Tubeless virgin

[worriesnot]

I've been on and off the MTB for the last 15 years but never took the tubeless plunge.

From the amount of chirps I get (and also lately the amount of tubes replaced) it's probably time to give it a go but I'm not all that clued up on it. I have a few questions and hope you guys can shed some light...

 

Ride: Giant Anthem X1 (2014).

Rims: Giant P-XC2 - not going to change these in the foreseeable future. I know they are heavy, but so am I.

Current tires: Schwalbe Racing Ralph Performance, 29x2.25, folding - NON tubeless ready. Still don't get how come they stuck non TL ready tires on this bike but anyway...

Questions:

• Which tyres? I like the Schwalbes that's on there now so should I go for the TL version or something else/better/are they crap?
• Snakeskin - what does it mean?  
• Is there a rider weight limit for tubeless? 
• Seen some nasty pics of solidified sealant recently on thehub. How often do you need to change it? With tubes you pretty much work on it when you get a puncture but seems as though TL requires more maintenance (?)
• Should I really try this conversion myself with a kit or Dr. Youtube?

Reeeaaaaally appreciate some guidance here...

 

 

[Vangar]

I've been on and off the MTB for the last 15 years but never took the tubeless plunge.

From the amount of chirps I get (and also lately the amount of tubes replaced) it's probably time to give it a go but I'm not all that clued up on it. I have a few questions and hope you guys can shed some light...

 

Ride: Giant Anthem X1 (2014).

Rims: Giant P-XC2 - not going to change these in the foreseeable future. I know they are heavy, but so am I.

Current tires: Schwalbe Racing Ralph Performance, 29x2.25, folding - NON tubeless ready. Still don't get how come they stuck non TL ready tires on this bike but anyway...

Questions:

• Which tyres? I like the Schwalbes that's on there now so should I go for the TL version or something else/better/are they crap?
• Snakeskin - what does it mean?  
• Is there a rider weight limit for tubeless? 
• Seen some nasty pics of solidified sealant recently on thehub. How often do you need to change it? With tubes you pretty much work on it when you get a puncture but seems as though TL requires more maintenance (?)
• Should I really try this conversion myself with a kit or Dr. Youtube?

Reeeaaaaally appreciate some guidance here...

 

Annnnnnd I'll take a crack:

 

1.) I have a set of non tubeless RR Evo's running on a 26er, working fine, beeen through some rocks no slashes, you can try them but you're mileage may vary ( har har sounds punny)

2.) Reinforced and thicker sidewall on the tyre to prevent cuts and give it strength. Heavy but worth it.

3.) You'll propably snap the bike like a twig before rider weight becomes and issue on tubeless, you just adjust pressure a bit.

4.) Sealant should be checked every 2 - 3 months and swapped out if needed. I've had good luck with Joe's, 6 months now and still fine.

5.) Just do it, you have literally R500 or so to lose, the price of sealant and some valves. And it really is worth it. Here is the MTBr thread on your wheelset, but the guys say normal rim tape and sealant works well. http://forums.mtbr.com/giant/giant-p-xc-s-xc-wheelset-thread-675185.html

[worriesnot]

Annnnnnd I'll take a crack:

 

1.) I have a set of non tubeless RR Evo's running on a 26er, working fine, beeen through some rocks no slashes, you can try them but you're mileage may vary ( har har sounds punny)

2.) Reinforced and thicker sidewall on the tyre to prevent cuts and give it strength. Heavy but worth it.

3.) You'll propably snap the bike like a twig before rider weight becomes and issue on tubeless, you just adjust pressure a bit.

4.) Sealant should be checked every 2 - 3 months and swapped out if needed. I've had good luck with Joe's, 6 months now and still fine.

5.) Just do it, you have literally R500 or so to lose, the price of sealant and some valves. And it really is worth it. Here is the MTBr thread on your wheelset, but the guys say normal rim tape and sealant works well. http://forums.mtbr.com/giant/giant-p-xc-s-xc-wheelset-thread-675185.html

shot thanks

riding an Anthem you probably right about "snapping it like a twig" 

 

You mention Joe's; have you tried other sealants? Does some work better than others?

