Cruz Addict

and from the OP i assume you mean brake hoses not cables?

Point 2. NEVER EVER, shimano uses mineral oil, avid use dot( dont know which one) the dot fluid will destroy the components of the shimano breaks, not sure what exactly, think its some of the seals as they are not designed for DOT fluid which can be corrosive if the components are not designed for the fluid. if you dont believe me drop some on car paintwork it will strip the paint to the bodywork. same principal in shimano brakes.

uh wow, 33 years. no offence meant to your trade or what you do for a living but i would be very nervous of using you as as a supplier based on that statement: https://www.bssa.org.uk/cms/File/Microsoft%20Word%20-%20SSAS2.31-Fastener%20Grades%20A1,A2_A3_%20&%20A4_A5_%20to%20BS%20EN%20ISO%203506.pdf

you need at least an A1 hardened steel bolt, using Ti bolts on suspension linkage is never a good idea, one hard landing and bang its toast. i had a similar problem on my scott ransom, i kept breaking the suspension linkage bolt. no matter what i bought they always broke, if not they bent which was even worse as getting them out becomes very difficult found an engineering shop in Randburg to whom i explained the problem. they suggested i bring a sample and they would make up an A1 bolt for me, as a standard M3 bolt i was able to get a sample form builders at like R4 or something stupid like that, took to them and viola had an A1 which worked like a demon till i snapped the frame itself. that was 2 or so years on. you can get harder but then there are other complications like corrosive properties etc to consider.

so today I have the shock of discovering I have fallen victim to a scam, in January I decided to build up a road bike as it seemed like a good idea at the time and I had some spare funds. started looking all over the hub and found a Pinarello Dogma 60.1 frame for sale out of CT by Marco Crow Knowing nothing about road frames or the apparent replica/ fake frames I examined the price, did some research as to the age an figured it was a good price so went through the process of communicating with the seller and buying the frame( unfortunately all communication was via WhatsApp which I have long since deleted as I did not see it as relevant to my life any further). As I have never really had any interest in road cycling apart from looking at a few road bikes and thinking some are better looking than others I have never paid any attention to or even researched possible fake frames and what to ask or look for. ( now before all the keyboard warriors with big balls behind the keyboards but small dicks in real life, start making statements that I am a **** for not doing research etc, my statement is why would I if I have no reason to suspect, based on my knowledge, of anything being untoward) After reading this thread I have done some research and have found that the frame has a space on the bottom where I would assume a serial number is supposed to be. It is weird in that it is a perfect space and just seems that the serial was not placed on the frame and clear coated over. Based on the things to look out for in this thread I have done a very thorough check of the bike and cannot see any flaws or aspects of what have been mentioned here. I was completely under the impression that the frame was real. Unfortunately Road cycling is just not my thing and have advertised the bike for sale here on the hub. Knowing what I do now that advert will be removed immediately but it is a huge disappointment. Even on comparison to a friend’s original( bought from agents etc) no one can tell the difference between the 2 bikes. So now I am faced with a bike I don’t really enjoy to ride that I cannot sell. Feeling very pissed off I must be honest!!

uh sorry to add to your confusion here but have you considered this: https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-ZA/hightower more trail than the Tallboy, from reading your requirements i think it would be a better fit. or even this: https://www.santacruzbicycles.com/en-ZA/hightower-lt but the 150mm travel may be too much for what you want to do just my 2c

i stand at 6ft 1 and have long arms, i have been running 800mm flat bars with a 40mm stem for almost 2 years and i cant remember when if ever i have had a problem with them being too wide for a trail. that said its on a SC nomad so its definitely gravity orientated!!

http://www.instructables.com/id/Hollowtech-2-bearing-change/

i haven't had the time to read the whole thread but a few things from a couple of the posts i have read. wash you bike after every single ride, muddy or not, the dust etc will destroy bearings as even sealed bearing get fine dust into them and this creates a grinding paste.never ever use sunlight or handy andy, these are chemical yes but also contain abrasive particles to help get the surfaces they are meant to be used, these are very fine but after time you will notice the paint and clear coat will become cloudy as a result.yes invest in a chain c leaner and water based degreaser.i use builders warehouse pink stuff with a soft horse brush and in a spray bottle, gets the bike shiny clean every time.only use wet lube for wet conditions and dry lube for dry conditions, if you are doing a ride where it looks threatening use an intermediate lube.never ever ever use a high pressure washer!!!!!i dry with a rag and a little baby oil on the frame, makes my baby look brand new every time( just a little dont try lube her up like your wife trying to get lucky)use a clean dry rag to dry the chain and leave the bike in the sun to dry the cassette.i use rock shox/ Sram Butter to greaese my fork stanchions and shock stanchion, its designed to work and it does, suspension feels brand new every time.thats my bike routine, takes about 30 min and my baby looks brand new almost 3 years after buying her!!

ok so i finished my first half, Om di Dam with little to no training in the last 6 weeks due to illness, only did a n 8km half run half die last Monday. very pleased to say i actually finished the race, time not great but for my first half and the longest run i have ever done i am pleased. now to enter my next!!

