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Posted

First test the existing clearcoat in an invisible spot to see if it is compatible with the proposed new paint.

 

If it is - scuff the existing clear coat using a green 3m scrubby, clean with pre-paint degreaser and and recoat with new.

 

Sounds simple - easy to make a mistake - maybe consider getting a pro to do it - chat to Bogusone on the hub - he does nice work, and he is in CT.

Posted

Also degrease before scuffing, then degrease again after scuffing. The pre-degrease ensures you don't work oil/grease into the scuffs and scratches you're creating.

 

I kind of assumed he knew it had to be ultra clean and grease before you start... :)

 

It's also probably a good idea to make sure the bike really has paintwork with a clearcoat/basecoat system rather than single coated (you can clear over the single coat without issues normally) but it's often much thinner than base/clear - so scuffing is a mission without cutting through.

 

The scuffing is fairly high risk on a bike - VERY easy to cut through the existing clear/paint on the sharper corners - even with a scrubby, paint cuts fairly quickly.

Posted

^^ Yes, be careful about the corners and high spots. It is very easy to get the onion effect when the bike has multiple layers of clear.

 

I redid me Campy Record levers a while back after the bike fell over. Came out really nice, but if you look closely you can see that onion effect. Only remedy is sometimes the sand it down, but I was worried about also sanding down the graphic/text that is between 2 clear layers. I used 2K Clear.

Posted

Slightly off-topic, but has anybody tried VPS or similar as an added protection layer?

 

I use it on:

 

Track car

Garmin screens

 

Works fine to protect against light scratches/chips - does not look as good as original paintwork/glass

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