How do you know it needs to be replaced? 

[Vangar]

shot thanks

riding an Anthem you probably right about "snapping it like a twig" 

 

You mention Joe's; have you tried other sealants? Does some work better than others?

How do you know it needs to be replaced? 

 

Rofl, good point. Yup, bike shop used Stans in my new bike, 3 months and still fine. Joe's I used on 2 bikes, the Eco version and the white one. Both work well. Honestly I don't think there is too much in the big sealant ones, they are all good. Maybe some cheapies won't work as well. For Stans it makes the balls, but you can generally see if it thickens or is lower than it needs to be to seal.

[camelman]

With those Giant Hoops(non tubeless specific), get yourself a tire with a strong sidewall.  Maxxis or Geax or most anything UST specific.  The Geax does a particular easy conversion because it fits quite tight on the rim and you don't have to "build up" the rim tape to make the tire seat easily and securely.

 

Sealant wise there is no fixed interval.  It depends on the heat you ride in, tire compound and such, but every 3 months should be sufficient for a checkup.

 

Tires to avoid if you want an easy and reliable conversion:

• Non-snakeskin Schwalbe although even the snakeskin struggles straight out the box.  I destroyed 3 RR's on my Giant, two on tar and one off road.  The non snakeskin is not a particularly good tire for a heavy guy to run low pressures (I am 95kg)
• Specialized or S-Works tires

I had the same hoops on my XTC and had many reliable kilometers with the Maxxis and Geax tires.

[worriesnot]

• Non-snakeskin Schwalbe although even the snakeskin struggles straight out the box.  I destroyed 3 RR's on my Giant, two on tar and one off road.  The non snakeskin is not a particularly good tire for a heavy guy to run low pressures (I am 95kg)
• Specialized or S-Works tires

I had the same hoops on my XTC and had many reliable kilometers with the Maxxis and Geax tires.

 

ja, even non TL RR is not good on low pressure, well, in my opinion that is.

 

So does Maxxis and Geax have stronger side walls than Schwalbe snakeskins?

I've always been riding Schwalbe (apart from Conti Town&Country for road on my 26") and found them very good for tubed use. Are they considered bad for TL, even snakeskin?

[Vangar]

ja, even non TL RR is not good on low pressure, well, in my opinion that is.

 

So does Maxxis and Geax have stronger side walls than Schwalbe snakeskins?

I've always been riding Schwalbe (apart from Conti Town&Country for road on my 26") and found them very good for tubed use. Are they considered bad for TL, even snakeskin?

 

Geax are the tanks of tyres, pretty sure bullets would bounce of the sidewalls. Maxiss is a very very very good replacement for the Schwalbes, you'll find loads of guys running Ardent Front and Crossmark/Ikon rear, because they just work and grip and last. Loads of guys use Racing Ralphs, Rocket Ron, Nobby Nic TL versions as well, good tyres but bang for buck wise not as good as Maxxis (DISCLAIMER: Perhaps that's anecdotal but Schwalbe's tend to wear quicker)

[camelman]

ja, even non TL RR is not good on low pressure, well, in my opinion that is.

 

So does Maxxis and Geax have stronger side walls than Schwalbe snakeskins?

I've always been riding Schwalbe (apart from Conti Town&Country for road on my 26") and found them very good for tubed use. Are they considered bad for TL, even snakeskin?

Never ever had Conti's on my MTB's. They are for my Road bike and that is where it stays. Like Vangar said, They are tanks.  Not super light, but they are good and not crazy heavy.  I did an Epic, Tankwa Trek GR 300 and a month of Epic training on a old Geax Saguaro in the back and it still had life in it afterwards.  My dry weather combo was a Saguaro in Front and an AKA in the back.  The AKA slips and slides at times, but you always know how much.

 

The Maxxis is also good and strong and is a good in betweener. In drier weather you could opt for a Ardent(f)/Icon(b) combo.

