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Considering a homemade build


Burner

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Posted

Yes Shebeen, you can also use a cnc to machine the moulds. I might do that if I go carbon as I already have a 4 axis cnc mill, but I'm also busy building a large 3D printer

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Posted

This is interesting  :D

 

 

"Unfortunately we no longer have a South African distributor. However, we do ship direct. I have attached a copy of our pricelist (Sterling) along with a copy of our alloys document. This should hopefully provide you with enough information to get you started.

Let me know if there is anything else I can do.

 

Best regards,

 

Tom Cleverly

Project Engineer

Reynolds Technology Ltd

tc@rtl.cc"

 

Let me know if you want the attachments

Posted

This is interesting  :D

 

 

"Unfortunately we no longer have a South African distributor. However, we do ship direct. I have attached a copy of our pricelist (Sterling) along with a copy of our alloys document. This should hopefully provide you with enough information to get you started.

Let me know if there is anything else I can do.

 

Best regards,

 

Tom Cleverly

Project Engineer

Reynolds Technology Ltd

tc@rtl.cc"

 

Let me know if you want the attachments

Nice going there SimpleDom! Ofcourse I want those attachments :drool:

Posted

Over the weekend I Paradyskloof trails for the first time. I must say they are well thought out. 

 

Back to the bike. Looking at top tube length and seat tube angle and seat tube location. I normally ride 19-20inch. I only ride with short 50mm stems, so I'd like a long top tube. A quick search on google shows Enduro bikes in 19-20inch frames are about 680mm. Adding to this the location of the seatpost is important for a good balance. So...the question is do I start the seatpost from the bb up quite steep? Or, do I shift it ahead or behind and fit it steeply up from there. This will also depend on the rear suspension design that will probably affect these

Posted

Over the weekend I Paradyskloof trails for the first time. I must say they are well thought out. 

 

Back to the bike. Looking at top tube length and seat tube angle and seat tube location. I normally ride 19-20inch. I only ride with short 50mm stems, so I'd like a long top tube. A quick search on google shows Enduro bikes in 19-20inch frames are about 680mm. Adding to this the location of the seatpost is important for a good balance. So...the question is do I start the seatpost from the bb up quite steep? Or, do I shift it ahead or behind and fit it steeply up from there. This will also depend on the rear suspension design that will probably affect these

http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/stories/2015/01/15/max_4a_245171.jpg?1421374433

Your bb's position will determine your 'reach' in relation to the ETT (effective toptube)

The closer your ETT and reach are to each other in measurement the more perpendicular your seat tube will be to the ground.

 

Remember.

You could have a slack seat tube and long toptube and STILL feel cramped up if your bb is slung too far forward. The BB's postion essentially determines the riders overall horizontal position on the bike. 

 

I think a better starting point is to consider a comfortable wheelbase.

Once you've established what distance you're comfortable with between the axles.

You have a better idea of the dimension parametres you can work with.

 

Then decide on a horizontal bb position to try and find your comprimise between chainstay length and your ETT and reach

Posted

http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/stories/2015/01/15/max_4a_245171.jpg?1421374433

Your bb's position will determine your 'reach' in relation to the ETT (effective toptube)

The closer your ETT and reach are to each other in measurement the more perpendicular your seat tube will be to the ground.

 

Remember.

You could have a slack seat tube and long toptube and STILL feel cramped up if your bb is slung too far forward. The BB's postion essentially determines the riders overall horizontal position on the bike. 

 

I think a better starting point is to consider a comfortable wheelbase.

Once you've established what distance you're comfortable with between the axles.

You have a better idea of the dimension parametres you can work with.

 

Then decide on a horizontal bb position to try and find your comprimise between chainstay length and your ETT and reach

True true... I also want a real balanced feel. The bike should be able to climb ok, but must descend like a dh bike. I know you cant have the best of both worlds but there must be a sweet spot. I like the idea you had earlier of some adjustability because this is the first build and I'm bound to miss something first time around.

