Jimmy 2.0

for the price of a pedal based Power meter my suggestion is get a 2nd hand crank base power meter like a xcadey and just put in the correct BB for it. Pedal power meters are a bit over priced. the only nice thing about them is that they are ease to swap from bike to bike

People always get sponsorship wrong, its not "here's our money go and race". A sports team is technically a marketing company. You wear our branding, be seen using our products, you get the kids hyped up, attend brand activations, post on social media about the company and so on. Yes there are passion stories out there but they never last.

There are a handful of SA/African riders that have a sponsorship deal that don't have rich parents. look at some of the riders at Pump for Peace, there are are also a few white riders. Two of them I know on a personal basis one performed well at a junior level that got picked up from a athlete scout, the other has recently got sponsored by the same team who got spotted by a coach.

I would be careful of these with carbon shoes and moldable soles

Shimano xt pedals will last you a lifetime when serviced regularly. Pair rhatvwith the new shimano shoes and you wont "LOOK" back

as well as a broken collar bone from w2w. both situations he had mild concussion

Would love an android version. Will be cool if you can link a bike to multiple accounts. I run a bike shop and will be lekker to see what settings my client has or i update his settings when I do a suspension service. Maybe even a way to save a diagram of his bike fit. Just a suggestion. You're onto something here 😎🤟🏼

Any of the Shimano cranks or if you want a power meter the Power2Max N2

Only exception is if you're running tire inserts rather pay someone to suffer with that🤣

As mentioned above the green Crowbar, ive got a set in my bicycle shop that ive been using for a good 5 years now. Avoid metal tire levers as they do damage the rim. The scratch alu rims very easily and there is a risk of cracking carbon. Most of the struggle is down to not having the right technique. When taking the tire off you want to first push the entire bead to the deep grove in the center of the rim on both sides then use the tire lever to take off. When installing do the same in reverse. Having the bead in the center gives you alot more room to play with. If you master thos technique you actually dont need tire levers most the time regardless of ots tubed or tubeless for road or mtb.

Quick one have you taken a wheel dishing tool and double checked that the rim is sitting center of the hub? It is a common thing that a wheel builder forgets

that screw is the bleed port for your brakes. i suggest take it to your bike shop and ask if they have one lying around, maybe ask them to bleed the brakes as you might of lost a bit of oil.

A good carbon option are the avalanch roams

My build. I normaly run a large frame but after taking measurements from my other bikes i had to go down to a med to frame and even a 50mm stem for the drop bar setup to be comfortable

2.2 tires will be an easy fit. 2.35 will be iffy depending on the year model. If you're going for a drop bar build you might want to go down a frame size like I did as where your hands will be on the hoods on a drop bar is about an extra 10 to 15cm more forward than on a flat bar. Chainring wise the older frames that ran 3by get good clearance but you won't get them in boost axel spacing. You can run a 0mm offset but your chainline might be too pushed out and cause chain to drop.