STRADA Posted October 30, 2012 Share I have had it before, removed pads, on a flat surface put p400 sand paper, rub brake surface to clean them off not saying it is so, but could be solution Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amberdrake Posted October 30, 2012 Share I had same problem on my Titan brakes and tried the loosen pulling brake thing. That didnt fix it however. After some inspection i realized that the one mounting bolt was pushing the caliper off the position it needed for alligned brakes. I happen to have a dremel and showed that bolt who's boss. I would not reccomend that path of action for anyone not used to grinding. My advice turn bike upside down loosen caliper and check it out carefully while brake held and slowly tightening the bolts.Hope this helps someone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted October 30, 2012 Share Yip, that usually happens - the movement when tiightening it. Like Hairy said, tighten them a bit at a time, not one all the way and then the other. This is also a reason why I allign them with the eye and not always the brake 'grabbing' way...play with it, it is worth it. Also learnt that this works best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted October 30, 2012 Share Another point. Good brake alignment become great brake alignment if you get a decent LBS to face the brake mount surface on the frame Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patches Posted October 30, 2012 Share Another point. Good brake alignment become great brake alignment if you get a decent LBS to face the brake mount surface on the frame Would this really make a difference? (seeing as how calipers have slotted mounting holes to allow one to adjust where the caliper sits in relation to the rotor). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted October 31, 2012 Share You then get the calliper mounted on a true and even surface ...... This is "being anal level 9" stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patches Posted October 31, 2012 Share You then get the calliper mounted on a true and even surface ...... This is "being anal level 9" stuff. hmmm, still don't see it as necessary as all my callipers sit on those levelling washers (the concave-convex pairs)... But i guess for the OCD out there, this can be done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyReggae Posted October 31, 2012 Share I had same problem on my Titan brakes and tried the loosen pulling brake thing. That didnt fix it however. After some inspection i realized that the one mounting bolt was pushing the caliper off the position it needed for alligned brakes. I happen to have a dremel and showed that bolt who's boss. I would not reccomend that path of action for anyone not used to grinding. My advice turn bike upside down loosen caliper and check it out carefully while brake held and slowly tightening the bolts.Hope this helps someone. I have the same Titan 29'er Comp that is in your signature photo. I'll definitely check that out, don't have a grinder though. If it is that will make a plan to get it sorted. Edit: What did you wrap around the frame to stop the damage and grease from the chain ? Edited October 31, 2012 by JohnnyReggae Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwtCraigMachine Posted November 1, 2012 Share I have heard of some people having shudder problems with rotors that have curved edges (eg Alligator Windcutter), if the pads are not making proper contact with the rotors. It might be worth checking that the pads are in contact with the rotors throughout the rotation. Sometimes the caliper is too far away from the axle and only catches a portion of the pad on the rotor (if the edge of the rotor is patterned, this will create the shudder). This seems to be most common with mis-matched brakesets (eg 185mm spacer and 180mm rotor), so it's unlikely if yours is still in stock configuration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RockCoach Posted November 1, 2012 Share I have had it before, removed pads, on a flat surface put p400 sand paper, rub brake surface to clean them off not saying it is so, but could be solution If the reallignment stuff doesn't help, then what he said. Sometimes if the rotor and pads aren't bedded in properly then it can cause shuddering. Some areas on the rotor will be braking, and others not. So you kinda getting an ABS effect. Edit: clean rotors with alcohol and sand pads down lightly. Then do the bedding in process again. Edited November 2, 2012 by slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M L Posted November 1, 2012 Share Yip, that usually happens - the movement when tiightening it. Like Hairy said, tighten them a bit at a time, not one all the way and then the other. This is also a reason why I allign them with the eye and not always the brake 'grabbing' way...play with it, it is worth it. That read a bit weird... Edited November 1, 2012 by wheelerdealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayleyearth Posted November 2, 2012 Share I have the same Titan 29'er Comp that is in your signature photo. I'll definitely check that out, don't have a grinder though. If it is that will make a plan to get it sorted. Edit: What did you wrap around the frame to stop the damage and grease from the chain ? You can take a tube (try and get a tin one) and cut it open and wrap it around tightly and cable tie it. Edited November 2, 2012 by hayleyearth M L 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
patches Posted November 2, 2012 Share I have the same Titan 29'er Comp that is in your signature photo. I'll definitely check that out, don't have a grinder though. If it is that will make a plan to get it sorted. Edit: What did you wrap around the frame to stop the damage and grease from the chain ? Like Hayley said, a split tube works well. Otherwise, if your pockets are feeling full, then empty them a bit on a nice c-sixx chain-stay protector Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mojoman Posted November 2, 2012 Share Do both chain stays, you will be suprised at how the non drive side manages to get scratches and marks on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyReggae Posted November 6, 2012 Share You can take a tube (try and get a tin one) and cut it open and wrap it around tightly and cable tie it.I was thinking of doing that, but rather wrap it around, and only cable tie the ends. Figured the easier thing to do would be to buy a chainstay guard, which I did. I was very surprised to see how many little paint chips I had from 2 weeks of commuting to work. On the brake side of things, my shudder is less than before but still there ... next option is STRADA's suggestion. At least the brakes work well ... had to do some serious braking yesterday when some pedestrians decided to walk through traffic right in front of me, and when I had stopped a mere few cm's from them they gave me serious dirty looks ... like what the hell was I doing ?? ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted November 6, 2012 Share I was thinking of doing that, but rather wrap it around, and only cable tie the ends. Figured the easier thing to do would be to buy a chainstay guard, which I did. I was very surprised to see how many little paint chips I had from 2 weeks of commuting to work. On the brake side of things, my shudder is less than before but still there ... next option is STRADA's suggestion. At least the brakes work well ... had to do some serious braking yesterday when some pedestrians decided to walk through traffic right in front of me, and when I had stopped a mere few cm's from them they gave me serious dirty looks ... like what the hell was I doing ?? ... LOL, welcome to the world of commuting where cars are dangerous and pedestrians even more so! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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