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Posted

If you are willing to part with the cash for carbon rims, I would suggest building a pair and not buying a complete wheel set.

 

Hand built wheels can be customized to your riding style and weight and weaknesses in complete sets can be eliminated (for e.g. Easton freewheel and Roval hub bearings).

 

I would suggest: Enve rims with Chris King hubs (if you have lots of money) or the 2013 32 spoke Roval rims with XTR hubs (if you have less money - but still more than average Joe).

Posted

I have built up quite a few sets of BOOTH carbon 29er wheels, both using ISO hubs and Lefty hubs with absolutely no issues. RIders have completed Epic, Sani and Imana, wheels are as true and stiff as the day I built them.

 

I have used 24, 28 and 32 hole rims depending on weight and riding style of the buyer. All have been set up as tubeless with either RaRa or RoRo tyres.

 

Getting the tyres to seat can be a bitch, even with a compressor, and if you lose the seal on the trail best put a tube in, it will take a miracle to seal with a hand pump or bomb.

 

The lightest set with CX-Ray spokes was a lefty 24 hole at 598g front, and 833g rear 28 hole, both Project321 hubs, WITH tape and valve.

 

Using American Classic I reckon I could get rear down another 80g.

Posted (edited)

I have built up quite a few sets of BOOTH carbon 29er wheels, both using ISO hubs and Lefty hubs with absolutely no issues. RIders have completed Epic, Sani and Imana, wheels are as true and stiff as the day I built them.

 

I have used 24, 28 and 32 hole rims depending on weight and riding style of the buyer. All have been set up as tubeless with either RaRa or RoRo tyres.

 

Getting the tyres to seat can be a bitch, even with a compressor, and if you lose the seal on the trail best put a tube in, it will take a miracle to seal with a hand pump or bomb.

 

The lightest set with CX-Ray spokes was a lefty 24 hole at 598g front, and 833g rear 28 hole, both Project321 hubs, WITH tape and valve.

 

Using American Classic I reckon I could get rear down another 80g.

 

And what would the numbers be for a pair with Amercian Classic hubs ?

15mm through axle and QR at the rear .

Edited by Clinton H
Posted

Guys, the only thing with running carbon, is what I call the pringle factor,the rim dont bend, but snap, or the rims dont seal due to crushing in the bead zone etc.

 

Two brands i havent seen crush are Enve and Reynolds, all the others are no-where near the 400g mark in clincher form. I have seen Rovals crush, DTs crush ( even in alu) and a number of ZTRs, but given the popularity thats acceptable.

 

This is the main reason why I went tubbies, was to get away from crushed carbon clincher. Yes you still damage the carbon tubs, but they are 100g per rim lighter and you dont loose air if your rim is damaged.Also way lower pressures can be run.

 

 

 

Posted

Guys, the only thing with running carbon, is what I call the pringle factor,the rim dont bend, but snap, or the rims dont seal due to crushing in the bead zone etc.

 

Two brands i havent seen crush are Enve and Reynolds, all the others are no-where near the 400g mark in clincher form. I have seen Rovals crush, DTs crush ( even in alu) and a number of ZTRs, but given the popularity thats acceptable.

 

This is the main reason why I went tubbies, was to get away from crushed carbon clincher. Yes you still damage the carbon tubs, but they are 100g per rim lighter and you dont loose air if your rim is damaged.Also way lower pressures can be run.

 

Unfortunately you are completely wrong on ENVE...

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