Grebel Posted July 2, 2013 Share Anybody know off hand what the bearing numbers are for an FSA Headset bearing and are they available from the likes of BMG? Off of a 2008 Mongoose ECD (Assuming a 1,5" steerer). I haven't stripped the forks off yet but there is a little bit of play so I want to replace them. ThanksG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RED1408 Posted July 2, 2013 Share http://www.ebay.com/...o-/200939070730 http://www.bikeparts.com/search_results.asp?id=BPC355664 These links might help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted July 3, 2013 Share http://www.ebay.com/...o-/200939070730 http://www.bikeparts...sp?id=BPC355664 These links might help. Thanks bud! Had a look at the pictures and the specs and it is a 68082RS Deep Groove Ball Bearing (Based on the number) Made a call to BMG and they quoted me R209,52 exc vat Made a call to Dave Wiseman and was quoted R195 (they need a sample to match to. Might be cheaper) Will strip after the race this weekend and have a look at the bearing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RED1408 Posted July 4, 2013 Share Thanks bud! Had a look at the pictures and the specs and it is a 68082RS Deep Groove Ball Bearing (Based on the number) Made a call to BMG and they quoted me R209,52 exc vat Made a call to Dave Wiseman and was quoted R195 (they need a sample to match to. Might be cheaper) Will strip after the race this weekend and have a look at the bearing. No worries Man, That price from BMG is heavy!! I manufacturer most of the gears for their gearboxes So i'll tune them k@k for that price Have you tried bearing and seal in Jacobs? They might be cheaper. Googled a bit more and came up with these http://www.wilec.co.za/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=115&Itemid=87 They have a branch in KZN as well http://www.wilec.co.za/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=13&Itemid=20 Hope you can come right with a better price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted July 5, 2013 Share Hey Red, I was a bit taken aback by that price as well seeing as we are a large corporate and we have an account with them....! I was expecting a much better price TBH. One of the few times that your LBS came out in front I haven't stripped it yet so I will be riding it with that little bit of play this weekend. Judging by the weather over the last two days I reckon the track in PMB will be muddy so I won't mind a strip and clean. Will have a look and see this weekend or next week. Will give Bearing and Seal a try as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted July 5, 2013 Share Anybody know off hand what the bearing numbers are for an FSA Headset bearing and are they available from the likes of BMG? Off of a 2008 Mongoose ECD (Assuming a 1,5" steerer). I haven't stripped the forks off yet but there is a little bit of play so I want to replace them. ThanksG Give us the bearing dimensions, including any tapers, and I'll see what the alternatives are. But, 1 1/2 inch bearings are expensive animals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted July 5, 2013 Share Give us the bearing dimensions, including any tapers, and I'll see what the alternatives are. But, 1 1/2 inch bearings are expensive animals. Thanks Johan. I will hopefully be stripping this weekend or next week sometime so I will measure up then. According to the links from Ebay, the bearing number is a 68082RS with the following dimensions, OD52, ID40, W7. Once the old one is out I'll measure it up and post the sizes here. ThanksG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RED1408 Posted July 5, 2013 Share Hey Red, I was a bit taken aback by that price as well seeing as we are a large corporate and we have an account with them....! I was expecting a much better price TBH. One of the few times that your LBS came out in front I haven't stripped it yet so I will be riding it with that little bit of play this weekend. Judging by the weather over the last two days I reckon the track in PMB will be muddy so I won't mind a strip and clean. Will have a look and see this weekend or next week. Will give Bearing and Seal a try as well. Yeah that is a first that the LBS came out cheaper, or it's a sign to upgrade the FSA headset (That's the excuse I'd use ) Maybe when you have them out you might get away with just repacking them with grease. Hope this weather does not get any worse, wanting to tear up Giba for the last bit of much needed practice before the enduro. I must make my way up to PMB for a pedal sometime as I've never ridden those trails before Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted July 5, 2013 Share Thanks Johan. I will hopefully be stripping this weekend or next week sometime so I will measure up then. According to the links from Ebay, the bearing number is a 68082RS with the following dimensions, OD52, ID40, W7. Once the old one is out I'll measure it up and post the sizes here. ThanksG OK, I know which ones those are. They are not chamfered like other headset bearings and are almost perfectly square except for a small chamfer on the inside race. I have them for R420-00 for the set. The non-chamfered, non-bike ones are much cheaper