Guest Smimby Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Does anyone have one your want to sell? Or know where I can buy one ? No online shop seem to have any in stock
Daredevil Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Chainreactioncycles sell those , I dont know if the have it in stock thou..
fanievb Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Does anyone have one your want to sell? Or know where I can buy one ? No online shop seem to have any in stock http://www.capemulti.co.za/CATEGORIES/tabid/5071/CategoryID/169/List/0/Level/a/ProductID/1362/Default.aspx?SortField=ProductName%2CProductName http://www.rushsportscycling.com/Store/Buy/Park-Tool/TM_1-Spoke-Tension-Meter-.aspx
Guest Smimby Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 http://www.capemulti...ame,ProductName http://www.rushsport...ion-Meter-.aspx Thanks Forgot about Rush....cape multil does not have stock :-(
Guest Smimby Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Thanks Forgot about Rush....cape multil does not have stock :-(Both out of stock
fanievb Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Cape Multi BoB account shows they have stock http://www.bidorbuy.co.za/item/140479073/Park_Tool_TM_1_Spoke_Tension_Meter.html good luck with your hunt
Thomo Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Cape Multi BoB account shows they have stock http://www.bidorbuy....sion_Meter.html good luck with your hunt Cape Multi BoB means nothing.!I don't know how the system is updated but it's often inaccurate.
Guest Smimby Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 What Thomo said..... just called them and they need to check with the supplier...thus they dont have their own wharehouse. Just a middleman
Johan Bornman Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 (edited) I'll save you some money and workshop clutter: you don't need a tensiometer.A tensiometer is of set someone who builds many of the same wheels and for some reason wants to build some consistency into the tension across the set. Factories come to mind. The average mechanic building different wheels all the time doesn't need one. How will you determine what tension you want to work to? Very few rim manufacturers publish maximum tension and even then they don't map tension against spoke quantity. Further,if tension is specified, the range is normally so large that the bottom end creates an under tensioned wheel and the top end stripped nipples. Best is to develop a feel and ear for properly tensioned spokes. Numbers without context are just numbers. Edited June 25, 2014 by Johan Bornman
Guest Smimby Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 How would I know that I am close to the tension Johan? Or do I just go as tight as possible on the drive side?
David Marshall Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 Don't overtighten the spokes! You will collapse the rim LONG before you break a spoke. When you think you are near the right tension (evenly tension, true and pluck the spokes as you work), you lean your weight onto the rim with the hub resting on a block of wood on the floor. This allows any spokes with wind up to relax - you will hear the nipples spring around as your weight relaxes the spokes. Turn it over and do the same on the other side. At this stage you can feel the wheel start to give if your tension is right. It will feel weaker - ie more like it wants to fold - when the drive side spokes are uppermost. Try it using a similar finished wheel without the tire first to get the feel. Remember that a 26" wheel will be much stiffer than a 29" or road wheel at the same spoke tension.
Johan Bornman Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 (edited) Tension goes up as spoke count goes down. The best way to start off would be to find similar built wheel of the same size and same spoke count. Pluck the left and right spokes and listen to the tone. Match the tone approximately on the new wheel. Don't choose a crappy wheel, take one you trust. Err on the high side, you can recover from overtensioned wheel but an undertensioned wheel is a comeback. Tight as possible is too subjective and variable with spoke gauge, nipple material and spoke count. Build one and get an opinion, perhaps even a "measured" opinion. Even if you have a gauge how do you know what figures to aim for? Edited June 25, 2014 by Johan Bornman
eddy Posted June 25, 2014 Posted June 25, 2014 (edited) edit : posted in wrong topic. Edited June 25, 2014 by eddy
Guest Smimby Posted June 26, 2014 Posted June 26, 2014 Tension goes up as spoke count goes down. The best way to start off would be to find similar built wheel of the same size and same spoke count. Pluck the left and right spokes and listen to the tone. Match the tone approximately on the new wheel. Don't choose a crappy wheel, take one you trust. Err on the high side, you can recover from overtensioned wheel but an undertensioned wheel is a comeback. Tight as possible is too subjective and variable with spoke gauge, nipple material and spoke count. Build one and get an opinion, perhaps even a "measured" opinion. Even if you have a gauge how do you know what figures to aim for? Johan according to the Notubes site the tention should be max 95kg on Crest rims. Hence I wanted a spoke tension Meter to see when I am there. From then on I can do them all the same pitch.
Johan Bornman Posted June 26, 2014 Posted June 26, 2014 (edited) This illustrates my point nicely.NoTubes says 95kg. It should be in Newtons, but nevemind that for now. Did they indicate for what spoke count?For what size Crest?A 28-spoke wheel with a 1000N max tension is weak, particularly on a 29" wheel. Even a 32 spoked one would be weak.If you want, record a plucked spoke and send me a sound file. I'll listen and comment. A tension meter is not a substitute for uncertain skills and a skilled builder doesn't need a meter. What is wrong with the edit screen on this forum? It is impossible to type and my reply to this topic is therefore stunted. Edited June 26, 2014 by Johan Bornman
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