RIP, never knew Tumbleweed but sad to see a fellow cyclist go in such a way. condolences to his friends and family.

short answer.... YES

i would assume its a std m6 bolt as per others, go to builders warehouse and buy a few normal m6 bolts. they are roughly R2 each or so. then add a little blue lock-tight to the end and insert. i have used the black ones( no idea which type of material they are but they are not a10 hardened bolts. i have raced DH and enduro events for more than 2 years on my current set and they are as good as the day i bought them). yes you can order special a10 ones but they are frikken expensive and as far as i can tell are not necessary. sorry a10 is the hardness factor produced by the method they use to temper the steel in case you are wondering. from my investigations.

uh beer or whiskey? beer's going to taste *** watered down, 150ml whiskey is going to make for a very interesting ride

i registered my frame when i bought it in 2015, this was obviously done on the international site as SC in SA was not really an entity. will i receive invites to the owners club events etc as well? sorry forgot to mention, it was bought in SA through the agents at the time.

hmm, maybe if his front wheel was running true he could have gone faster? still an awesome achievement though. frikken maniac.

OP how about a link to the add?

i am late to comment on this but here is my side of the debate: i managed to snap my bike frame 2 years ago and was desperately looking at my options, insurance wouldn't pay out and i was a very miserable person( or so my wife tells me) i looked around and had a frank conversation with my wife and cycle lab and found exactly what i wanted. i looked a bike life through other shops etc but this wasn't feasible as they would not allow me to build my bike the way i wanted it. the do not allow discounted bikes to be financed through them, only 100% retail cost( i have found out via the grape vine that they receive a 10k subsidy form the bike agents/ manufactures/ whomever it may be due to this). the Lab went out of their way to get me a Santa Cruz Nomad frame and all the parts i wanted to build my bike, they discounted the hell out of it and i ended up roughly i for R54k excluding the interest, i have finakced over 36 months and will all in end up paying roughly 70k. there are people that are going to say its stupid and i should never have done it but my reasoning was that i would never have been able to buy that cash, if i wanted to save for it i would have been without a bike for the time it took me to save and due to the R going to hell in a handbag my bike has now increased in value( very substantially i might add) i look at it from the point of view that i can afford the installments and the interest i see as an investment in my happiness. i have my dream bike, am more often than i care to mention complimented on my awesome bike and couldn't be happier. if i take what it is going to cost and work it backwards vs the frame alone now costing close to 50k i am up on all accounts. no financing toys isn't smart but again that depends on where you sit financially and your affordability, personally i ca t save 5k to buy anything i want as i always find ways to spend the money so for me the investment is in mine and my families happiness. the cost of cycling is stupid in this country, so much so that its almost cheaper to take a trip to France and buy a YT there, spend a week riding and come back than it is to buy locally. so my 2c is that financing a bike isnt smart no but for some is the better way to go.

ok so i have found a company close to me that will do it for me, i am looking at getting my DH 661 helmet and my road bike frame done. the price for the frame is R1800 and the helmet is R700. exactly how specific the design can be etc i have no idea but will let you guys know once i have some feedback and a test case as such for the project.

Hey guys, has anyone looked into hydro dipping a frame as a refereb? i have seen this done many time and am looking at doing this for my road bike as a refresh project.' just curious if anyone else have done anything like this? below is a vid of the process:

ok so initially i was in for running my first 21km in 7 or so weeks, this being the Om di Dam, but now i have entered on a whim the PWC 21km on sat this week. while my training has been going well i think i may have pulled the trigger a bit to soon. i think i am going to hurt lots and am actually sh*t scared but am looking forward to it. will feed back on Monday if i live.

just pulled the trigger and entered Om di Dam half in 10 weeks time, going to be a challenge as i am not a runner and although i can run 10km now, thats not a 21km. going to have to train hard before then.

some shots taken in December with my iphone 6s, with a little bit of Photoshop color and exposure corrections done on the phone.

hmm that's tough one, Leatte are awesome as a brand and always put plenty of research into their product development. but Bell as stated have been in the game for a lot longer. personally i prefer the Bell color schemes and have personally put a Super to the test, i crashed head first into an embankment at about 20 odd km an hour and managed to crack the Super 1 straight across the brow just above my forehead. i walked away with shoulder damage and some scrapes and bruises but survived a head on without so much as a concussion. based on this and the crash replacement warranty i picked up a Super 2 for less than a grand and have complete faith in the fact that the lid will and has in the past saved my life. i think its a personal choice though, the Leatte looks cool and i am sure will do exactly what they say it will( also its a SA brand from what i understand) but for me i think the Bell would get my money.

not ceramic but i found this the other day, very interesting to see,. ignore the Chinese just watch the performance difference. sorry for the slight hijack.