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Spoke nipples deforms before getting correct tension


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Posted (edited)

Help please all the wheel gurus.

 

I am replacing a spoke on my son's Easton EA50SL wheel, but before I am getting the correct tension on the spoke, the nipple deforms from the effort needed to tighten it using the spoke tool.

 

I am using the DT Swiss Performance spokes with the brass nipples that comes supplied with it. What am I doing wrong, or is the tool just bad?

 

Edit: I am using the Xtools spoke wrench.

Edited by Moridin
Posted

It is unusual for brass nipples to round unless something else is amiss.

1) Check that the nipples are in fact brass.

2) Check that the spoke and nipple gauge is the same. Usually 2mm or 1.8mm

3) Check that the spoke is the correct length.

4) Oil the spoke thread and the rim around the nipple.

Nipples are usually 3.2mm. I Use a 3.4 mm spoke spanner on brass (as it is quicker to work with) and 3.2mm on aluminum or for high tension with brass.

 

Hope this helps

Posted

Xtools stuff is ***, been there done that with cr4ppy spoke keys, get the right size park tool spoke key, around R100 and worth every cent.

Get the exact size for your nipples, there are about 4 different park spoke key sizes.

And put a drop of oil on the nipple, if it's an old tight nipple loosen then tighten to unfreeze the threads before taking it up to tension.

Posted

1) Checked

2) Yes, came with the spokes. Loosely fitted all nipples on spokes to make sure.

3) Yes, checked the manufacturers specification.

4) Will try that.

 

I was using the 3.3mm hole on the spanner. It has 3.2mm, 3.3mm and 3.5mm.

 

Last question. Should I attempt to put some body force on the rim to ease the tension while tightening the nipple?

Posted

Xtools stuff is ***, been there done that with cr4ppy spoke keys, get the right size park tool spoke key, around R100 and worth every cent.

Get the exact size for your nipples, there are about 4 different park spoke key sizes.

And put a drop of oil on the nipple, if it's an old tight nipple loosen then tighten to unfreeze the threads before taking it up to tension.

 

Yes, that is one thing that bugged me. It was not hugging the nipple nicely as a proper spanner should, and I have worked lots on my car to know how a spanner should fit. Which is why I googled the tool reviews for the Xtool spoke spanner and it seems it got good reviews, but it is probably just fanboy reviews as usuall. I cab see that the machining on the spanner is not precise. I will go into the shop(s) around here and hope that they have some proper spoke spanners. I am running out of spare nipples.

Posted (edited)

OK, thank you for all the help. Lubing the nipples helped a lot and it seems I got the spoke to the correct tension. I see now what the problem was. It was not the friction of the nipple on the spoke thread, it was the friction between the nipple and the aluminium rim that was causing the problem. But I am still going to get a better spoke wrench. This one is not confidence inspiring.

Edited by Moridin
Posted (edited)

Don't even think about it - get the Park Tool spoke key!!

 

The Parktool spoke wrenches work like a charm, regret not buying one first time off - I semi rounded a few nipples before I chucked the wannabe spoke "tool" I had. Also virtually every LBS hold a few Parktool spoke wrenches in stock or can order them reasonably quickly, take a spare nipple with you when you go to be sure you get the corrent one, the different sizes are very close.

Edited by Skylark
Posted

For me the "Spokey" wrenches are tops. Look like the DT Swiss ones but a third of the price. Red 3.2 and Yellow 3.4 mm. Last well and have a plastic base so don't scratch rims. Otherwise Park Tool is the bench mark. Got mine from CRC but I haven't seen them in stock lately. Evans Cycles also have them.

Posted (edited)

Thanks guys for all your help. I have not been succesfull in getting the Parktool wrench. I could not get ANY wrench from both Cyclelab and The Specialized Store here in the Helderberg area. They recon people don't do that type of stuff anymore on their bikes. I got a Topeak from Velolife which is not too bad, much better than that other thing I had.

 

I was able to replace all the spokes on the wheel and got it very close to true. I gave it in at William's this morning for final truing as I don't have a proper truing jig. I did the tensions by comparing the resonance frequency of the spokes when plucking them.

Edited by Moridin
Posted

 

I was able to replace all the spokes on the wheel and got it very close to true. I gave it in at William's this morning for final truing as I don't have a proper truing jig. I did the tensions by comparing the resonance frequency of the spokes when plucking them.

Playing the wheel Lyre :clap: , you get quite good at it after a while. It's easy to make your own truing jig, get Roger Musson's book "Professional guide to wheel building", he's got a plan in it, and it's a good book to have if you are going to do your own wheels

http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

Posted

Cyclelab and The Specialized Store here in the Helderberg area. They recon people don't do that type of stuff anymore on their bikes.

 

I assume they had their wheel size vs rider height signs up as well?

Posted

Playing the wheel Lyre :clap: , you get quite good at it after a while. It's easy to make your own truing jig, get Roger Musson's book "Professional guide to wheel building", he's got a plan in it, and it's a good book to have if you are going to do your own wheels

http://www.wheelpro....ilding/book.php

 

Thx, will get it. I guess I am gonna be doing a lot off my own stuff in future. Also, my son is now part of the Parel Vallei cycling team, and the kids can be rough on the bikes. Maintenance expenses end up to quite a lot of money in the long run.

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