but may not work, depending on the headset. These one-offs and esoteric Lefty-like stuff is expensive. I wish manufacturers would just stick to standards. They look like this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted July 8, 2013 Share OK, I know which ones those are. They are not chamfered like other headset bearings and are almost perfectly square except for a small chamfer on the inside race. I have them for R420-00 for the set. The non-chamfered, non-bike ones are much cheaper but may not work, depending on the headset. These one-offs and esoteric Lefty-like stuff is expensive. I wish manufacturers would just stick to standards. So I stripped the fork yesterday and found the following: The steerer is 1 1/8" (You know what they say about assumption....)The bearings feel fairly smooth.The steerer diameter measured at 28,8mm (Should have been 28,6mm for a 1 1/8" steerer)The bearing ID measured at 30mm and there is no excessive taper. Similar taper to the picture you posted. The details off the bearing that is fitted - FSA 874S ACB SUPER BEARING The reason for my concern was that there was vertical play in the head tube when you applied the front brake and rocked the bike backward and forward. There is a plastic taperred split ring where the crown race usually is as well as a ring at the top. I am assuming (again...) that these rings will pull into the chamfer of the bearing when you tighten the top cap to take up some slack but there is still a 0,7mm gap between the bearing and the steerer and I can't see the plastic rings taking the pounding that a DH bike will deliver. Am I missing something here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RED1408 Posted July 8, 2013 Share I get what you are saying there, Just have a few questions for you. I know they might sound dumb but I just got to ask. 1. Have you checked that the front wheel is tight on the fork?2. Is the brake calliper as well as the rotor tight?3. Are the seals on the fork worn causing a "rocking motion" while the brake is pressed? I've had it before that I thought that my headset was loose, which turned out to be my front wheel was not tightened properly with the thru axle. Usually what I do to check that the headset is tight is push the front wheel on a wall and just rock the handle bars while I put a finger under the headset to feel for play. If there is nothing there I move onto the rotor, calliper etc. here is a link to the technical support site. http://www.fullspeedahead.com/techdoc/22/HEADSETS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted July 8, 2013 Share Yeah. I hear you Red. Definitely the headset. Wrapped thumb and forefinger around the bottom of the headset, front brake on and rock. Movement in the headset. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grebel Posted July 9, 2013 Share Give us the bearing dimensions, including any tapers, and I'll see what the alternatives are. But, 1 1/2 inch bearings are expensive animals.So I stripped the fork yesterday and found the following: The steerer is 1 1/8" (You know what they say about assumption....)The bearings feel fairly smooth.The steerer diameter measured at 28,8mm (Should have been 28,6mm for a 1 1/8" steerer)The bearing ID measured at 30mm and there is no excessive taper. Similar taper to the picture you posted. The details off the bearing that is fitted - FSA 874S ACB SUPER BEARING The reason for my concern was that there was vertical play in the head tube when you applied the front brake and rocked the bike backward and forward. There is a plastic taperred split ring where the crown race usually is as well as a ring at the top. I am assuming (again...) that these rings will pull into the chamfer of the bearing when you tighten the top cap to take up some slack but there is still a 0,7mm gap between the bearing and the steerer and I can't see the plastic rings taking the pounding that a DH bike will deliver. Am I missing something here? Johan? Anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RED1408 Posted July 10, 2013 Share Hey man, Did you come right with the head set? If not, post some pictures here and the model name. I'm sure we'll figure something out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skylark Posted July 10, 2013 Share Had same issue.... thru axle was loose, never happened before. went through tightening up the headset before I realized the wheels were wobbling.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelass Posted July 11, 2013 Share Had a simular situation two weeks ago on a cane creek tapered headset two weeks ago.Found my bottom bearing had collapsed completely.Replaced both bearings,but either had play, or the headset was too tight,eventually fixed it by filing the top 'plate on the inside as it was griding against the lower OD top headset.Something I also found strange was the top bearing seemed very loose on the outer race in the headset?Eventually resorted to punching the outer race aluminium ( jippo thing I know) and it now is ok.Do a lot of jumps and although the headset is only about 9 months old it seems as thou they dont last very long depending on the type of riding you do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now