Beast Tech Posted May 9, 2014 Posted May 9, 2014 I seemed to have buckled my front wheel so its time for a new one... I kind of know how to build a wheel so want to learn on it as I think its a skill I want to learn myself, so I want to buy all parts individually, this is where the tricky part comes in, buying the right things.... Important points...6 Bolt disc breaks26 inch wheel Budget: R1000 And the bike is used for Freeride/jumping so needs to be very strong, weight is not too important... Spoke length?Spoke make?Wheel makes? Thanks
David Marshall Posted May 9, 2014 Posted May 9, 2014 Your budget is a bit tight. Decent spokes and nipples alone will set you back about R350. You may get a good deal on a 26" rim but the hub is another story. Spoke length depends on what rim and hub you choose and any of the main suppliers' double butted spokes will do. If you go for an online deal make sure that you can get hubs and rims with the same number of holes - preferably 36 holes for jumping. Spoke101 1
Matchstix Posted May 10, 2014 Posted May 10, 2014 Google spoke length calculator there is a couple on the Web, also check out sheldon browns website
DeFconOK Posted May 10, 2014 Posted May 10, 2014 Use longer 16mm brass nipples, DT straight gauge spokes, they'll be cheapest good quality to buy, the nipple will be a bit more than the shorter but will make a stronger wheel and brass means the wheels will be easy to maintain Use http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator/ Works well as you can put in any rim or hub even if it's not listed.
David Marshall Posted May 10, 2014 Posted May 10, 2014 Use longer 16mm brass nipples, DT straight gauge spokes, they'll be cheapest good quality to buy, the nipple will be a bit more than the shorter but will make a stronger wheel and brass means the wheels will be easy to maintain Use http://www.prowheelb...ngthcalculator/ Works well as you can put in any rim or hub even if it's not listed. Disagree with 16mm nipple building a stronger wheel. The threaded portion is the same length as that in a 12mm nipple (9mm - 10mm). What it does do is allow you to cover up incorrect spoke lengths - leaving you with a weaker wheel. The argument of double butted vs. straight guage spokes has been well documented. Double butted gives a more durable wheel. Period. For downhill you want a durable wheel.
Beast Tech Posted May 12, 2014 Author Posted May 12, 2014 Thank you for all the replies... So overshooting budget a bit but this is what I am going for... Shimano XT Front hub 32hMavic XM319 32h RIMDT Swiss revolution DB spokes Think it should do the job for now?
DeFconOK Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 (edited) Disagree with 16mm nipple building a stronger wheel. The threaded portion is the same length as that in a 12mm nipple (9mm - 10mm). What it does do is allow you to cover up incorrect spoke lengths - leaving you with a weaker wheel. The argument of double butted vs. straight guage spokes has been well documented. Double butted gives a more durable wheel. Period. For downhill you want a durable wheel. If you use a longer nipple with the correct lenght spokes it essentialy shortens the spoke??? shorter spoke stronger wheel. Straight gauge is like R5 less a spoke at retail Edited May 23, 2014 by DeFconOK
DeFconOK Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 Thank you for all the replies... So overshooting budget a bit but this is what I am going for... Shimano XT Front hub 32hMavic XM319 32h RIMDT Swiss revolution DB spokes Think it should do the job for now? All good stuff so go for it
DeFconOK Posted May 23, 2014 Posted May 23, 2014 Thank you for all the replies... So overshooting budget a bit but this is what I am going for... Shimano XT Front hub 32hMavic XM319 32h RIMDT Swiss revolution DB spokes Think it should do the job for now? All good stuff so go for it
David Marshall Posted May 25, 2014 Posted May 25, 2014 If you use a longer nipple with the correct lenght spokes it essentialy shortens the spoke??? shorter spoke stronger wheel. Straight gauge is like R5 less a spoke at retail The nipple length will not change anything on the wheel build. The threaded section of the nipple starts at the slot in the nipple head and goes down for 10mm. That is on a 12 mm nipple you will have 2mm blank space before the thread starts. On a 16mm nipple you will have 6mm blank before the spoke engages the thread. When you calculate the spoke length you want the spoke end to finish up level with the slot. This gives you all the spoke thread covered by the nipple thread. Anything else, like the spoke protruding through the nipple or not comming up to the slot will give a weaker wheel. As to the price difference between straight guage and double butted spokes it is still a lot less than a rebuild later. The spoke warrantee on a double butted wheel I build lasts for the life of the hub or rim. The warantee on a straignt guage spoked wheel ends when you leave my workshop. Spoke101 1
droo Posted May 26, 2014 Posted May 26, 2014 If you use a longer nipple with the correct lenght spokes it essentialy shortens the spoke??? shorter spoke stronger wheel. Straight gauge is like R5 less a spoke at retail Save R150 on your build, rebuild again in 6 months. Buy cheap, buy twice.
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