Sidmouth Posted December 28, 2013 Share I agree the standard Roval wheel sit perfectly balanced allied between the fork.The new wheel sat very much to the left, all the filing has done is put a tilt on the wheel so that from the riders view all looks right,but by filing one drop-out upwards has put a tilt on the wheel, quick and easy solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Earp Posted December 28, 2013 Share I agreethe standard Roval wheel sit perfectly balanced allied between the fork.The new wheel sat very much to the left, all the filing has done is put a tilt on the wheel so that from the riders view all looks right,but by filing one drop-out upwards has put a tilt on the wheel, quick and easy solution. Tell them they owe you new fork lowers and no other excuse will do.Totally unacceptable, I hate this kind of thing and that Bornman guy advocated all sorts of tinkering and boer maak ń plan stuff, that is why people do rubbish like this. This is unacceptable. ChUkKy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaKiwi Posted December 28, 2013 Share They owe you a new fork! ChUkKy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidmouth Posted December 28, 2013 Share I went to my LBStook the wheel to the mechanic and asked to use the dishing tool, checked 3 times, wheel is 100% perfect.still not happy I asked to put the new wheel on a new bike, perfect.The only conclusion is that my fork is out, in fairness I bought the bike second hand so I have no prior knowledge of the fork history.the only option of the LBS was to file a bit off the fork to get the wheel to alien or to replace the fork, they did me a favor and I owe them an apology. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighter-Lights Posted December 28, 2013 Share I've not read all the posts but google - is it a SID? there was a call back for SIDs where the lowers were cast skew... I bought 2 new SID's that had alignment issues - front wheel also kept moving after braking hard - one dropout was lower/higher than the other, hub flanges were not parallel to dropout tabs, wheel kept moving even with skewer very tight. I made a 9mm axle tool, filled the one side with epoxy, inserted the tool while epoxy cured, all problems fixed. I'm not saying it's the issue with your fork, but if the wheel is dished correctly and is still skew when fitted then the problem is with the fork's lowers. Not dangerous at all when using the right epoxy - many sheet metal forming dies are made from alu filled resin - hard enough to give up to 2000 stamped parts where several tons are at play - the downward force on a bike fork isn't a fraction of the forces the above tooling withstand... even unfilled epoxy will be more than hard enough. Edited December 28, 2013 by Brighter-Lights johannrissik 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighter-Lights Posted December 28, 2013 Share http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/rock-shox-sid-problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sidmouth Posted December 28, 2013 Share What is SID Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChUkKy Posted December 28, 2013 Share they had filed one drop out in the fork down to compensated, as they said the wheels were perfectly dished. Is this a standard practice? My previous wheel set sat flush in the same fork, or is it ok to be slightly out I hope you smashed that fork that he filed in his face, ramming the stanchion down his throat!!! WTF did they file your fork for, kick his head in!!!! Ask for a refund on the wheels and a new fork once you remove it from his face. I dont condone violence by any means but the only proper help for staff like that comes in the forms of 9mm and .45cal Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DawieO Posted December 28, 2013 Share Tell them they owe you new fork lowers and no other excuse will do.Totally unacceptable, I hate this kind of thing and that Bornman guy advocated all sorts of tinkering and boer maak ń plan stuff, that is why people do rubbish like this. This is unacceptable. I think that offhanded attack on Johan was uncalled for. Perhaps stick with the topic. Pin-it, Pusher, johannrissik and 1 other 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Earp Posted December 28, 2013 Share I think that offhanded attack on Johan was uncalled for. Perhaps stick with the topic. I don't care what you think and it's not off hand, telling people they can modify their bike adhoc is wrong and the reason some shop mechanics do as they please, deal with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DawieO Posted December 28, 2013 Share I did deal with it. You could as easily have stated that you believe it is dangerous to undertake the kind of hacking described by the OP., and happen to strongly agree with you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wyatt Earp Posted December 28, 2013 Share I did deal with it. You could as easily have stated that you believe it is dangerous to undertake the kind of hacking described by the OP., and happen to strongly agree with you. Don't waste my time as you just made it very clear that you didn't bother readings my posts, instead you nitpicked, trolling for a fight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brighter-Lights Posted December 28, 2013 Share Everybody is over reacting here... Don't know which fork, but it's known out there the RS had a callback on Sid's with skew lowers from the factory. Think of the forces experienced by a fork and how much it flexes - then imagine a heavy rider locking out his fork on a climb and forgetting to unlock on the downhill... it takes one big hit to bend the lowers... Besides the 2 new forks I bought with the above problem from the factory, I know of two other instances there lowers were bent/twisted taking hard hits while being locked out. The shop should have fitted the wheel to a few other bikes after making sure that the dishing is correct, then just told the owner that his lowers are bent and that they can alter the dropouts to temporary make it better at the owners risk. To get the wheel to move 5mm at the fork arch would need less than 1mm removed or added at the dropout tabs... they even could have demonstrated it by using feeler gauges added to the side that's lower... It's a common problem... just google... maybe not so common for hub experts... Any mechanical engineer would tell you that filing the dropout if done right would not create any risks - even if you remove 1mm - to have better matching surfaces between the hub flanges and the dropout tabs give a much stronger joint - I mean then what do you say about the dropout facing tool, or the brake tab facing tool, all removing material where it matters? Insignificant... or about resin tools used to stamp a few thousand sheet metal parts before they wear... or have you seen badly worn dropout tabs? Quite an amount of material that can be removed down there without catastrophic failure... johannrissik 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spark Posted December 28, 2013 Share No that is NOT common practice! Your lbs needs to be taken to task. The front wheel should be dished according to the hub it has. Disc hub = dished differently and it must line up with the centre of the fork crown. To FILE THE FORK DROPOUT is very very very bad form. They owe you a very good explanation and possibly a new sett of fork lowersthey should replace the fork with the filed out dropout and dish the wheels. Not acceptable! ChUkKy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Dob Posted December 28, 2013 Share Has anyone checked that your Quick release springs are the right way around? If they are the wrong way around, the wheel might not sit in the drop outs correctly and seem to be dished incorrectly. If that is the case, it's a very easy fix (though with a very embarrassed look on your face!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hairy Posted December 28, 2013 Share iRide...the principal is still very wrong to remove material from the fork without the owner's permission and of the fork was still under warranty and needed to go into the local agents they would reject any claims even if it was unrelated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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