 

I saw a trail or enduro bike at the Cycle Tour bike expo that was super skinny with long travel, killer head angle and narrow aggressive tyres. It looked light enough to climb like a pro and enough travel to clear some gaps.  When I turned to look for it again it was missing. I wish I got the name of it.  So I think this the direction I am probably going to end up going.....skinny, 140-160 long travel, 1x10/11, narrow aggressive tyres and a steep-ish head angle.... I'm still deciding whether to go 650b or stay 26er for life, but if the tyres are going to be 2.0/2.1 then the 650 will have more traction.

Posted

I've just read through the www.peterverdone.com/?p=7310 page that Popcorn skollie pm'd me. Its a revelation for anyone wanting to build a bike. He mentions that there are so many good bikes out there to buy and that are built way better then I could or even anyone attempting to build a bike,BUT.....if you are like me (I cant control myself trying to make my own version of whatever) or your are really passionate about wanting to build a bike then go ahead.

 

It will be expensive, you'll probably make a few  duds, but if you persist then you might hit a sweet spot.  I'm going to take his advice and just measure up all the bikes I like and draw them in CAD and analyze the crap out of it till I feel its ready> to infinity and beyond>>>>

Posted

Hi Burner, I have been plotting along the same lines of using a cnc machine and a 3d printer to build a carbon fiber frame for about two years, but my build has not gotten off the ground, because of a student budget and all that. But I started working this year and I am now in the process of building a cnc machine ( 3-axis for now) and then I will start mine as well. I have quite a bit of experience with carbon fiber, due to my final year project and have also played around on a CAD program to design various frames. I really like the direction you are heading in and I will be following this thread closely.

 

I would like to recommend http://www.bikechecker.com (it's $25), if you want to play with the suspension design. This simulation program can give real insight into the handling of the bike if you first analyze a bike that you know and and like and then tweak the design and compare the results.

Posted

Hi Burner, I have been plotting along the same lines of using a cnc machine and a 3d printer to build a carbon fiber frame for about two years, but my build has not gotten off the ground, because of a student budget and all that. But I started working this year and I am now in the process of building a cnc machine ( 3-axis for now) and then I will start mine as well. I have quite a bit of experience with carbon fiber, due to my final year project and have also played around on a CAD program to design various frames. I really like the direction you are heading in and I will be following this thread closely.

 

I would like to recommend http://www.bikechecker.com (it's $25), if you want to play with the suspension design. This simulation program can give real insight into the handling of the bike if you first analyze a bike that you know and and like and then tweak the design and compare the results.

H Werner. I'm so glad to find like minded folk on this forum. I have lots of experience building and working with cnc machines if you need assistance. I remember the days of a student budget, i feel for you ;)

 

I have played around with a Linkage demo for about 2yrs....lightly...think its time to invest in it. I'm still not sure about whether or not to use carbon, like on of the posters mentioned earlier, special steel is a good option and it will be quite unique. The website http://www.peterverdone.com/?p=7310 just blew my mind and made me consider a whole range of factors.

 

I look forward to seeing your progress too

Posted

Also using Rhino 3D. I've been using it since 1.0, but am still on 3.0 now. I can't justify the cash to upgrade further.

 

I am planning on using Chromoly for the frame, but probably Aluminium for the linkages. It allows my to go thicker for stiffness and for bearing cavities.

 

All tubing is going to come from Nova. At this point it looks like around $200 worth.

Posted

Also using Rhino 3D. I've been using it since 1.0, but am still on 3.0 now. I can't justify the cash to upgrade further.

 

I am planning on using Chromoly for the frame, but probably Aluminium for the linkages. It allows my to go thicker for stiffness and for bearing cavities.

 

All tubing is going to come from Nova. At this point it looks like around $200 worth.

Version 3.0 is pretty good with plugins loaded. I must check the net for more chromoly buids....I wonder what the completed frame weights are.

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