Adjusting Shimano SLX M655 brakes

[CogitoErgoSum]

How do I adjust my Shimano SLX front brake on my mtb? The brake pad catches the disc very slightly - the wheel doesn't want to turn freely.

 

Also, there is a funny squealling sound coming from the front axle. What could that be?

 

Thanks in advance for the advise/input. Much appreciated

[rouxtjie]

Easy peasy...

 

Loosten both bolts holding the caliper to the fork....not all the way, just enough for the caliper to move around a little without moering off.

 

 

Pull the lever on the brake, it will clamp on rotor....pump it a couple of times to get a good bite. Ok now tighten bolts without letting go of the lever...

 

Done and done..no more brake rub.

[GhostSixFour]

Easy peasy...

 

Loosten both bolts holding the caliper to the fork....not all the way, just enough for the caliper to move around a little without moering off.

 

 

Pull the lever on the brake, it will clamp on rotor....pump it a couple of times to get a good bite. Ok now tighten bolts without letting go of the lever...

 

Done and done..no more brake rub.

 

I assume this means to release and then re-engage the brake lever?

I need to do this on almost a weekly basis - really trying to figure out what is going wrong with mine.

[Cruz Addict]

How do I adjust my Shimano SLX front brake on my mtb? The brake pad catches the disc very slightly - the wheel doesn't want to turn freely.

 

Also, there is a funny squealling sound coming from the front axle. What could that be?

 

Thanks in advance for the advise/input. Much appreciated

when you say catches the disc do you mean on the top/ edge of the disc or the actual breaking surface?

if its the edge of the disc you are going to need to get a slightly bigger spacer to move the calliper away from the disc, if you mean the breaking surface and its catching evenly of both sides as opposed to just one side you are going to need to remove the pads, push the pistons out. try installing the pads again and pump the breaks until you have bite and the break performs as it should.

if is only one side do as routjie said and you are golden.

[rouxtjie]

I assume this means to release and then re-engage the brake lever?

I need to do this on almost a weekly basis - really trying to figure out what is going wrong with mine.

Yea, what is wrong with yours? what is it doing?

 

If you need to pump it just for it to brake, then it needs a bleed and or pads are toast.

 

The only reason I said pump the brake while adjusting is to get a proper bite, you shouldnt need to do this just to brake

[Eldron]

If the Rouxtjie method does not work (it works for 95% of brakes ) then move onto the manual method.

 

Loosen brake bolts - then align the caliper maunally - look from the top of the caliper and check that the pads are parallel and have equal amounts of clearance on each side. Adjust as needed and tighten bolts.

 

If you need to pump your brakes often then you have Avids not Shimano :-)

 

Seriously though - there is a leak in the resorvoir. Rebuild them.

[GhostSixFour]

Yea, what is wrong with yours? what is it doing?

 

If you need to pump it just for it to brake, then it needs a bleed and or pads are toast.

 

The only reason I said pump the brake while adjusting is to get a proper bite, you shouldnt need to do this just to brake

 

I need to loosen the caliper and do the whole bite onto caliper while fastening bolts at least every 2nd ride - and they go out of alignment quite a bit. Thinking I might need to bleed them as a last resort..

[Eldron]

I need to loosen the caliper and do the whole bite onto caliper while fastening bolts at least every 2nd ride - and they go out of alignment quite a bit. Thinking I might need to bleed them as a last resort..

 

That is odd. Never heard of this problem - once they're tight they should not move.

 

Only thing I can think of is - do not pull the brake level if the wheel is out. If you transport your bike with the wheels out a lot this might happen.

 

Check your rotor for straightness?

[rouxtjie]

That is odd. Never heard of this problem - once they're tight they should not move.

 

Only thing I can think of is - do not pull the brake level if the wheel is out. If you transport your bike with the wheels out a lot this might happen.

 

Check your rotor for straightness?

Yes, what Eldron said....cant think of any other reason.

 

Do you have 9mm QR in the front...if you slot your wheel in and out alot because you are transporting it / washing it, it could be the culprit

 

15mm thru ftw

[divernick]

Check your rotor for straightness?

Yes you may have a ghey rotor. Is it made by Avid?

[GhostSixFour]

That is odd. Never heard of this problem - once they're tight they should not move.

 

Only thing I can think of is - do not pull the brake level if the wheel is out. If you transport your bike with the wheels out a lot this might happen.

 

Check your rotor for straightness?

 

Had the rotors out and checked with spirit level more times than I wish to remember - pulling the brakes with wheels out requires me to take out the pads and push the calipers back in, everytime..

[GhostSixFour]

Yes, what Eldron said....cant think of any other reason.

 

Do you have 9mm QR in the front...if you slot your wheel in and out alot because you are transporting it / washing it, it could be the culprit

 

15mm thru ftw

 

Have 9mm QR in front. I think that the tension might be a slight bit different each time and this causes the alignment of the fork to move - moving the caliper and stuffing up the brakepad alignment as well. My current diagnosis.

 

Have a RaidOn Fork.

[Eldron]

Have 9mm QR in front. I think that the tension might be a slight bit different each time and this causes the alignment of the fork to move - moving the caliper and stuffing up the brakepad alignment as well. My current diagnosis.

 

Have a RaidOn Fork.

 

Ah - one thought. Check your drop outs for dirt. Clean them out then put the wheel back.

 

Learn an assembly method - meaning - put your wheel back using the same method everytime. I can only think that you're putting the wheel back differently every time and having to realign the caliper to match the wheel.

 

My method is: stand over bike with chest on bars - one arm each side of fork. put some weight on bars with chest and tighten QR.

[GhostSixFour]

Will try doing this going forward - and will try to make of not removing wheels as much anymore.

 

Thanks for the assistance!

[David Marshall]

How do I adjust my Shimano SLX front brake on my mtb? The brake pad catches the disc very slightly - the wheel doesn't want to turn freely.

 

Also, there is a funny squealling sound coming from the front axle. What could that be?

 

Thanks in advance for the advise/input. Much appreciated

 

I would be more concerned with the squeal. Sort that first.

[rouxtjie]

Have 9mm QR in front. I think that the tension might be a slight bit different each time and this causes the alignment of the fork to move - moving the caliper and stuffing up the brakepad alignment as well. My current diagnosis.

 

Have a RaidOn Fork.

Yip not enough for you to notice that the wheel is hanging skew in the dropout but half a mm will be the difference between a silent vs rubbing ride...

 

Also look into what eldron said, make sure the dropouts are clean when putting the wheel back