 

My opinion as a heavy rider is that you can run a lower pressure (1.5-1.7bar) with a stronger sidewall without the feeling of the tire "folding under" you when you corner.  If you are going to run high pressure (1.8 and up) you can use almost any tire.  The problem with the P-XC2's is that the rim is also very narrow (19mm Internal I think)as well and that amplifies that feeling of the tire "folding under" you when cornering.  I have subsequently replaced those PX-C2's with a set of Arch-Ex's and the wider rim also makes a huge difference(other than the wheels being lighter.

 

But seeing that you staying with original wheels, opt for the Maxxis UST or even the Geax TNT for a more bulletproof setup.

[arendoog]

All good advice .I am also a heavy rider and had an anthem .No problems there ? I have used all the suggested tyre combo,s  mentioned exept spez tyres .I would put a Geax saguaro rear and a conti protection X-king in front .You don,t want a heavy front tyre like a maxxis or Geax in front on a heavy rim

[worriesnot]

All good advice .I am also a heavy rider and had an anthem .No problems there ? I have used all the suggested tyre combo,s  mentioned exept spez tyres .I would put a Geax saguaro rear and a conti protection X-king in front .You don,t want a heavy front tyre like a maxxis or Geax in front on a heavy rim

 

Seriously kidding about the Anthem by the way - awesome ride.

My OCD won't allow me to have two different branded tyres on a bike 

Conti is 125g lighter than Geax so not that big a difference.

Overall it looks like going TL means extra weight on the wheels so gots to deal with that in any case.

 

Thanks for the advice chaps - much appreciated!

 

NOW: where to buy those Geax Saguaros...? See evobikes.co.za have them at a good price...

[Vangar]

Evobikes have really good prices on Geax tyres. If you want to try the Gato they have on hell of a good deal:

 

R995 for two tryes, sealant and valves.

 

http://www.evobikes.co.za/2-x-gato-29-x-2-2-tnt-tubeless-tyres-2-x-frm-removable-inner-valve-cores-stans-sealant-950ml.html

[worriesnot]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So went for first ride out on the Saguaro tyres - they are now branded Vittoria by the way, with a tiny GEAX impression stamped in the rubber on the sidewall.

Really really impressed...

Currently running 2bar front and back but going to still experiment with that.

Could be my imagination but it feels way more grippy and stable than the Schwalbe on hardpack.

Not great in the mud as expected, but manageable. 

Thanks for the help guys!

[camelman]

Great news.  I am 95kg and was running my Saguaro's at about 1.5.  That sidewall is stronger than the Schwalbes, so you can run it lower pressures with a bit more confidence.  But play around with it.

 

My usual pressure is about 1.3-1.4 front and about 1.5-1.6 back.  That is with a high volume 29x 2.25 tire.

[SAGecko]

 

My OCD won't allow me to have two different branded tyres on a bike 

 

 

Hahahahaha!!!! Same here boet    . I even find it pretty tough to mix my Maxxis. I can't bring myself to live with an Ardent / Crossmark combo.....

 

I know, right?     

[worriesnot]

Hahahahaha!!!! Same here boet    . I even find it pretty tough to mix my Maxxis. I can't bring myself to live with an Ardent / Crossmark combo.....

 

I know, right?     

lol!

many years ago I went riding with a guy that lined up his valves whenever he got a chance - he would roll the bike forward until his front wheel valve was at 12 and then pick up the rear and rotate the rear to get the valve at 12 - that was the worst case of OCD I have ever come across... (just happened to be cycling related and MTB on top of it all). After a while I was convinced he was making up reasons to stop so that he could satisfy his filthy 12 o'clock obsession. 

Only went for one more ride with him.

[SAGecko]

There are many things that are quite bothersome to an Obsessive Compulsive on a bike.

 

My particular brand of lunacy requires that my hands are clean or, at the very least, that my fingers don't get sticky from a Gu sachet. If they do (and they always do.... ) then I have to stop my bike and clean them off with water from my CamelBak.

 

My other little OCD loony-tunes folly is my glasses..... I get quite fidgety if I drip sweat from my forehead onto the inside of the lens......   . I have to stop the ride and clean them to a brilliant spotlessness with a dry facecloth I keep in my pocket      .

 

Ja, pretty damn nutty, I know.

 

But the upside is I am getting quite good at chasing down and catching my riding buddies when they leave me behind to take care of my foibles.