BenGraham Posted April 15, 2014 Share Okay so I decided awhile back to build a bike. And I've been kind of anal about it such that I won't let anyone physically help me since I'm doing this for the learning experience. I installed the headset cups myself with a bench vise for instance which was bloody stressful but worked perfectly. I hadn't intended to lace my own wheels as I figured shimano or mavic could do a better job but installing the headset myself has made me cocky. I now have this idea that maybe all this stuff I read about it being tricky is a load of bs if you have basic mechanical skills, a bit of patience and the internet. As I said the main reason I'm building is to learn and I've read a great deal about wheel building and I'm kind of keen to try but I am at a bit of a loss as to where to get parts. Specifically I'm looking for 2.0 1.8 double butted spokes. So far a all I've found are straight 2.0 spokes and while I have heard they're easier to build with I also read they're heavier and potentially put more stress on the rim so I'm keen to see if I can get double butted and at what cost. I've seen some very exotic things suggested like lighter non drive side spokes and etc but I think I'm going to keep things simple and stick with one type of spoke. As far as I can tell nipples are nipples and there's not much choice in it apart from brass vs alu or am I wrong. Incase you're dying to know I'm building a cotic soul 26er steel hard tail. Yes it's old school but I think it's going to be amazing. And yes I'm starting to get annoyed with the confused exp<b></b>ressions I get when I request parts or prices at bike shops for my build. It's a choice I've made so stop judging me. I know it's not cheaper now take my money. Anyone else find this on a build? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaper Posted April 15, 2014 Share Worth a read with regard to wheel building http://sheldonbrown....wheelbuild.html Also there are many spoke calculators online that will help you get the right spoke length http://www.prowheelb...ngthcalculator/ Be worth doing a search of the forums on wheel building https://community.bikehub.co.za/topic/132151-diy-wheel-building/page__hl__wheel+build Edited April 15, 2014 by shaper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G00SE Posted April 15, 2014 Share Building up your own bike is the only way! Good luck with the build... Start a build thread with pics please (if you haven't already that is) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirtbreath Posted April 15, 2014 Share intltrade.co.za will have everything you need to build your own wheels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted April 15, 2014 Share Getting your spoke lengths right is a major part of a successful build. You will most likely need four different lengths - front brake side and right side, rear brake side and drive side. Although they may only differ by 1 or 2 mm it is significant. Get your rims and hubs first and measure them before buying the spokes. Just be cautious about the online calculators. Some of them make allowance for the spoke stretching under tension (DT Swiss) while others don't (spokecalc) and you will need to adjust the result yourself. You are right to stick with double butted spokes. Don't build with straight gauge - ever! If you don't come right with spokes give me a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenGraham Posted April 15, 2014 Share Thanks guys. This is all very helpful. Where does one place their bike build thread pray tell? Since it's late I think I'll guess for now but it would be good to know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javadude Posted April 15, 2014 Share Getting your spoke lengths right is a major part of a successful build. You will most likely need four different lengths - front brake side and right side, rear brake side and drive side. Although they may only differ by 1 or 2 mm it is significant. Get your rims and hubs first and measure them before buying the spokes. Just be cautious about the online calculators. Some of them make allowance for the spoke stretching under tension (DT Swiss) while others don't (spokecalc) and you will need to adjust the result yourself. You are right to stick with double butted spokes. Don't build with straight gauge - ever! If you don't come right with spokes give me a call. Why not straight gauge spokes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenGraham Posted April 15, 2014 Share Build thread below:http://www.thehubsa....tic-soul-build/ Edited April 15, 2014 by BenGraham Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BenGraham Posted April 15, 2014 Share Why not straight gauge spokes? Okay this is simply what I've read but the gist of it is that because the middle of the spoke can flex and absorb some of the force the ends ie the bend and the thread sides take less strain and thus fatigue less quickly leading to longer spoke life. Also this same effect puts greater forces on the rim upon impact. At least thats how I understand it. That said I am still trying to get a price estimate together so I may still go the straight gauge route anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted April 16, 2014 Share The short answer is that although straight gauge spokes are stronger than DB in a "pull till they brake test" they are far less durable in that spokes usually fail through fatigue at the bend or nipple area. A properly fitted stress relieved DB spoke will outlast a straight gauge spoke by far. To the extent that I give lifetime cover on spoke breakage on any wheel I build (with DB). That is should the spoke break before the hub, rim, or you or I die - I will replace any broken spoke without cost. DB spokes tend to "wind up" when you build the wheel and as machines building wheels can't cope with this - and some entry level wheelbuilders as well - straight gauge spokes will perpetuate even though the wheels will be inferior. Just looking at my costings straight gauge spokes range from R5 to R10 while DB R13 to R19 each depending on thickness and supplier. Edited April 16, 2014 by David Marshall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deanbean Posted April 16, 2014 Share Get Roger Musson's book, it's an invaluable resource, and he also gives plans to build your own wheel truing stand.http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/cover6.jpghttp://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php Brighter-Lights 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
javadude Posted April 16, 2014 Share The short answer is that although straight gauge spokes are stronger than DB in a "pull till they brake test" they are far less durable in that spokes usually fail through fatigue at the bend or nipple area. A properly fitted stress relieved DB spoke will outlast a straight gauge spoke by far. To the extent that I give lifetime cover on spoke breakage on any wheel I build (with DB). That is should the spoke break before the hub, rim, or you or I die - I will replace any broken spoke without cost. DB spokes tend to "wind up" when you build the wheel and as machines building wheels can't cope with this - and some entry level wheelbuilders as well - straight gauge spokes will perpetuate even though the wheels will be inferior. Just looking at my costings straight gauge spokes range from R5 to R10 while DB R13 to R19 each depending on thickness and supplier. Yip, i have read that on more than one occasion from more than one source(including in the book that deanbean references above). I'm still puzzled though that my 15 year old wheels with straight guage dt swiss spokes are still going strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Marshall Posted April 16, 2014 Share Yip, i have read that on more than one occasion from more than one source(including in the book that deanbean references above). I'm still puzzled though that my 15 year old wheels with straight guage dt swiss spokes are still going strong. You don't do enough mileage! No, seriously I'll guess they are 36 spoke three cross and you are no heavyweight. Spoke tension also plays a big part in reducing fatigue as does the hub design so component choice and building skill will also count. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pipsqueak Posted August 31, 2015 Share Sort of a hijack, but probably the right forum... I'm battling to find bits and bobs for wheel builds. I'm currently needing nipple washers, and weird length spokes are also tough to get. I'm in Dbn, but online would be best. Not even Chainreaction has washers. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
droo Posted August 31, 2015 Share Sort of a hijack, but probably the right forum... I'm battling to find bits and bobs for wheel builds. I'm currently needing nipple washers, and weird length spokes are also tough to get. I'm in Dbn, but online would be best. Not even Chainreaction has washers. Any ideas? Speak to Doug at DDP Wheel Tech in JHB, he's got everything you need and will send to your LBS. Pipsqueak 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterF Posted August 31, 2015 Share Get Roger Musson's book, it's an invaluable resource, and he also gives plans to build your own wheel truing stand.http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/cover6.jpghttp://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php+ 1 on this. Very cheap. I bought this book and built my own truing stand and various other tools. Have built 2 wheels already and although not perfect will get better with practice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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