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Posted

Ah, totally forgot to mention that. I've had to replace a spoke on the rear tire about 1.5 months ago. If I remember correct they also made a reference to the hub as opposed to the rim being bent/dented somewhere.

 

 

 

I smell a rat! Get the half of you based in JHB to bring the wheel to me and I will assess it for you.

Posted

Hi again all,

 

I'm going to see if I can get the hub opened up and see whether there is indeed grease accumulated on one side.

 

I smell a rat! Get the half of you based in JHB to bring the wheel to me and I will assess it for you.

 

Glenferness? Heck thats quite a drive, but I appreciate you mentioning it! :thumbup:

 

Many aftermarket hubs today come with adapters so that they can be changed from old style QR skewer to the newer style 12mm QR and 135mm or 142mm widths. You may also have a choice of centre-lock or bolt-on disc mountng with some brands. Your bike shop will be able to assist.

 

Before committing to a new hub, remove the tyre and spin the tyreless rim up your bike (i.e. without a tyre). If it still jumps or wobbles then the hub or wheel truing job is suspect. If smooth then the problem is in the tyre/tube/sealant combo.

 

Stuff like this is things I don't know yet- what is a QR and what does it have to do with the hub and what does the sizing relate to.

 

Would someone please be so kind as to explain at which parts of the hub I have to look at to determine what type, size and quality hub I have?

Posted

Hi again all,

 

I'm going to see if I can get the hub opened up and see whether there is indeed grease accumulated on one side.

 

 

 

Glenferness? Heck thats quite a drive, but I appreciate you mentioning it! :thumbup:

 

 

 

Stuff like this is things I don't know yet- what is a QR and what does it have to do with the hub and what does the sizing relate to.

 

Would someone please be so kind as to explain at which parts of the hub I have to look at to determine what type, size and quality hub I have?

 

http://ravx.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/tempo_qr_skewers_lg.jpg

Posted

 

 

Would someone please be so kind as to explain at which parts of the hub I have to look at to determine what type, size and quality hub I have?

Your question is logical but not practical. I am assuming you would want to replace the hub while using the same spokes and rim. You would then need to get the exact same hub as a replacement. To do this you need to know what model it is (find the serial number/name - or get the specs from your bike manufacturer or from the hub manufacturer).

 

To use another model of hub it would have to match the following measurements exactly.

 

1) Over lock nut dimension (OLD). This is the length of the hub from the outer surface of left lock nut to outer surface of right lock nut. So in the pictures above it is the length of the hub excluding the part of the axle that goes into the frame.

2) You then need to mark the exact center of the hub (1/2 the OLD) and measure from this mark to the center of both the left flange and the right flange. Because the gears fit on the right side the distance from the left to center is larger than the distance from right to center.

3) You need to now measure the diameter of each flange from the center of two opposite spoke holes. Sometimes the flanges are the same size but often they are not.

4) You need to measure the spoke hole diameter.

5) You need to know the number of spoke holes on each flange.

 

This is why I say it is not practical. You can't get these measurements accurately enough with the hub in the wheel and secondly, you can't easily find this info on other hubs to compare the specifications. In practice you could replace the hub with any hub with the same OLD if you replace the spokes as well. This is expensive as good spokes are R15+ each and a wheel build is anything from R150 (not me) to R300 (me!).

 

To get back to your original posting, you need to get a second opinion on the problem. What is bent on the hub and is the damage repairable? As others have said it could be tire or rim causing the hop. My suspicion is the replacement spoke is short and the radial truing is out. But then I am just a cynical old man.

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