. Then check the length and routing, cut the hose and you are then good to go for the oil injection and bleeding? Or should I leave the insert until I am happy with the length. Because it looks like once that insert is pushed into the hose, it might not come out that easy again.

 

Measure on the bike and remove to connect and tighten hoses. They twist all over the frame making your routing a nightmare. Bleed once you have put them back on. My 2c worth.

Posted (edited)

BTW, I have looked at some bleeding kit prices. Crikey, but they are ridiculous. How they hell do they come to be over R400, with just 2 plastic syringes, a few fittings and oil. Once again it feels like they believe they can screw cyclists because cyclists seem to pay way more for anything.

Edited by Moridin
Posted

BTW, I have looked at some bleeding kit prices. Crikey, but they are ridiculous. How they hell do they come to be over R400, with just 2 plastic syringes, a few fittings and oil. Once again I think they can screw cyclists because cyclists seem to pay way more for anything.

The mineral oil is quite expensive for some unknown reason....

Posted

i didnt do shimano but shinamo is easier than Hope.

 

You can do it dry - if the insert gets stuck you can pull it out with a long-nose pliers - if that dies work - just heat it up slightly. New insterts shouldnt be a problem at all.

 

Make sure the hoses are long enough for your handlebars to turn all the way around - in case of a crash / yard sale. If they are too short and you wipe out, the hose will pull out of the lever which means new brake lines.

 

I havent bled shimano - just check out youtube and make your own.

Posted

OK, got a hold of 2 syringes, 10ml each. Nose of the one syringe fits perfectly into the hole on the top reservoir. Viola.

 

Mineral Oil; at that prices they might as well call it Snake Oil. :whistling:

Posted

OK, have done the brake bleeding, and also mounted the caliper after pulling the brake lever to make it centers itself on the disk. But when I spin the wheel I can hear the pads draging lightly on the disk. What gives? Have done that part of the procedure a few times over and I can't get rid of that.

Posted

Got it sorted. Sometimes you have to use your common sense and not just follow the manual blindly. I got it close using the method in the manual, but I did not completely tighten the bolts. I then tapped it ever so lightly on the correct side using some light shining from behind the caliber to guide me until it made no noise.

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