Jimmy 2.0

for the price of a pedal based Power meter my suggestion is get a 2nd hand crank base power meter like a xcadey and just put in the correct BB for it. Pedal power meters are a bit over priced. the only nice thing about them is that they are ease to swap from bike to bike

People always get sponsorship wrong, its not "here's our money go and race". A sports team is technically a marketing company. You wear our branding, be seen using our products, you get the kids hyped up, attend brand activations, post on social media about the company and so on. Yes there are passion stories out there but they never last.

There are a handful of SA/African riders that have a sponsorship deal that don't have rich parents. look at some of the riders at Pump for Peace, there are are also a few white riders. Two of them I know on a personal basis one performed well at a junior level that got picked up from a athlete scout, the other has recently got sponsored by the same team who got spotted by a coach.

I would be careful of these with carbon shoes and moldable soles

Shimano xt pedals will last you a lifetime when serviced regularly. Pair rhatvwith the new shimano shoes and you wont "LOOK" back

as well as a broken collar bone from w2w. both situations he had mild concussion

Would love an android version. Will be cool if you can link a bike to multiple accounts. I run a bike shop and will be lekker to see what settings my client has or i update his settings when I do a suspension service. Maybe even a way to save a diagram of his bike fit. Just a suggestion. You're onto something here 😎🤟🏼

Any of the Shimano cranks or if you want a power meter the Power2Max N2

Only exception is if you're running tire inserts rather pay someone to suffer with that🤣

As mentioned above the green Crowbar, ive got a set in my bicycle shop that ive been using for a good 5 years now. Avoid metal tire levers as they do damage the rim. The scratch alu rims very easily and there is a risk of cracking carbon. Most of the struggle is down to not having the right technique. When taking the tire off you want to first push the entire bead to the deep grove in the center of the rim on both sides then use the tire lever to take off. When installing do the same in reverse. Having the bead in the center gives you alot more room to play with. If you master thos technique you actually dont need tire levers most the time regardless of ots tubed or tubeless for road or mtb.

Quick one have you taken a wheel dishing tool and double checked that the rim is sitting center of the hub? It is a common thing that a wheel builder forgets

that screw is the bleed port for your brakes. i suggest take it to your bike shop and ask if they have one lying around, maybe ask them to bleed the brakes as you might of lost a bit of oil.

A good carbon option are the avalanch roams

My build. I normaly run a large frame but after taking measurements from my other bikes i had to go down to a med to frame and even a 50mm stem for the drop bar setup to be comfortable

2.2 tires will be an easy fit. 2.35 will be iffy depending on the year model. If you're going for a drop bar build you might want to go down a frame size like I did as where your hands will be on the hoods on a drop bar is about an extra 10 to 15cm more forward than on a flat bar. Chainring wise the older frames that ran 3by get good clearance but you won't get them in boost axel spacing. You can run a 0mm offset but your chainline might be too pushed out and cause chain to drop.

Download an app called true caller and search the number. If it doesn't recognize the number then it's a burner number

Nothing wrong with them. More personal taste. Dont over think it and just send it!

shimano is the best bang for buck in my opinion. just look at the price you pay for shimano xt cassette and chain vs sram

Shimano and sram are different but if he sticks with shimano he doesn't have to change

Comes to roughly 2/3 the price

There is no difference between shimano 105 mechanical and di2 brake calipers, cranks, chain and cassette.

I do it for my clients on the regular. if you're running 105 12speed mechanical all you need is Di2 shifters, derailleurs, Battery, charger and 2 Di2 wires to connect the derailleurs to the batter. if the cassette and chain are worn i suggest you replace but otherwise everything else is compatible.

because you already have Shimano 105 on your bike i suggest getting shimano di2 as you can use your current brakes, cassette, chain and crankset. if you go sram you'll have to change freehub body and it is recommended to change everything else with it.

if you could rather bring your mtb, knysna pretty much only have 2 out and back routs and both of them are on the N2

Talking from a bicycle workshop/Service center perspective. We run a workshop only setup, we don't sell bikes only items and parts related to servicing and bike upgrades. From past experiences at other shops there is often a communication barrier between the salesman that take your bike in and the mechanic that services your bike, you have the customer giving his description of what's wrong to the guy at the front who then tries to describe the same thing to workshop manager and then to the mechanic. this leaves room for error, with us the you will be speaking to the available mechanic who will be working on your bike, if there isn't one available it gets booked in and he will phone you just before getting started with the bike. Next problem that often occurs is the customer using incorrect terminology in his descriptions not cause he's stupid its just that he doesn't know, the shop then needs to decipher what they actually mean. Now my favourite one the ones that come in and say "I only ever support you" or comes in on a friday afternoon wanting the job done in the next hours so that they can ride tomorrow morning and put pressure on the workshop to get it right. So how do you find the best mechanic? Easy! Listen to your riding friends that have been around, take advice from the right people. Start by 1st being lekker! Everyone likes helping out a good customer. Support your local bike shop. Create a relationship as latter on down the line when you need a favour they've got you. A bikeshop should warranty their work! Not 100% happy with your gears? Give them a call and ask if they can just have another look. This they should do ant no labour charge but if a part is needed then they should charge for the part. Be honest, don't tell us that the bike was last with us 2 months ago then we get the bike and see that something was done at another shop a month ago. We are mechanic's bikes can tell us a lot about their owner. Don't like the service youre getting? Quietly move on to the next shop.