Knoblies vs slicks

[arendoog]

My Crossmark,s have being used for training on tar for more than 2 years .I do 4 to 6 hours a week on tar and have done 3 road races with them pumped to 3 bar .They look hardly used .Will not use my nobby nic, x king combo for training

[DIRT EATER KZN]

So on the 94.7... What is the real saving / advantage of putting on slicks vs knoblies on a MTB?

Spent all my money on my road bike and don't think I have time to get use to it so gonna wing the 94.7 on my MTB with knoblies

pal just ride the road bike I rode my father in laws spare bike twice before tour Durban and smoked it think if im not mistaken 2hours 58 just get out front and don't let the bunch suck you in just found as the free loaders started being picked up they started making ***

[usxorf]

Nobby nic on the rear of my bike lasted 2400km with about 70% of that on tar. The front tire is at about 75% down the middle, but some of the side knobblies are quarter eaten. Running a MKII on the back, hopefully I can get more mileage out of it. It's at 1000km and looks like 10% wear.

 

Just to add something relevant to the topic of discussion, by gut feel (and avg speed) my road bike vs mtb is worth about 5km/h average. Slicks will make you faster on road.

Edited November 6, 2013 by usxorf

[Captain Fastbastard Mayhem]

A nice bombastic post.

Ease off on the testosterone and coffee. It is not Friday yet.

Please add substance to your post and TELL us how many km's YOU got on tar with Ardents?

 

Sigh. No testosterone. I just get fed up when people give BAD advice founded on improper "facts" and make sweeping statements when there are so many different variables at work, and don't apply their common sense when recommending something.

 

But here you go:

 

Crossmarks in a 29er are only available in the hardest tire compound you get for bike tires (MTB tires, knobbly) which is 70a. This is, generally, the same hardness rating that passenger motor vehicle tyres have on your normal Goodyear / Conti / Yokohama tires that come specced with the cars off the showroom floor.

 

Ardents: They come in a 60a compound ONLY

 

Wolverines: 60a middle & 50a on the edges.

 

Rollerblade wheels start at 74a compound.

 

 

 

On my wolverines, when I still had them, they were worn out on the centre knobs within 100km of road riding (200km total riding, dirt & road combined) Worn out to the extent that they would not grip when riding up technical singletrack (roots, rocks, that sort of thing) and would spin out if the trail got either too dusty or there was an absence of anything but gravel and hardpack.

 

The next set, which I treated better, lasted a full year of riding solely on dirt, with far more mileage.

 

They have now been replaced with my Weirwolf, which is on the back and my HAns Dampf is on the front. I make an effort to miss as much tar as possible, as they will be ripped to shreds.

 

One has to note that this principally applies to REAR tires though, due to the extra weight on that side of the bike (through the saddle) and the rear being the tire that receives the driving force through the chain etc.

 

So - again. It is BAD advice to recommend that the OP uses his Ardents, because they WILL wear out prematurely and he will most probably have to buy at least one new tire at the end of the ride, or very shortly thereafter, to replace the rear.

[porqui]

To OP - why did you get a road bike ??

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then use it damnit!!