ichnusa Posted August 5, 2013 Share Any suggestions on how to remove these blighters? The angle is too acute to tap out from the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted August 5, 2013 Share Any suggestions on how to remove these blighters? The angle is too acute to tap out from the other side. Are those sealed bearing races? did you break the bearing to get the inner out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted August 5, 2013 Share You get an internal bearing puller which expands with a lip that grips the race. An alternative is to run a small arc weld along about 1/8 th the length of the race and then immediatly tap it out (with a hammer and punch). Just don't miss the race with the weld - not pretty on the aliminium! Edited August 5, 2013 by Chowder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ichnusa Posted August 5, 2013 Share Yes, the outer race of a sealed bearing. I have this tool to remove the bearing from the link, but unfortunately the inner race pressed out without the ball bearings and outer race... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bradwentzel Posted August 5, 2013 Share PM Johan Bornman. He is the bearing guru Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymann Posted August 5, 2013 Share Get an M6 bolt and nut (Caps also work) which is just short of the diameter of the bearing outer race. Screw the nut up the shaft of the bolt, brace the bolt head against the inside of the one side of the inner race, and then screw the nut out so that it jams up against the opposite side of the inner race. You should now have a nice tight shaft jammed up against the two opposite sides of the outer race, which you can then hit from the opposite side with a piece of brass. You might have to apply a bit of heat to help things move along. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ichnusa Posted August 5, 2013 Share Get an M6 bolt and nut (Caps also work) which is just short of the diameter of the bearing outer race. Screw the nut up the shaft of the bolt, brace the bolt head against the inside of the one side of the inner race, and then screw the nut out so that it jams up against the opposite side of the inner race. You should now have a nice tight shaft jammed up against the two opposite sides of the outer race, which you can then hit from the opposite side with a piece of brass. You might have to apply a bit of heat to help things move along. Unfortunately the inner race is out already... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymann Posted August 5, 2013 Share oops sorry - typo. Outer race. You need to brace the bolt across the two sides of the outer race, and then tap the bolt from the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andymann Posted August 5, 2013 Share PM me and I'll draw you a quick sketch.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted August 5, 2013 Share Yes, the outer race of a sealed bearing. I have this tool to remove the bearing from the link, but unfortunately the inner race pressed out without the ball bearings and outer race... I have a similar set of collet pullers - if you are in Jhb we can try to get it out. You might be able to run a tap in to get some threads on the inner race - and then put a bolt in and pull that out - going to have to be a quality tap though - the race will be hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ichnusa Posted August 5, 2013 Share Thanks V12 - I am in PMB... I will give it a try and if all else fails take it to mr Minn senior to sort out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted August 5, 2013 Share Thanks V12 - I am in PMB... I will give it a try and if all else fails take it to mr Minn senior to sort out Maybe just drop it off at a local automotive engineering shop... and let them worry about it Why lose credibility at a bike shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted August 5, 2013 Share Welcome to Santa Cruz and its unique problems. Those are angular contact bearings and disintegrate very easily. Ironically they don't have lateral strength of a deep groove bearing. I say ironic, since they're made for lateral loads...but that's another story. You must have a collect expander, just about nothing else will work. The welding trick works well if you have clearance but you have none....nowhere on the bike do you have clearance for such tricks anyway. You aint gonna tap that sucker, it is hard carbon steel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V12man Posted August 5, 2013 Share If you don't come right - send it to me - I will get it spark eroded out for you - guaranteed to work - if somewhat overkill... @Johan - you can tap hard carbon steel - just not the easiest thing to do without breaking tools - I have had 2 broken bearings removed this way (but not on a bike - gearbox bearings) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johan Bornman Posted August 5, 2013 Share @Johan - you can tap hard carbon steel - just not the easiest thing to do without breaking tools - I have had 2 broken bearings removed this way (but not on a bike - gearbox bearings) Where can I come for lessons? But, can you spark erode shapes in metal? I need some 8mm hex holes "drilled" in some mild steel. How would one do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porqui Posted August 5, 2013 Share 10mm dia mild steel round bar 200mm long - use a 4 pound hammer flare the one end of the bar and use the flared end from the other side to TAP out bearing using a smaller hammer. You can get quite a large flare on the bar. Edited August 5, 2013 by porqui Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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