Tubeless Conversion

[Runbikeswim]

Cajees in Bedfordview told me R1800 to convert my 29er. Johnsons in Edenvale and Cycleworks in Boksberg said around R1,500. Both prices included new tyres.

 

This month is the month I go tubeless. I have tyre liners and tubes with slime, and still been halted in my tracks with 3 punctures in the last month. Over it now.

5 Min on YouTube and its done.

all you need is slime ( maybe R100) 2 valves ( just cut them out of the old tubes or R100 for 2 ), Duck / Gorilla tape ( R30 at a hardware store, Glitter to add to sealant ( R5 or take some of your kids ) It takes maybe 30 min and will save you lots of money you can use on other bike stuff.

[Davey_Jones]

Yeah I found that the 1" roll of gorilla tape was the perfect size for sealing the rimm. I think it was R60 at builders.

[JJDT]

The upside of DIY is that full bottle of sealant will last longer. The first 1/2 will be used on the conversion. The second 1/2 will be used to top up the sealant every year. If you go to LBS you do not get the sealant. You will have to buy another bottle for topping up purposes works out even more expensive.

 

This is how I learnt to do a tubeless conversion. Read what all the Hubbers say, watch some Youtube vids.

 

My first time I used the Stans Kit. Second bike left over rim tape from 1st conversion and sealant + tubeless valves. Third conversion duct tape, tubeless valves and sealant. Latest conversion Gorilla tape + parts.

 

The same goes with some other repairs read, watch and do.

[brucem76]

The running lower pressure thing only seems to count if you are a lightweight rider.

Mine burp at anything less than 1.8bar and I weigh 88kg's that is with all of the different tyres I have tried.

Interesting, I'm 125kg, running tubeless on non-UST wheels, going at 1.8bar fine...

[Jinga]

The basics (if your rims are not tubeless with tape inside already) that you need either stans yellow tape or gorilla tape, to seal off the spoke holes on the inside of the rim.

 

Secondly you need tubeless valves with a core that can be removed and the rubber o-ring that seals the valve hole.

 

And then you need proper tubeless tyres, like Schwalbe's snakeskin versions.

 

And some sealant like Stans.

 

I did the conversion myself, but it was a mission to get the tyres seated, had to install a tube 1st, inflate it, then de-bead one side of the tyre, remove the tube and use soapy water to get it to seat again. A compressor will make it all easier.

Tubeless the way to go.

Did exactly the same.

Touch wood a year later not one puncture.

Just topped up 50ml in each wheel and sort for another year.

[Rocket-Boy]

Interesting, I'm 125kg, running tubeless on non-UST wheels, going at 1.8bar fine...

Mine was fine for many rides too, unfortunately it decided to burp in a heavy corner at speed last time.

[brucem76]

Mine was fine for many rides too, unfortunately it decided to burp in a heavy corner at speed last time.

Been rolling fine for 4 months, hopefully I'll avoid any high speed cornering burps!

[BenReaper]

I managed to screw up my home conversion,found out afterwards that I should have removed the old rim tape before applying the tubeless rimtape.....[emoji15]

[Runbikeswim]

I managed to screw up my home conversion,found out afterwards that I should have removed the old rim tape before applying the tubeless rimtape.....[emoji15]

I always leave that tape... Never had any issues

[BenReaper]

I always leave that tape... Never had any issues

Dont know what I did wrong,but its fixed now by my LBS,at no extra cost and removing the liner was all they did diferently,they let me watch while they redid it.

[BSG]

Not sure to be honest. Never got fine details. Just asked for a ballpark so I knew how to budget.

 

Was at Cyclelab on Sat and saw they had quite a few DIY tubeless options. Too confusing though and ended up not getting anything. Wouldn't mind doing it myself if there was a clear how to and what to get.

I've got Maxxis Ardent front, Crossmark rear. I got a new Merida with Jalco rims (non tubeless rims) some sealant (Stanz or whatever one you like) at least 100ml per 29er tyre, tubeless valve and duct tape or better gorilla tape which I couldn't find, and I did the conversion myself and it seals 100%. Just remember to take the original rimtape off and put double layer of duct/gorilla tape for peace of mind. For extra piece of mind, go over the start point at least a 100 mm or so. To seat the tires use compressor or BIG Co2 cannisters.