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Posted

So, did you have your problem fixed?

 

I don't know about you but I'll *have* to rebleed my brakes (Elixir R) when I'll replace my pads. Due to the fact that I've bled them with the pads half worn and they're soo close to the disk all the time, I'm sure I won't have enough room to install new pads.

 

These brakes came with the bike, but when the time comes, I'll try another brand with more pad/disk clearance.

Posted

I replace my Avid Elixir CR pads yesterday, not because they were worn, but purely because I lost all sense of humor with brakes that sound like steal on steal.

 

The new pads that I bought was quite thick and even with the calipers pressed back and the adjuster completely open, there was still not enough clearance between the disk and the pads.

 

The solution is quite simple: Take the new pads out, rub them lightly on sandpaper to take a fraction of the thickness off, put them back in and Bob is your uncle....work like a bom!

Posted (edited)

I replace my Avid Elixir CR pads yesterday, not because they were worn, but purely because I lost all sense of humor with brakes that sound like steal on steal.

 

The new pads that I bought was quite thick and even with the calipers pressed back and the adjuster completely open, there was still not enough clearance between the disk and the pads.

 

The solution is quite simple: Take the new pads out, rub them lightly on sandpaper to take a fraction of the thickness off, put them back in and Bob is your uncle....work like a bom!

 

Tried with the lever reach no luck - just gonna ride to the top of Paarl Mountain and if they still "tring" along at the bottom, will sand them

Edited by paarlmtb
Posted

Tried with the lever reach no luck - just gonna ride to the top of Paarl Mountain and if they still "tring" along at the bottom, will sand them

Which allen bolt did you adjust? There are two at each leaver. Adjust the very small one (right inside) (anticlockwise to release pressure)

Posted (edited)
It's that light scraping that I am talking about!

 

Are your rotors 100% true?

Do your brake mounts need facing?

Ok those are probably not your problem but something to consider.

 

It's pretty much a fact of life you will have a little amount of intermittent pad contact no matter how well you set up your brakes and how expensive they are.

If you free spin your wheel it shouldn't noticeable slow the wheel down, a little bit is normal esp on an old bike with old calipers and old rotors.

 

Last thing is you may be pumping to much brake fluid into the system when you bleed them. The problem is you won't notice that when the pads are worn, only when you put in new pads and the pistons need to be able to retract fully to give the space for the added material on the pads.

 

Take out the brake pads open the MC/lever bleed screw - then push the pistons all the way home, ie so when you push them home they don't pop a bit out again. If there is to much fluid in the system then a little bit of fluid will come out the bleed screw hole on the lever when you push the pistons in - problem solved.

 

Remember to keep the lever level when you do this or else fluid will come out whatever you do, ie don't leave the lever at its normal position and just open the bleed screw - make it level and then do it.(this depends where the bleed screw is positioned on your levers - use common sense!)

Edited by Skylark
Posted
Called pad roll-back or lack thereof. Not only Avid but Formula has the same problem.

 

I can vouch for that, I have a pair of 2011 Formula The One FR on the DH bike, and the pads are just as close as on the Elixirs.

Posted

Which allen bolt did you adjust? There are two at each leaver. Adjust the very small one (right inside) (anticlockwise to release pressure)

 

My elixir have a setting you can do with your fingers on the front of the lever

Posted

Are your rotors 100% true?

Do your brake mounts need facing?

Ok those are probably not your problem but something to consider.

 

It's pretty much a fact of life you will have a little amount of intermittent pad contact no matter how well you set up your brakes and how expensive they are.

If you free spin your wheel it shouldn't noticeable slow the wheel down, a little bit is normal esp on an old bike with old calipers and old rotors.

 

Last thing is you may be pumping to much brake fluid into the system when you bleed them. The problem is you won't notice that when the pads are worn, only when you put in new pads and the pistons need to be able to retract fully to give the space for the added material on the pads.

 

Take out the brake pads open the MC/lever bleed screw - then push the pistons all the way home, ie so when you push them home they don't pop a bit out again. If there is to much fluid in the system then a little bit of fluid will come out the bleed screw hole on the lever when you push the pistons in - problem solved.

 

Remember to keep the lever level when you do this or else fluid will come out whatever you do, ie don't leave the lever at its normal position and just open the bleed screw - make it level and then do it.(this depends where the bleed screw is positioned on your levers - use common sense!)

 

I think it is the overfilling (bled too well) so will add a piece of cardboard on either side of bleed block next time I bleed

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